Tomy motors are not coreless

[crazydave]

Forgive me if this has been brought up before, but I've never seen it anywhere.

My 3.2 died due to endbell failure. I went rob the endbell from a 1.6, and was surprized to discover a metal armature. I took a 1.0 apart too, and it also had an armature. Check it out.



BTW, My endbell transplant was successful. If anything it runs faster now, probably since I cleaned the commuter, but it now runs backwards. Oh well, it wasn't too hard to get used to. Easier to get used to than a slow motor, and now I have a cheater 1.0. . As long as no one notices I'm driving backwards.

Dave

[kwikbb]

I think it was mentioned before, but nonetheless it's interesting! Congrats on the transplant. Do you know why it now runs backwards or was it an unexplained occurance?

Maybe you could do a tutorial on the dismantelling process, things to be careful of, precautions to take before diving in to it and re-assembly... you know stuff like that. Just an idea. *shrug

Thanks for the info though!

[dustn]

You have the timing 180degrees off. turn the endbell around 180 and it will run the right way.

[crazydave]

dustn, you are absolutely correct. I had this same problem everytime I put my 1/10th modified motors back together. I feel silly for not realizing that. Thanks

kwikbb, taking the motor apart, and putting it back together is easier than you would think. I just gripped the endbell with the tip of my needlenose pliers. It doesn't want to pull straight off, but if you pull at an angle one side will start, then you can rock it off. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE THE SMALL METAL CLIP THAT ATTACHES THE CAN TO THE BRUSH. I emphasize that, because it's a tiny booger, and I lost it from my 1.6. When I went to put it together, I was expecting to have to spread the brushes to get past the commuter, but the endbell just slipped right on, and then I put the armature back in the can, and smashed the endball in place. Simple if that tiny little clip stays in place. Hope that helps.

On a side note. Adjusting the timing on a 1/10 scale motor will produce more speed, or power. Stock motors are set at 20 degrees, and modifieds are adjustable. I usually ran mine at about 4 degrees. So if rotating the end bell 180 degrees will reverse polarity on these small motors, then rotating the end bell just slightly might give you more speed (or less). Maybe part of the reason my motor is faster now. If you want to preserve the original performance of your motor I might suggest scratching a line into the endbell and motor can, before you take it apart, so you have a starting point to work off of.

Dave

[kwikbb]

crazydave; That's awesome! Thanks for the little tutorial.

[crazydave]

Total success, it is now running fowards.

As an added bonus, after I got running foward, I turn the endbell a couple of degrees to test my timing theory, and I think it works. I'll do more researcg, and post my results this weekend.

kwikbb, no prob

Dave

[Nathan]

Are the armatures big enough to wind without difficulty?

[crazydave]

It's pretty small. Only about 1/8 inch wide. What would be more feasible, would be to just pull some winds off, and then resolder the end. I'm assuming your goal is more speed.

Less winds=less resistance=higher current draw=more speed.

Dave

[t-squared]

To get more torque and lower RPM and horsepower, put more turns of wire on the armature. Your motor will then draw fewer Amps, and therefore produce less total horsepower. A motor with more turns will develop more torque per Amp, but it will draw fewer Amps, so it is hard to predict exactly how much torque or RPM it will develop after the change.

To get more horsepower you should use fewer turns of a larger gauge wire. This will reduce the terminal resistance of the motor, and increase the RPM. The motor will develop more horsepower, but it will be at a less manageable RPM.

http://www.robotbooks.com/motor-tips.htm