Motor current draw findings...

[neurokinetik]

35 turns of 28 was pretty tight. If you can get 30 turns on it, I'd be surprised, or else you are just better at it than me.

It'll never be under an amp with that few turns and thick wire, though. Remember that the Plasma Dash is 27 turns of 26 Ga, and it draws 1.7A...

[neurokinetik]

Well, I now have three different 35 turn motors wound.

The first is using the old Plasma Dash armature. I used 35 turns of 28Ga. It sounds like crap, I think the brushes need some work on it.

The second is also 35 turns of 28Ga, using an old stage 2 armature, in a stage 2 can, with stage 2 brushes. I advanced the timing on the commutator whiel the armature was empty and wound it that way. It draws 0.90A, and when it spins up, you can tell why. Pretty fast. In the car, acceleration from a stop is nothing special, but after about the first five feet, it seems promising.

The third is 35 turns of 30Ga, using an old stage 1 armature with timing advance (actually identical to the stage 2 armature) in a stage 1 can with spin brush magnets. The spin brush magnets make up somewhat for the loss of torque of the smaller wire gauge, but this one does have a bit higher top speed than the 28Ga version. The current draw is much lower with the thinner wire, at only 0.70A. On the bench, it sounds quite healthy, but not quite as beefy as the 28Ga version. In the car, it runs almost the same as the 28Ga version. I really need that speed checker to see if there is any appreciable difference.

[TypeZer0]

how well would the magnet wire from radioshack work for winding motors? btw, what makes magnet wire different from regular wire? is it just the thin invisible coating or is the wire itself different?

[neurokinetik]

It's the coating. The RS magnet wire would be fine. It's pretty cheap, too, though I doubt you'll be able to make good use of the 22 and 26Ga. There is enough 30Ga there for probably 10 or more motors, though.

[TypeZer0]

hehe...let's see how fast the stock fets burn up with a 20 turn 22gauge motor

[TypeZer0]

he stuck an ammeter between the battery and the motor

[neurokinetik]

^^^What he said...

I use a DMM hooked up between a set of batteries and a motor. I am not testing these in the car using the ESC because I don't feel like ripping apart one of my setups in order to do it.

I can test current draw of the motor installed in the car, but it will still be from the standalone battery pack. Once the Tamiya speed checker gets here, I will be able to test the current draw under more realistic conditions, in a car, with the wheels actually turning something, rather than just spinning in the air.

[neurokinetik]

Originally posted by SuperDragon
Did you hook the dmm in paralle or series with the bats?


Bat + ------ Dmm + ----- + motor
Bat - ------- Dmm - ------ - motor

or

Bat + ------ + Dmm - Dmm --- + motor
Bat - ------------------------------ - motor

SD

In series. That's the proper way to measure current. The way you have the second diagram drawn is the proper way.

Another motor to add to the list:

GPM Racing MH038 Modified motor (35 turns) 0.27A

This is a 180 motor. Made for high speed, but it also has way more torque than a 130. It jumps pretty good in your hand when you give it throttle. This particular model I bought online for $13. By ear, this motor is not as fast as a stage 2. However, with the blue gear set, I'm certain that it would own any stage 2 motor/gear combo on a road course. (Guess I should install it in the car before I claim that, though. :lol: )
Anyway, very low current draw, pretty much the same as a stage 1, so it will be safe for stock ESC, and give good run time whie offering good performance. It definitely doesn't sound as fast as the other 180 motor that I tweaked, though. Maybe I'll take it down to 25 turns and see how it does.

[TypeZer0]

oooooh, me likey, strong motor and no need for a FET upgrade

[neurokinetik]

Bought another of the Team Orion Elite Stock motors today. This time I actually ran a current check on it before ripping it to pieces. In fact, I even left it stock and installed it into my drag car.

Anyway, it draws a measly 0.21A. Very safe for the stock ESC.

I also consolidated all of my measurements into the top post of the thread, for easier reference.

[neurokinetik]

Updated the top post with Spin Brush results.

I also took that Plasma Dash armature that I rewound with 35 turns of 28Ga, and put into a shiny new Yeah Racing ball bearing motor can with some Yeah Racing thin Neo magnets. Sounds really nice. Need to test it in a car.

Current draw on that one is only 0.58A, same as a stock stage 2, but I'm thinking it won't be performing like one.

[Rez]

Are you gonna post some RPM stats?

[neurokinetik]

RPM stats will happen once I get my oscilloscope. I should have it this week.

So anyway, I just built me a FET killer motor. Pulls as much current as the Plasma Dash, and sounds very fast. It is my first double-wound 130 motor, it is a 2 x 21 turn. It is using spin brush magnets, and has the timing advanced, as usual. It is also in a Yeah Racing ball-bearing can. It pulls 1.7A with no load on it. Now I have to decide what pinion I want to put on it so I can test it in a car.

[Joey]

Alright, this has been bothering me since I started coming here: does a larger amperage draw necessarily mean a higher power output?

[TypeZer0]

would winding it twice at 21 turns effectively make it a 11.5 turn motor?