mini-x electronics - Page 2

binaryterror · #16 03-22-2003, 04:55 PM

I personally think the X electronics are move than appropriate for any of 1/24th scale cars. #1 they are cheap and yet still darn durable. I have yet to have any problem with them. I even tested the ESC with 8 AAA NiMH batteries, it ran fine for a few minutes, but i didn't want to fry anything for good. (FET Stacking should help this though)

Also 1.2 volts is 1.2 volts no matter if they are AAA or subC batteries. the only gain from different types of batteries is more MAH.

Again most 1/10th scale ESCs do not require 8 batteries, they commonly run from 4-8 cells, with the higher priced ones easily handling the 4-10 or even 12 range. Adding voltage will increase your Mini-X's power...NOT RUN TIME.

Quote:

By 3series Takumi
team orion esc, hitec -55 servo, and novak xxl receiver, w/5 cells

Dude the Hitec 55 is the same as the Mini-X model, the team orion ESC is HUGE! and those dumb XXL recievers from Novak again are HUGE. The stock Receiver from the Mini-X electronics is smaller in most ways than the Hitec Shredder, which will always be the smallest ground reciever made. The ESC from the RTR kit for the X is nearly the same size as the LRP micro ESC's, but again its shape makes it hold the space it was intended to hold no more!

To gain speed in your Mini-X make it run on 6 cells, 700 MAH or 750MAH (hard to find AAA's higher in MAH). Also make sure you have bearing everywhere!!!!! This improves things so much! The next step i am looking to is a new motor can with better vents and ball bearings, then maybe a hand wind of the motor.

SteveK · #17 03-26-2003, 10:29 PM

Does somebody have dimensions and/or pictures of just the electrics? I want to use them in some smaller projects, 1/43rd scale rally cars and stuff.

3series takumi · #18 03-26-2003, 10:42 PM

(binaryterror) thanx for the bearing tip. i got a set and i cant believe how fast the X really is. it can actually roll! i got my X running 8 cells with neo mags in the can. that thing cruises even on regular streets. who knew all i needed was bearings to take out the rest of the miniZ's in my area.

i just went up to San Fran to the Tokyo Tekki shop to meet (DriftGOD) and shamed his twin turbo miniZ. it was so much fun after he left all the bad talk about miniX's in an earlier thread. this was b4 adding batteries and bearings. i was only running 5 cells. i should have taken pictures.

3series takumi · #19 03-26-2003, 10:55 PM

i realize that the electronics i have are bigger than stock. i had no idea that the stock esc will allow FET stacking. kinda wish i would have know. does the stock esc have breaks. if it does i may think about trading it in. i got most of my stuff because my local hobby spots have nothing! took a long time just to find stuff for microRS4. i dont think that i will trade my receiver in though. i can drive my car further than i can see. i probably dont need that but oh well, i got a good price on it :P

rmyc · #20 03-27-2003, 03:04 AM

i think you're able to stack fets on the X's esc .... there are 2 open slots for FETs i'm guessing the are for extra Fets...
dose any one know what kinda fets are on the esc????

here is a pic to show you guys

binaryterror · #21 03-27-2003, 05:59 AM

Yeah bearings and more cells!!!!!

About the stock Electronics again...

Yes you can stack the FET's, tinyrc is looking into getting them.

The stock Reciever...it lacks range....about 50 feet outdoors and less indoors.

Now that you have it all set up though....really i would keep it that way....

bluemax_1 · #22 03-28-2003, 07:09 PM

As far as adding fets goes... looks like there's only room for 2 more V30010's on the board, wonder how much extra capacity that would allow? I know some mini-z nuts stack 20+ 7389 fets on the mini-z esc but with the mini-x fets mounted vertically like they are, I'm not sure how it would be possible to actually 'stack' more fets than the additional 2 slots allow. My real concern is with the motor though. I've heard of people burning out the motor with just 6-cells.

Running my mini-x on my kitchen floor and drifting full throttle quite a bit, the motor already gets pretty darn hot. can't imagine what it would be like if I put more juice through it, and I'm only running on the stock 5-cells at the moment.

