
06-04-2003, 01:26 AM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Savannah, GA USA
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Solar Micro #2
The solar cars that I posted at the end of the thread in Bit Science really inspired me. I built my first car to see if it would work. But, I wanted a more aesthetic version and the car shown in the thread (and I apologise to the builder, but I can't relocate the website or link to it to give him credit, but PICs of it can be found in Bit Science under the Solar Zip thread) had a shape that I thought could be further refined. So, I built this little beauty.
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06-04-2003, 01:28 AM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Savannah, GA USA
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Here's another look. The body is completely custom and is built from sheet styrene. It's painted metal flake blue, which is fairly lost in the PICs.
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06-04-2003, 01:32 AM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Savannah, GA USA
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The chassis is a stretched Motor Works car from Wal-mart. The wheel base is slightly longer than a Zip. The MW PCB, motor, and steering was used, and only the hub caps are from an X-Men ZZ. Here you can see a comparison between a stock MW chassis, the solar chassis, and a Zip. The front rims are the same size as the back. This, combined with the longer wheel base, make this car handle like a dream.
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Last edited by Azimov; 06-04-2003 at 01:35 AM.
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06-04-2003, 01:39 AM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Savannah, GA USA
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The stock battery was removed and replaced with a 1 Farad aerogel capacitor. This gives the car a good margin to get back into the sun if it gets into shade. The solar cell is rated at 4VDC @ 50mA. It's as light as paper and flexible. With the MW PCB, motor and gears, this thing is nearly three times faster than the solar Zip which uses the original PCB and blue motor and gears.
(edit) I just did a little research and found that the solar cell is actually rated at 3VDC @ 50mA. But, it's optimal rating is 4.1VDC @ 60mA. Which jives with my multi meter readings.
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If it ain't broke, tear it apart and see what makes it tick!
Last edited by Azimov; 06-05-2003 at 04:40 AM.
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06-04-2003, 01:49 AM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Savannah, GA USA
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The inner front wheel wells were tubbed out and curved plastic was put in it's place to allow the larger front wheels to turn without binding. The car is also outfitted with an extremely long spring antenna, much longer than any I've used before. I haven't yet tested range, but I have no problems at over 30 ft now. I will test this further though. The body attaches exactly the same as the MW body attached to the chassis before. There is a Zip like slot at the back and a small screw at the front. Now for the good part. This car is very cheap to build.
Motorworks car....15.00
Solar cell................4.00 (edit) Actually, they are 5.95 each at sundancesolar.com
aerogel cap............4.00
Total.....................23.00!!!
Now, I used parts from two cars, and the styrene cost a little. Then paint and glue etc.
But, you can just put the solar cell on the stock car with the cap inside for what a Zip Zap costs with batteries! This is what the gentleman did that inspired me to build this car in the first place.
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If it ain't broke, tear it apart and see what makes it tick!
Last edited by Azimov; 06-05-2003 at 04:42 AM.
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06-04-2003, 01:57 AM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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Oh, I was thinking a little explanation was in order. As I said earlier, this car operates at 4VDC @ 50mA (edit: 3VDC @ 50mA, Nominal- 4.1 @ 60mA). The Zip I built operates at 2.7VDC @ 324mA. This works because we are robbing Peter to pay Paul. We're upping the voltage to compensate for less current. The MW car can take the higher voltage with no problem. Also, it's worth mentioning that the Zip will operate over a wider range of light conditions, while this MW solar car needs full brite sun. That's the trade off that allows using very light and cheap solar cells. Keep an eye out for more variations on this theme. I'm havin a ball over here!
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If it ain't broke, tear it apart and see what makes it tick!
Last edited by Azimov; 06-05-2003 at 04:45 AM.
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06-04-2003, 02:01 AM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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And one last thing. I apologize for the bad PICs. Scanners aren't the best way to capture 3D objects. And I hope everyone will bear with me for posting this in the Zip forum. The car isn't a Zip, but, it isn't quite a Bit either. So, I put it here as I usuially post to the Zip forum. Hope you all enjoy it. And, I really hope you build one for yourself. They are a blast. Now I have to build an outdoor track for these things!
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06-04-2003, 03:54 AM
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I process, therefore I am
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Here's the car that started me on my journey into madness. I posted it here for all you lazy people that don't wanna look for it.  BTW, if someone could post the link to the site this PIC came from, I would appreciate it.
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06-04-2003, 11:02 AM
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Told ya.
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY, USA
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I am more than impressed azimov, I can honestly say I'm jelous.
Excellent work man.
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Meh.
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06-04-2003, 02:48 PM
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I really should change my title...
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 126
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Azimov, man that is some impressive work. Nice looking body too. Incredible.
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06-04-2003, 02:55 PM
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Hulk smash!
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,193
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The Haunting Clown gets another move...That's good stuff man!
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06-04-2003, 03:05 PM
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Acura RSX
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ellicott City, Maryland
Posts: 1,892
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bravo...bravo...now that is a work of art....how long is the run time....that looks really good....i could never do something like that
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06-04-2003, 03:10 PM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Savannah, GA USA
Posts: 1,075
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As long as there is sunlight!
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If it ain't broke, tear it apart and see what makes it tick!
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06-04-2003, 03:46 PM
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Hulk smash!
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Join Date: Jul 2002
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You've probably already thought this out, but...
With a power output of 4v@50mA, that's not alot to offer for acceleration/torque...So.
I'd go with the 12:1 gear for max torque and the Tomy 1.0motor (or even the Extreme Micro EM-10 Motor, very power miserly from my tests). Check out the Chart for Motor Power usage at:
http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthr...threadid=10662
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06-04-2003, 04:35 PM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Savannah, GA USA
Posts: 1,075
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I haven't had a chance to put the car through thorough testing yet as it's been raining here since I finished it. I did test the chassis with the solar cell proped on top before finishing the body though. These initial tests are inconclusive as the cell kept falling off and drug around by the car and was often not at the optimum angle to the sun to keep the cap charged. But, acceleration and torque were unreal. This is mainly due to the higher voltage. This solar cell on a stock bit would be similar to a three cell mod since the stock bits came with a 50mA battery. My only concern is that the low current may not be enough to keep the cap full and run the car continuously. If I let the car sit in the sun for a couple minutes, the cap would fill up and the car would fly, but the cap depleted in just a few seconds. But, as I said, the sun was not at it's brightest as it was around 4:30 in the afternoon and the solar cell was often upside down being drug along behind the car. I'll post more accurate details as soon as the sun comes back out. These light flexible cells come in many varieties, so it's possible to come up with many variations on this theme. Your suggestion is sound however. I've seen your write ups on motor specs and have used them more than once. If the mA rating does prove to be a problem, I'll try your suggestions. Stay tuned for more info.
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