Mini-x tech questions

Bravin Neff · #1 12-09-2002, 11:37 PM

No one replied to my questions from my earlier thread, so I'm reposting them here. That last thread was pretty long-winded, so I wouldn't blame anyone for failing to miss the fact I actually asked questions at the end!

1. I could not get the esc to setup properly, and I tried dozens of times. The directions claim that, after the red light stays on and the green light goes out, to pull the trigger all the way full-throttle until the green goes on and the red goes off. Then move the throttle full reverse until the motor beginss spinning in reverse. This never worked for me, and the car only seemed to run well after I turned it off and just turned it back on, without attempting to set it up. Even then, reverse never really works well (full forward works fine, but it just sputters in reverse, and very slowly). I tried every combination of throttle-channel reversing, messing with the throttle trim, and so on. I am suspecting that the radio I'm using (I'm using an AM airtronics blazer temporarily) is just not compatible with the receiver, as I notice people are having good luck with Futaba's and those Perfex ones that come with mini-z's. What do you all think? Is the red light supposed to come on during full forward throttle, which mine does, or is the green supposed to, as I would have expected? Perhaps the esc is accidentally wired backwards to the motor (I can't tell, since the motor doesn't have any marks to distinguish between + and -)?

2. After 3 batteries, I burnt out the motor. I noticed it got very hot, but just ignored it as nobody seemed to have any problem with this. There is an enormous amount of clearance between the long side of the armature and the motor's bushing, but I figured this was just sound engineering as the motor easily could bind if the alignment was not perfect (which it can't be, given the fact the shaft is so long). What do you all think about this?

Thanks for your time,
Bravin Neff

irc · #2 12-10-2002, 01:04 AM

Full throttle will show a red light, reverse will show a green light. Is the throttle trim on your transmitter set to neutral? Was it when you set the speed controll up? The motors due get hot, you should keep the motor clean and oil the bushings. Also make sure the front shaft holder is not twisted and binding the motor shaft.

Bravin Neff · #3 12-10-2002, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Is the throttle trim on your transmitter set to neutral? Was it when you set the speed controll up?

Yes and yes. Given that, do you suppose the transmitter may not be compatible with the receiver, or the crystal that came with the car? Or do you think the esc is flawed?

Quote:

The motors due get hot, you should keep the motor clean and oil the bushings. Also make sure the front shaft holder is not twisted and binding the motor shaft.

I didn't oil the bushings, nor did I check the front shaft rest/mount for binding. But I only ran the car with three battery charges, which seems premature to me. But I think it's most probably due to the fact I was running the car on a semi-deep shaggy carpet, where the bottom of the chassis was constantly rubbing and forcing the motor to work harder. That thing got so hot that it probably would have caused a first degree burn had I not released my figer less than a second after I touched it!

Anyway, thanks for the response.

Regards,
Bravin Neff

irc · #4 12-10-2002, 08:42 PM

HUM, The carpet thing would aid in motor heat. IM not sure about the TX causing a slow reverse.

dgilpin · #5 12-10-2002, 10:25 PM

I burned out my first motor on carpet, too. Good thing they are only $3.00!

Did you loosen and lube the diffs?

I just put in a motor modified with super magnets and two ball bearings. If it ever stops raining I'll test it out and let you know how it behaves.

e_lm_70 · #6 12-11-2002, 05:41 AM

Who knows how to remove the weels ?

I have tried out with the Mini-Z tire tool but no way !

Is possible to adjust the high of the suspension, like in the Epoch?

Just tested my Mini-X for few minutes ... and I see that the fron brace from the diff to the weel can easily get out of his place and/or get in a crapping stopping position !

e_lm_70

dgilpin · #7 12-11-2002, 10:18 AM

Wheel nuts take a 5.5mm hex driver, but you have to grind it down in diameter to fit (or buy the mini-x driver).

Ride height can be lowered with the screws on the bottom arms. It can be raised with taller tires, or by grinding off some of the chassis where the lower arms hit. For carpet, I like the taller foam tires for mini-z's, along with the 36 tooth diffs front and rear to help gear it back down. Sounds like it is time for you to email Tiny!

Look around for other posts about putting in a small spacer to keep the dogbones in place.

e_lm_70 · #8 12-11-2002, 10:49 AM

Danke dgilpin.

I thought the nut driver was included like in a Mini-Z.

I guess that the small bearing that I got in the package are for the weels ... but not able so far to remove them ...

I have seen these "ride height" screws only for the rear axe non for the front !

Mini-X in theory is far better then a Mini-Z, but the manual & packaging from Mini-Z are far better the Mini-X.

This make the different from a RC car for all and RC car for freaks ... and the freak market isn't so big ...

e_lm_70

P.S: Got too many mini RC in once ... Mini-X + puchi + Mini-Z stufs + Mini-Z F355 + Radi-Book + LXX .... little time to check everything . ... plus comming F201 + TB-01 Enzo + losted Bit from Japan.
I guess I need ASAP a good lub for the 2 diffs.

PP.SS: Which diff is the default on a mini-x 34T 35T or 36T ... I will guess it is the 36T ... I think I will go for a 34T plus 9T gear and 8cell + ESC FET update ... soon

binaryterror · #9 12-11-2002, 11:07 AM

I believe the 35T is the stock diff.

Also if you want to buy the diffs...remember to get 2 they are sold singularly!

dgilpin · #10 12-12-2002, 10:56 AM

Mine has the holes for a screw in the front arms, so I think you could make them adjustable, too.

e_lm_70 · #11 12-13-2002, 07:41 AM

Hi,

I have finally almost finish my Mini-X ... also added a plug for charging the cell without remove body and/or cells !

