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  #61  
Old 10-10-2009, 03:52 PM
nalves nalves is offline
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I must say the more i run the dnano the more i like it :-) and with the diff ball well clean and smooth it's wonderful...just need someone to run with me or the IC lap counter...

Nuno
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  #62  
Old 10-11-2009, 01:49 PM
nalves nalves is offline
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Well, yesterday i spend my afternoon (btw watching the national portuguese soccer team...) running the Porsche 911 trying to figure it out what was the best rear susp for the dnano. I've tried the stock plastic with foam (from the action scrubber bubbles, lololo) and the hard and medium Kyosho plates.

No doubts that the Kyosho plates don't work with my car. The rear end was always chattering (is this the correct word?) and at least in two turns the dnano was always doing what i didn't want. It had too much oversteer during on-power or off-power. So, no more Kyosho plates...



No questions for me that the best performance (for now) is with the stock plate with foam. It is a little bit loose and that helps me but just that little bit that i need. No chattering, no nothing. Very smooth, since the beginning.




Dirt :-( A thin hair for the dnano is like a rock in the 1/8 TT. But you normally see a rock.... Since i start using the Kyosho ball bearing diff i'm always cleaning the diff, pack after pack. So, with the atomic SSG DSP susp i can imagine more trouble.

And finally, i'm having trouble taking off the diff from the rear end. Perhaps it's the bearing...

Nuno

Last edited by nalves; 10-11-2009 at 06:40 PM.
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  #63  
Old 10-12-2009, 07:29 PM
nalves nalves is offline
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Well, in another post Nitrojunkie and Fraz were talking about ball diff lub. Nitrojunkie uses TriFlow, with Teflon and i thought that was a good ideia. I remember using dry teflon in the beginning of my rc experience in the 1/8TT. So i bought one, although not the dry TriFlow (the didn't have it).

There's no really great difference btw 20wt AE shock oil and the TriFlow. Maybe it's a little too loose for me, because i had more steering. But the great advantage was it is less dirty than the silicone oil. Way less dirtier. Run 3 packs with it and i had almost no dust on it.

So, maybe i'll use it hereafter. Probably, changing from 45R to 35R will help.

Nuno

Last edited by nalves; 10-12-2009 at 08:58 PM.
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  #64  
Old 10-14-2009, 08:56 PM
nalves nalves is offline
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For those using Aluma-Tech rims with the # 1 rear aluminum hubs: I have a problem with the fitting of the aluma rim in the rear hub on the side of the pinion. The holes that lock the rim in the rear aluminum hub (on the pinion's side) are not so deep as the stock one. Because of that the special peg of the rim is a little too long to make a perfect fit. If you take the tyres and roll the car with the rims on you'll see that the rim is not even with the diff (or floor).

I had to change the rear left aluminum hub for the stock one to be totaly perfect.

Don't know if this only happens with the #1 hubs.

Nuno

Last edited by nalves; 10-14-2009 at 11:06 PM.
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  #65  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:04 PM
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arch2b arch2b is offline
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its aluminum, its soft. its easy to fix with a simple flat file. shave the peg down a smidge.
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  #66  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:22 PM
nalves nalves is offline
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Don't have the correct tools right now to work in something so small...
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  #67  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:30 PM
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ah, right. you have to get within the sides of the rim. i'm sure you can find something useful at your local hardware store. the upside is it's aluminum. it's a soft metal as far as metals go.

your other choice is finding the right diameter metric drill bit and take the hole in the hub down farther. you should be able to do it by hand even by twisting it in the hole. it's a shame they made the aluminum hub with a shorter hole.
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  #68  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:40 PM
nalves nalves is offline
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If i had my Dremmel Stylus ...but it's in Portugal. Just have to go to Homedepot and buy a new one...

By the way, did you see the martini decals? Do you think it will work on the dnanos?
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  #69  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:46 PM
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unless you have a variable speed dremel, i would avoid using the dremel. it can take down the aluminum quickly and you don't want to grind the numb off completely. one of the cylinder grinding bits should work perfectly.
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  #70  
Old 11-05-2009, 11:18 AM
nalves nalves is offline
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Well, it's been a while since i last posted here.

Been driving the Dnano in my track 3 times a week. I'm starting to get a little bored running against no one but what can i do? Probably i'll have to buy the IC lap counter or something similiar. I'm trying to convince some budys from my neighbourhood to run the dnanos, but apart from baseball and football there's nothing more...

New cars are arriving the next week, as well as new tiles for my RCP track...just to keep up the interest...

Nuno
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  #71  
Old 11-05-2009, 05:38 PM
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want to spice things up a bit, add bumps under the track make for some interesting racing, especially when you bank inside turns to mimic a sharp drop and turn.
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  #72  
Old 11-06-2009, 11:02 AM
Marcro Marcro is offline
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I've had no issues with my wheels other than the 17F's.
The 17F's did not even have that "peg" on the inside to lock it onto the hub's.
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Good thing's come in small packages!
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  #73  
Old 11-06-2009, 04:33 PM
nalves nalves is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b View Post
want to spice things up a bit, add bumps under the track make for some interesting racing, especially when you bank inside turns to mimic a sharp drop and turn.
Ye, i could do that...hope that my kids doesn't have differente ideas about those bumps...

About the new body that is coming - Fairlady Z - do you have any pictures of it? I've heard people talking about it but never saw any picture on Kyosho dnano website...

Nuno
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  #74  
Old 11-13-2009, 12:07 AM
nalves nalves is offline
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Well, new material in the house!

My mini rcp track got bigger, Aston Martin and Porsche 917 in the shelve (not for long) and waiting for the Z. Starting my first experience with paints in a clean GT3.

Tomorrow i'll post some photos of the new layout of the track.

Regards,
Nuno
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  #75  
Old 11-14-2009, 01:00 AM
nalves nalves is offline
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Well, for the last 5 hours i played with my new Aston Martin. I really love that body....

With new bearings, gyro and PN 45F/15R i tried to figure it out what was the best plate for my not-so-Mini RCP track.

First the stock plate, second all three from PN and finally the medium and hard from Kyosho. My usual problem was i had too much front (or less rear) comparing with the GT3. When turning the rear always wanted to overtake the front...

In the end the best plate was the medium Kyosho ( attach like this >-<<). Because it's a little harder than the others (stock and PN), the front stoppted having too much transfer weight when turning or braking and didn't twist so much when turning.

The major problem, for me is:
- the Aston Martin is bigger that the Porsche and it felt strange for me having such a big car in the RCP track
- the front bumper love to be under the foam rails...every time i bumped the rails i had to go there and take the car out...a little annoying...

So, for now, without any question, the best car is the Porsche GT3.

Nuno
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