removing paint off xmod

[SkylineEvo]

ok guys i'm finally going to paint my skyline. i need ta know something about removing the paint though. what is the best way to remove the paint from the body? and the safest way? or the easiest way? lol. i'm a newb at this and this will be my first time painting xmods. thanks.

[viperkilla]

Are you talking about taking off the factory paint? Personally, I'd just leave it on and just primer it and then paint it. You dont really need to take off the paint. But to answer your question nail polish remover works great. Just dont scrub too hard otherwise you will damage the plastic.

[SkylineEvo]

ic. any1 else have any suggestions?

[funkytones]

i used "Oops Multi-Porpose Remover" and it worked stellar... 10 mins in the remover and the paint just fell off...no damage to the plastic

[SkylineEvo]

where did u get it?

[magneto]

NO scuff pad!

I just finished a Kameleon paint job, so let me give you a couple tips, and so far this is the best way to do it guys.

(stay away from any dusty areas, it will be the death of your paint)

1) soap and water to remove any grime or dirt particles (when removing the factory paint, it can scratch the body

2) Testor 800 grain (red transparent color) sand paper. use this with some water, and the factory "paint" job is just a clear coat over the the red plastic body. you want to just remove that clear coat to give you some very light texture to grab. You will notice the body looks drab and dull (milky red, I had a red supra) when you get the clear coat off.

3) clean the body again to remove and clear coat particles

4) shoot the body in a base coat (you won't need primer at this point). I usually shoot black and make sure you do very tiny coats (spray #1 - half coat thickness, spray #2 - half coat thickness).

5) when you let those two dry (give at least 6 hours each (depending on the paints you use). Check for blemishes and if you have some, use the real thin sand paper to just sand as little as possible to remove the blemish. Re apply another coat if needed.

6) you are ready to shot your paints now. Remember, the more light coats you have, the better. This will give a depth to your paint, but trust me you won't see it until the end.

7) I shot around 3 light base coats and 6 light body coats. Remeber, you don't want heavy paint on your car, it makes it look bloated. Once again, you won't really notice the bloating until you hit the last step, which is the clear coat.

8) Water Base Clear Coat - Best stuff to use and I'll give you the biggest reason: If you screw up, you have a chance to wipe it off with a little water (and as long as all your paint is dry and it's good paint, you shouldn't ruin your color coats at all). You need to let the clear coat dry twice as long as the normal paint due to it's reaction with water. If you don't let it fuse with the paint, then you even get a spec of water, and it will bead the clear coat.

Once you let it dry, just wait till you see how amazing the paint looks after that clear coat is dry.

Hope this gave you an idea on how to paint your car.


Cheers!



PS I planned on posting pics but I had to get it shipped out to the owner's parents for X-mas, I might just shoot a spare part to give an example, but don't have webspace to host .

[magneto]

I personally used the testor sand paper meant for the plastic these cars are made out of.

As you say you have to be carefu with a scuff padl, but with the sand paper I recomended, it's light enough where anyone won't have to worry about creating too deep of sand lines. Hence, why the sand paper is made by Testor Models and the whole reason for their own line of sand paper is to work on models.

I would agree on using a scuff pad if the plastic wasn't so thin and brittle (under that clear coats, it's thinkness is not that great). BTW, thanx for the crazy flame.