So how did the Neo mag addition work out? Any noticeable improvements? I've heard that adding neo mags gives the motor more torque but doesn't really give you a higher top end, but I've also read somewhere that putting in the neo's makes the motor run cooler when you have more cells? Is this true? Wondering how that could be possible.

3series takumi · #23 03-28-2003, 07:14 PM

i got a set of $9 neo magnets and my motor runs cool with 8cells now versus hot with the 6 cells originally

bluemax_1 · #24 03-28-2003, 07:18 PM

Well, I guess that answers my question. Where did you get the neo mags BTW? Any ideas why they make the motor run cooler and do you know if neo mags for mini-z motors will fit? I think NML has these neo mags that are super strong. Like the highest rated gauss for magnets that size. Supposedly allow your car to stick to the side of a real car even with the batts loaded

3series takumi · #25 03-28-2003, 07:22 PM

the neo mags are more efficient than regular one. i got the miniz mags from tokyo tekki. i love their track. i was the only one there with a miniX. i was lapin people without the mags installed. i bet i can kill them now.

bluemax_1 · #26 03-28-2003, 07:39 PM

3series takumi, Cool! So you're now running neo mags in the can, with 8-cells and the Orion Flash and Novak esc? Nice. The only reason I could come up with to run a different esc from stock is to get the brakes. Seems the stock esc goes straight into reverse, whichi does make the car stop quicker, but it's not great for control for slowing down and I think it puts even more load on the motor.

Anyway, I think I'm going to order the neo mag and extra fets and see how those work out.

Also, did you really notice a huge difference in the car after putting in the bearing set? I just put mine in and I didn't really notice a huge improvement. A little maybe, but not too much. Then again, like I said, I'm running the stock 5-cells and I don't really have enough room to let hit top speed.

Wonder if it's possible to get a ball bearing can for this motor?

3series takumi · #27 03-28-2003, 07:46 PM

i think i could have just had a bad set of bushing, but the bearings helped me out alot. it was about 10% faster and 20% faster in corners. i also had a problem with the wheel wobble but the bearings fixed that. have you tried loosining the diffs. i had my rear one too tight at one point, it could drift but was slow cornering and it put a load on the motor adding to the heat. right not i can drift but i can corner nicely with a slightly tight front and a slightly loose rear dif.

i hate these diff btw, they are nothin like my RS4 diffs. i cant wait for new ones like One-way diffs. i would try and make some if i new how they worked.

bluemax_1 · #28 03-28-2003, 08:28 PM

Even with the Xpress bearing set in, my wheels still wobble

maybe that's why I'm not noticing a significant difference in performance.

As for the ball diffs on the mini-x, I agree with you. These aren't exactly the best things around. For one thing, they're a real pain to adjust. Mine came too tight as well and trying to loosen them to the right amount was frustrating. I think someone else mentioned this in a another thread as well that the diffs aren't too precise and at certain points in the rotation, will catch much easier. The difference between having a diff that just slips and does nothing and one that turns the whole drivetrain seems to be almost impossible to balance.

I think there was a post that recommended putting in a rubber washer in the diff to act as a kind of spring allowing you more turns between a locked diff and a spinning one. Haven't tried that but I can say, that the best I've managed to adjust my diff, it works properly most of the time but at some points in the rotation, it sometimes catches and spins the whole drivetrain and occasionally, (but less often) it does the opposite and just allows me to turn the one wheel with nothing else happening. So far that's the best I've managed to get my diffs adjusted. Not exactly the most precise construction.

Also, 3series takumi, how difficult was it to change the mags in the can? Any advice on doing this myself, i.e. things I want to be careful of so I don't end up breaking anything?

3series takumi · #29 03-28-2003, 08:58 PM

installing the mags are very easy, all you need is a soldering iron and a small flathead screw driver. i would go to www.pn-racing.com then go to the technology section on the top and in that section they show you step by step how to do it

3series takumi · #30 03-28-2003, 09:03 PM

i forgot to say that it is easier to remove the solder joint on the can instead of where the wire and brushes are if you have wires already on your motor. in the PN instructions they do the opposite. it doesnt really matter but it saves time if you only have to solder the capacitor to the can instead of the capacitor and the wire to the brush. i hope that wasnt confusing.