
01-12-2007, 12:11 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 43
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Dude, buy a micro-t it's the best 80 bucks you'll spend. and while you're at it, buy an aero ace by air hogs. that's the best 30 bucks you'll ever spend.
and the chassis modification required for the r-tec 250 MaH 2s lipo is alot of modification in my opinion...
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01-13-2007, 04:15 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 43
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Awesome LBRC, thanks man.
If Viperdout reads this, please post some stuff here, I'm having trouble finding your stuff on google for the micro-t. you're registered to like, every micro RC thing on the web, lol, and all I get is "viperdout profile" stuff.
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02-13-2007, 11:32 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: La Puente CA SGV
Posts: 31
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about how much longer are lipo runtimes over cell pack runtimes and how much are lipo chargers and are 2cell lipo packs as explosive as the ones in those videos
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04-21-2007, 10:39 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 4
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GREAT SUCCESS using 2 x $3 BatterySpace.com 300mah 10440's
Now this little thing FLIES and lasts TWICE AS LONG; batteries don't even get slightly warm!
There were some concerns that the batteries wouldn't hold up to the motor's high amp draw, but I've had nothing but success with these things!
Here's my success checklist:
- QTY2 of BatterySpace.com's $3 model 10440 Li-Ion batteries wired in series for a total of $6
- One $4 PCB from BatterySpace.com to protect your batteries and your Micro-T from a fire
- $50-60 Li-Ion charger (this thing charges nearly EVERYTHING!); sign up for their newsletter & get a $10 off $50 coupon, plus when I added the item to my cart, I got an instant $10 off (maybe a fluke)
- If you can't afford the above mentioned charger (it is a bit pricey), you can try BatterySpace.com's Smart Charger for $10 (note that it's only for one cell so you'll need to wire your batteries to be able to charge one at a time)
- No hair in your rotating parts
- Wheel bearings
- Tranny with one screw slightly loose (1/2-3/4 turn); use your finger to turn the spur gear (motor removed) to see which screw makes the difference
- Correct pinion/spur gear mesh
- Commutator drops - no drilling required since there's already a hole in the side of the motor at the back of the Micro-T
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- 18 or 20 guage/awg silicone wire
- Dremel or drill to carve up your Micro-T; I recommend removing the metal posts prior to glueing since they are very difficult to carve and lose all structural integrity when they are cut in half anyway
- Glue for the battery cover and battery pack; I used Shoe Goo
- Electrical tape to cover your connections
Last edited by Stompers Rule!; 04-24-2007 at 06:13 AM.
Reason: weblinks were too long
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