Mini-X Motor Mod results

binaryterror · #1 04-01-2003, 10:50 PM

Well I finally had the time to do some solid testing of all the mods i currently run on my Mini-X.

MODS
PN-racing carbon brushes
Squat Motor Can with Ball Bearings and Neo Magnets
Blue PETG Upper Chassis Support (custom made)
Foam Bumper
6 Cell battery pack

Set up
Soft Springs all the way around
Stock tires with street type grooves
Stock diffs (35T i think...)
Stock Version 2.0 Electronics

Results
These added items (mainly the can, can bearings, neo mags, and carbon brushes) make the motor hum along much smoother. Also i timed the heats...what normally took me 3 minutes, basically hold finger on motor for 3 seconds before super hot, not takes upward of 15 minutes. I think the only next step is to lighten the chassis for even more possible speed...i wish i had access to a speed gun. To be honest i think these improvements added about 15-25% more speed.

[i]Looking forward to a possible race/test with tinyrc at a tennis court someday...bring the Mini-Z's...this X is hungry...

Heres some pics for fun....

super_micro · #2 04-02-2003, 11:27 PM

you can use a tread mill if you want to test speed

and very nice car. You should also try that FET stacking thing. If your motor isnt running to hot already

#3 04-03-2003, 07:32 PM

Hey Binaryterror,
How much would it take for you to build me a motor like yours?
I REALLY want one of those. or just tell me where to get the parts to mod my motor?

binaryterror · #4 04-04-2003, 06:57 AM

ksavage:

Click on the links in my description of modified parts.

you just have to buy the brushes and squat can from miniz-racer.com. Thats all i have done. It makes the motor more smooth and the temperatures are definately MUCH cooler.

very nice so far...Tiny you should bring those parts options over here for use with the Mini-X!!!!!

Mondo · #5 04-07-2003, 06:26 PM

Binaryterror,

That's a positive result. I have built and tested my motor outside of the car. I still have to add capacitors and motor wires before I fit it.

Question:

Did you fit the bearings on both ends of the can? If so, what's the result on fitting it.

You may remember we discussed this briefly before, as I commented on how much slop there is on the standard motor.
I assumed this "slop" was there for a purpose. Perhaps it's just bad manufacturing or overkill tolerances..

Some feedback on this would be appreicated.

binaryterror · #6 04-07-2003, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mondo
Did you fit the bearings on both ends of the can? If so, what's the result on fitting it.

You may remember we discussed this briefly before, as I commented on how much slop there is on the standard motor.
I assumed this "slop" was there for a purpose. Perhaps it's just bad manufacturing or overkill tolerances..

Some feedback on this would be appreicated.

Mondo,

Yes I did place both bearings in the motor. I understand what you are saying about the slop being used to manufacturing/accident tolerances, but i have a strong blue "upper deck" piece, i made and added that makes the chassis flex _MUCH_ less than stock.

The motor runs with out any noticable binding or loss
of RPM with the 2 bearings in the can and the one on the support shaft.

With the recent snow (i know April and SNOW?) i haven't run it in about 3 days, but i plan to put the motor through some more testing on the tennis courts. I'll keep you fellow X fans abreast of anything that happens.

3series takumi · #7 04-10-2003, 01:00 AM

can you post pictures of just your upper deck i would love to see that. i think i need that cause my motor stalls if the chassis is flexed.

binaryterror · #8 04-10-2003, 07:09 AM

Here you go...i plan to make myself a new one eventually, i might make a couple spares. I'll let you guys know if i do.

Here is a pic in car:

Here is the side of it...thickness is 1/8" with a small narrow where it connects to the front suspension (hard to see).

Here it is...it is made from 1/8" thick flouro blue PETG. PETG is very strong while still lighter than lexan and acrylics. You could make it from G-10 fiberglass (which i have some of...i might try that too...)

johnrtse · #9 04-13-2003, 05:43 PM

I finally had a chance to REALLY run my MiniX and MiniZ's today at the local elementary school's parking lot!

I installed a bearing in my X's motor can only (not the front) and Neo magnets. I also lubed the diff's with Associated lube as per IRC's recommendations.

The top speed is just a hair less than my MiniZ with X-Speed, ball diff, alloy stuff, etc. Handling is far superior than ALL of my MiniZ's, but my X will spin out if I crank it all the way right, but not left (???).

While the heat factor is definately lower than before, the motor still gets plenty hot. The Neo magnets picked up a TON of metallic junk off the parking lot!

Now all I have to do is find some MiniX and MiniZ racers to race with in my area

3series takumi · #10 04-13-2003, 05:49 PM

my X's spin out goin right too!! what causes it. does anyone know how to fix it.

binaryterror · #11 04-13-2003, 06:16 PM

I think this maybe caused by the un-equal lengths of plastic on the steering thing. The servo probably pulls and thus bends the steering bar when it is CRANKED hard left, thus eliminating the spin out. When you turn right the servo doesnt have much bar to stress thus it having a better turn to the right.

This can be adjusted with the EPA on the better controllers.

3series takumi · #12 04-13-2003, 06:20 PM

i have my own tie rod and it does same thing

binaryterror · #13 04-14-2003, 07:34 AM

It might be the placement of the servo and the way the steering is set up to work.

Someone needs to play with the sterring for sure.

Right now i am working more on cleaning my X and also waiting for my newest RC member...the XTM X-Factor !!!

My next need/want for the Mini-X is a better controller (which i should soon have, might have to replace the stock Rx though. But i do have a hitec shredder which is and was the smallest car RC Rx.

Guys...let me see pics of what you guys have done...

PS. I found that the upper deck is best made from the G10. I need to make some changes to my CAD work and I'll cut a couple out. Email me if you guys are interested (Cheap$$). jscobie@REMOVETHISwideopenwest.com

Dont forget to remove the REMOVETHIS from my email.

super_micro · #14 04-16-2003, 05:35 PM

ah...................yeah. that makes sense or it could be just that the electronics aren't calibrated properly.

deviant · #15 04-27-2003, 10:16 PM

so if someone was making their own chassis or heavily modding the existing one, you could place the motor width wise on the chassis, so that the "gyroscopic recession" wasn't runing to the right it would be running towards the front or back of the car,
although this would cause the same problem that plauges (spelling?) all motor mods = lose of 4WD...

unless you use a shaft drive system to both difs...

which is difficult...

oh yeah and the space factor...