7/7 Steering Tutorial

[cyborgzero]

okay, here it is:



This shows where the inline shrinkwrapped resistors were removed from.. Get rid of these, they are complete BS and don't help anything, and, as a matter of fact, tend to muddy the water concerning sensitivity of the encoder..



This shows how your encoder on the car should be routed.. This will allow you to get full sensitivity and travel from your encoder and steering rack...


Also, too, CUT that stupid steering rack so it is STRAIGHT ACROSS to allow FULL RANGE or you won't be happy at all...

This will allow very sharp turning and allow the use of nearly the entire steering travel... This will be improved even more soon, so watch this spot..

This method gave me SEVEN full steps left, and SEVEN full steps right and MUCH tighter steering, more akin to what a REAL cars steering range is....

You will like it believe me.

[clxfiles]

So your saying when I go buy an SE at Radio shack, all I have to do is this mod and I will have good propo steering? Do I need to do the no jitter mod and the other one you mentioned about the bias resistors?
The diodes... Are they a certain measurement? I don't know much about it but do I just go to RS and say give any ol diode? Thanks, this looks like a cool mod and hopefully it helps my driving.

[cyborgzero]

Yepp.. Just forget the diodes for now though, we got another mod that will give it a deadband so that the car will automatically center to the same step everytime and make it less twitchy.

Just make yours look like it looks in the two pics.. Its all the car right now..

You also might have to skip a few teeth on the rack and recenter the steering rack and mess with the controller steering fine tuning a bit, but yeah, thats all you gotta do.

Then, once you get the car squared away and have 7/7 propo, then you will be ready to install the deadband mod for the controller.

We expect the deadband controller mod to make the car lose at least 1 step of propo, maybe 2 just right in the middle, but its not a big deal. We are still working on the controller mod.

We will post the deadband mod here as soon as we are done with it so do the CAR FIRST, then get ready for the next mod that will make your car perfect.


Rob

[clxfiles]

OK, so the top pic has the three wire setup and you say to cut the resistors out. I can do that. But, what about the 2 wire setup and the 3 wire setup that has the green wire connect to a spot on the PCB on the bottom rt corner if you look at your top pic? Check out the 2nd pic on URL=http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16461&pagenumber=1]this[/url] thread. Let me know what you think

[clxfiles]

Why can't I get that link right.

http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthr...1&pagenumber=1

Just use this URL

[cyborgzero]

Well, for now, we only have it spec'd for that board..

I have the other two boards and I have to take a look at them to see how to get it to work with them..

Rob

[clxfiles]

cool.... You're the man!!! On an off note, did you ever perfect the MOSFET mod?

Do you know a way to tell the 3 different boards? Is it as easy as couning wires and where the green wire connects? Or is there a different way?

[ugh]

Can you give a better explanation of this mod? I'm still kind of sketchy on how to do this mod.and could u show some more pictures please? Thanks.

[cyborgzero]

Originally posted by clxfiles
cool.... You're the man!!! On an off note, did you ever perfect the MOSFET mod?

Do you know a way to tell the 3 different boards? Is it as easy as couning wires and where the green wire connects? Or is there a different way?

YA, i got the mosfet mod working very well.. I will show its awesome power to you sometime..

But lets just say this: with the NOS motor and red gears, it pulls up a 30 degree incline with the wheels spinning the whole time.

Ill take a vid of it when I get a chance...

Rob

[potentiality]

heh, I suppose that wire curving around to the other side of the pcb is your little addition for the full on fets?

[cyborgzero]

Yeah, actually it is...

You have to reroute the FWD FETS of the H-bridge and drive the bottom FWD fet off of the input on the top REV fet.. That makes it go from just being pulsed to being forced on at full gate voltage.

There essentially then is no resistance on the bottom FWD fet, and very little on the top and it makes the car scream.

Rob

[clxfiles]

Do you have a diagram or tutorial or post somewhere??? I would like to see how that works, I probably could never do it cuz I'm not that good with an iron but I like checking out diagrams and such to see the neat ways people figure out to divert power. Kinda like watching Star Trek when they wanna divert power from the main dilithium chamber to the rear shields. Don't know how it's done but it sounds cool....lol Did I just give away that I'm a Star Trek NERD!!!

[cyborgzero]

well here is the problem with the dead band on the controller:

It looks like the controller steering pot is being used to not only change a voltage level, but it also looks like its being used to do a phase shift...

Now, I haven't figured out whats going on, if the uP is using the phase shift as the steering information OR using the voltage level change...

More work will be required.

Rob

[cyborgzero]

This is the pic of the top..The red arrow points to a resistor that must be removed. That MUST be removed to properly do the ZZ mosfet power bypass mod.

the resistor said "750". Take it off there, then connect the blue wire directly to the transistor as shown.



This is the bottom... Connect the blue wire here.. do not remove any resistors...


This will get you powerslide and drift heaven.

Rob

[clxfiles]

Cyborg - I don't think I've seen that bypass mod. Do you have some directions? Is it the posted mosfet mod plus taking out that resistor then running that blue wire from one spot to another?