So far: I have the same problem of Bravin Neff with my Mini-Z TX !

On set up the ESC, if I do either Full forward or full reverse .. the set up is terminated ! I need to try to get close to the max in both case ... thing that isn't trivial .

With a lucky set up I can get full reverse working fine ... but I never got full forward fine ... with 3/4 forward on TX I get the red light on the ESC ... and over that I will get a stop and little reverse !

My motor get very hot too (6 cell) ... so far it is till alive !

Front Dogbone are tricky to handle ... had to put spacer inside the diff ... but is tricky to get the best size for it ... too much spacer end with less turning possibility ... too less spacer end with loosing dogbones !

Change a front right dogbone is a pain ... the servo connector need to be removed ... do it too often will end up on new fine readjustment in center steering and servo stufs .

I tried to adjust the front and rear weels suspension with 4 little screw ... First thing to screw these inside the plastic is a pain ... it look that it will soon get the plastic enogh damage for let the screw turn empty ! ... Second on the front putting the screws will limit a lot the stearing possibilty ... as result these screw sistem sucks a lot ... better to find little spacers to put below the base suspension ... at the end I removed all 4 screw in my mini-x

The Mini-X electronic doesn't look to allow smoth control like the Mini-Z ...

About top speed, stock 4wd motor + 6cell just 22km/h ... far slower then my 36km/h with Mini-Z F1 XSpeed 10T ... but accelleration is impressive fast and stable !
OK I till need to oil better diffs and other parts ! But doesn't look promising !

Not sure anymore if I can put up to 8cells ... I will kill the motor ... maybe I can go to 2WD with a nice 130 motor ...

In all I'm not very satisfy about my mini-X... only positive things it is that it cost just 77$ (all the parts w/o TX) (so 92$ with TX) ... so it is close to a Mini-Z F1 ... but I think Mini-Z F1 RTR for 95$ is a better money value !

Am I doing something wrong on my Mini-X ... what need to be done for have a fully throttle working with Mini-X rev2 ESC ?

e_lm_70

dgilpin · #12 12-13-2002, 09:14 AM

I have the 1.0, so I can't help much. With mine, I believe I had to slowly move all the way each direction to the stop and then hold it there until it beeped. I have never had to do it again! - and that is with a Mini-Z radio!

I have never driven the F1, so I can't compare. You did loosen and lube the diffs? Did you install all the bearings and lightly oil them? Also, things tend to work in a little over time. Mine runs smoother now than ever. You should consider running in the motor with no load, too.

I have been running the equivalent of 7 cells with no problem, but I did retrofit a heatsink. And now I have the Neo magnets in there. Seems to run cooler yet, but you loose a little top end, if that is what you are after.

As for suspension, I always needed more clearance, not less! I tend to run mine on concrete driveways which are pretty rough, have cracks, and have leaves and sticks to contend with. I'd like to see the F1 handle that. My Mini-Zs look like cheap toys next to it. I haven't worked on a Mini-Z (I have 5) since I got the X!

donut · #13 12-13-2002, 10:39 AM

Quote:

With a lucky set up I can get full reverse working fine ... but I never got full forward fine ... with 3/4 forward on TX I get the red light on the ESC ... and over that I will get a stop and little reverse !

Same problem here with the Mini-Z TX (Perfex). Works perfectly when using a Futaba Megatech.

What range are you guys getting with your Mini-X using the V2.0 electronics? I'm only getting about 15 feet, maybe 20. Definitely less range than I get with my Mini-Z.

binaryterror · #14 12-13-2002, 11:00 AM

I think your ESC is all radio based. My friend tried his perfex on my Mini-X and same thing you guys mention. But my POS Traxxas 27 works great anyway i do it.

Quote:

About top speed, stock 4wd motor + 6cell just 22km/h ... far slower then my 36km/h with Mini-Z F1 XSpeed 10T

Also the 10Turn Xspeed...yeah cool but remember the Mini-X is a 70T...lets compare apples to apples...A stock Mini-X will destroy a stock Mini-z (not sure about F1 though...). And we all know a stock Mini-X will destroy the entire Mini-Z series when traction is very limited!

I like the Mini-X and think it is a great value. If you think your F1 is so great (which it might be) come race me out on my ROAD...not a 3000000% smooth costly track. My friends mini-Z gets torn up and jumps alot on the road. We are of course now stuck inside, and the Mini-X always wins on our make shift track (~40% carpet, ~20% crappy linoleum, and the rest is nice smooth painted concrete) **REMEMBER his is a stock Ferrari Mini-Z (not F1, which would never make it on the carpet.)**.

I don't mean to be rude or mean, just i want to stick up for the Mini-X. It is a phenominal vehicle for the cost. Sure its not perfect, but come on...you Mini-Z lovers don't think your Mini-Z's are perfect stock, hence the $300 alot of people add to the Mini-Z's.

PLEASE DO NOT TAKE THIS AS A FLAME OR BEING MEAN IN ANYWAY...

dgilpin · #15 12-13-2002, 11:19 AM

I want to see what a 10 turn motor in the Mini-X would be like!

How fast is the F1 with a stock motor?

That radio problem really sucks! The Perfex radio made it so easy to get into the Mini-X 1.0. Did anyone try Mini-Z crystal sets instead?

Range with the 1.0 is not as good as the Mini-Z, but I would say around 40 feet (outside). But I live in a screwed-up area interference wise. Alkalines (12volts) in the TX give a little better range than NiCads (9.6volts).