
04-21-2003, 09:07 PM
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Holy Crap!
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 427
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My Crude Internal Dual Cell 350z
Well, I just finished my internal dual cell 350z and I am vey pleased. I LOVE it! I modified the controller to charge the car directly from the batteries, so I didn't have to make a seperate charger. Here's my setup: Silver 49mhz ZZ 350z, gold rims, slicks in front, all season in back, dual 100mah cells, 8.25:1 gears, and 2.8 racing motor. Here are some pics:
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I am very stupid when it comes to anything concerning tiny radio control cars, but at school it is a different story (I know none of you care what my life is like at school). Please do not criticize me for being idiotic and asking stupid questions that I should know. I have no skills when it comes to modding and driving Microsizers and other micro radio control cars. Please help me to raise my self-esteem. I don't handle criticizm well and when I do, I usually go cry into a pillow and scream and break things. In short, be nice to me (it may be hard though through all of my annoyance). Thanks pal!
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04-21-2003, 09:10 PM
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Holy Crap!
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 427
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Internals
__________________
I am very stupid when it comes to anything concerning tiny radio control cars, but at school it is a different story (I know none of you care what my life is like at school). Please do not criticize me for being idiotic and asking stupid questions that I should know. I have no skills when it comes to modding and driving Microsizers and other micro radio control cars. Please help me to raise my self-esteem. I don't handle criticizm well and when I do, I usually go cry into a pillow and scream and break things. In short, be nice to me (it may be hard though through all of my annoyance). Thanks pal!
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04-21-2003, 11:13 PM
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I really should change my title...
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 923
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NICE CAR!!!!! That beats my Porsche 911!!!
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04-21-2003, 11:16 PM
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I really should change my title...
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 923
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I can see you used tape to handle your batteries instead of soldering(please tell me how that is pronounced, SAW-DER-ING or SOLE-DER-ING)...wise choice! I like the choice of tires, all those I prefer all-season in the back for a good grip and factory in the front for better turning...
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04-21-2003, 11:26 PM
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Epoch's R Bett'R
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 652
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It's pronounced SAW-DER-ING. Hey, what exactly is a 2.8 "racing" motor? Is it different than say a 2.8 get your butt kicked motor? Or how 'bout a 2.8 "if only it were faster" motor?
LOL Just kidding. I like the Z car. I had one in a Bit that was a dual cell, but I tore it apart to use the PCB in my 4 cell Zip Zap Honda Civic, so it could be a 2 speed.
P.S.
If you ever go beyond 2cells, you will appreciate a good set of really wide drag slicks. The Zap tires are okay, but on a tile or hard wood floor with 3 cells they sucked on the back. I got an LXX AM and it came with wide squishy back tires that gripped great. You just lick your fingers and wipe them once and do a drag race run. I use the treaded Zap tires on front, though. The Zap slicks are too skinny for drag racing, and the treaded tires are fine for 2 cells and lower.
Last edited by chelboed; 04-21-2003 at 11:31 PM.
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04-21-2003, 11:33 PM
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How do you mod the controller to charge it w/out using extra batteries & keep the remote working?
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04-21-2003, 11:38 PM
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Epoch's R Bett'R
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 652
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You cut the wires to the charging dock and run 2 wires directly from the dock to the battery pack within the charger. Don't cut the wires that go from the pack to the circuit board, though. This mod is fine until you find out that the AAA's in the Tx don't last long and you go through them fast and start losing reception in your transmitter because you don't have much juice anymore.
By the way, your car will run faster it you make a 4AA charger. You will only have to charge it for like 1.5 minutes for a noticeably faster car. 2AAA's don't provide a good enough charge for the 2cell cars. ( that is unless you leave the car on the dock for like a week to get a full charge)
I usually use 2AA's per cell in my car. My 4cell Zap uses 8AA's.
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04-22-2003, 12:00 AM
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Holy Crap!
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 427
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Quote:
Originally posted by charliebrown
I can see you used tape to handle your batteries instead of soldering
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Actually, I did solder the wires together, I just used tape to help keep the wires soldered to the battery. I also used the tape as an insulator.
And chelboed, the 2.8 is the motor that comes in the new performance booster, and it is called the racing motor. Oh and for that seperate charger, do you think that you could make a list of RS products to make a seperate charger? Thanks!
__________________
I am very stupid when it comes to anything concerning tiny radio control cars, but at school it is a different story (I know none of you care what my life is like at school). Please do not criticize me for being idiotic and asking stupid questions that I should know. I have no skills when it comes to modding and driving Microsizers and other micro radio control cars. Please help me to raise my self-esteem. I don't handle criticizm well and when I do, I usually go cry into a pillow and scream and break things. In short, be nice to me (it may be hard though through all of my annoyance). Thanks pal!
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04-22-2003, 12:40 AM
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Epoch's R Bett'R
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 652
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Okay, you can make a charger with 4AA's to charge your 2cell car, or you can make a switchable one to charge your 2cell car and your single cell car. Benefit? You don't run the batts down on your transmitter.
If you want a 4AA charger only, all you need is the 4AA holder and your charging dock. I use a dock from a clone or Bit char-g usually so I don't have to take the one out of my transmitter. If you don't have a clone or char-g, just get some of that velcro with a sticky back and stick to the back of your transmitter. Then all you have to do is stick the 4AA pack to the back of the transmitter with velcro so you can remove it if need be. Then just drill a small hole in the top or back of the transmitter and run the wires to your dock. Piece of cake!
If you want a 4AA / 2 AA charger to do both cars, just buy the enclosure and drill a hole in the top of the lid. Install a switch to switch between the 2pak or the 4pak. wire them through the switch to your dock and viola!
If you use a char-g or clone dock you will have to grind down the protrusion in the middle so the Zap can fit on it. Then you just hot glue it to the top of the enclosure, or the 4AA pak. (depending on the charger you make)
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04-22-2003, 12:42 AM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: no
Posts: 54
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ugh (funny name)  ,
What i used for my seperate charger (for my z-car) was a charging terminal from ANOTHER broken z car controller. Overall with my seperate charger experiences i think you can use just about any amount of voltage for charging the car's cell(s). I once used a 9v battery (and no it did not blow the car up or the battery) and it charged fine...just very VERY quickly  .
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04-22-2003, 01:29 AM
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Epoch's R Bett'R
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 652
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I agree, but if you charge 2cells with 9volts, it will run shorter than if you charge it with 6 volts, because you can leave it on charge for 1.5 minutes or so. It get's fuller somehow.
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