New Zz Pcb Mod - Page 5

Nightwing · #61 10-20-2002, 12:18 AM

A glob will do but for those that have abused way too much caffene and long hours of coding could try this.

Basically it "tack" and "go" so to speek. Cut a pice of wire or use a resistor lead. The just heat one side of the resistor with a dab of solder. Let it cool. Put some soldar on one end of your wire. Now place the wire on the area that you added soldar to. Quickly heat and remove the iron from that spot {dont add soldar}. May need to do it again until it sticks. Let it cool or hit it with a cool can.

Bend the wire over like an arch doorway to touch when you do the other side. And repeat the same steps before.

This is usually goes under the "reflow" soldar method. It also keep the time that the "part" is under heat to the abolute minimum. Also if it fails to work right simply snip the top of the arch will will break the short or trim it flat.

gunner.inc · #62 10-20-2002, 11:15 PM

so does anyone know if this jumper mod gives you the speed as th no revers mod?im new so be gental on me lol

gunner

catman25 · #63 10-21-2002, 07:13 AM

the no reverse mod gives you 100% better accel and power..the resistor dont really thrill me..it may give a lil but you really cant tell that much in my opinion...heres what you should do ..i feel zip chassis is superior but the microsizer board is better ..so put a microsizer board into the zip..and there.s ways of getting a cheap chassis just for this project!

#64 10-21-2002, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by catman25
...and there.s ways of getting a cheap chassis just for this project!

I'm interested! Clue me in...

ICH_BIN_GUT! · #65 10-21-2002, 08:47 PM

=P I'm Getting lost in all of the replies

First it works, then it dosent, Then someone says it works for them and advises solder instead, then....

I'm really not sure of this mod. Can You guys give me a final summary?

marc515192 · #66 10-21-2002, 10:09 PM

I believe this mod may be incomplete. I too tried this mod and at first I felt it worked well, but then I got whomped by a stock ZZ so I undid the mod. I have since swaped a bit PCB and got the wanted results and will never change it. I did see a mod today that may be the completion o this mod but have not had a chance to do it to my other zip. When I'm done I'll post the results. in the meantime read this thread
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread....&threadid=2279

Axel · #67 10-21-2002, 11:23 PM

Hey guys, I'm gonna have some fun stuff up for you real soon.

A couple days ago I was trying to get a 9v battery to work properly in my zz. It's always worked, but the signal is too weak from the reciever and I either have to touch antennas or the signal is intermittent and the car gos and stops over and over. Well, I got tired of this so I cracked the old board open once again to check stuff out. I noticed that there were a few resistors coming from the antenna before anything else was reached. Being the naive fool that I am, I figured, "Why not just jumper these things? That'll make the signal stronger right?" so I jumpered one, and it made for a bit better full power reception, but only like 2 or 3 inches more. I jumpered another and the thing seemed to be up to about 3 and a half feet reception, so I went to run the thing, and after about 20 seconds it stopped. I'm like, "Great I friend it". BUT I didn't (only that resistor). Now, after several accidents I have completely removed 3 resistors, 1 transistor, shorted two of the paths to each other, and hooked the antenna up in a totally different place. Now my full, non fluctuating range with the 9v is about 20 feet.

So what does this mean for everybody else? I've been doing a little documentation of what affect jumpering or removing which resistors and bridging which paths means. Some of them seemed to increase power, some decreased. Some increased range, some decreased. Some stopped any motion, some made motion go all the time. Hehe, it was pretty fun and the stupid thing still actually works!!

I was inspired to do this when my 1/24th buddy, whom I beat with a 3v mod last weekend, started running a 9V in his car. His car is a lot bigger than mine and can obviously sustain a whole lot more, but I figured if he can use a 9v when we're racing, why can't I? So what if my ZZ sits up like an off-roader now :-) I'm set to race him again on wednesday... we'll see how he does with his modded Nicco 1/24th subaru! (No chance :-)

Nightwing · #68 10-22-2002, 12:17 AM

Wonder if replacing the transistors in the H bridge with FET's would help?

Dayfall · #69 10-22-2002, 05:35 PM

Funny you mention that, Nightwing. My parts came in today and the first thing I tried replacing the 5cent transistors with 44cent fets. And from what I can tell, I am getting about 0.3 more volts to the motor. I posted my full results here http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread...=&threadid=2279

But the real test will be how it performs up against my cat.

Nightwing · #70 10-22-2002, 05:52 PM

Hum. Was a though.

Wondering if cat's really developed these thing to give them something to chase and humans something to do?

Got hit with another cold last weekend so that wreck the weekend "Rip a ZZ aparts for info bit". Want to do it soon. Hard to do SMT work while sneezing!

hogjowlz · #71 10-22-2002, 06:31 PM

my buddy just got back from vacation so tonight or tomorrow were gona prod around with the board. hes got all the right test equipment and he solders like picasso paints. ill let you guys know what he comes up with.

SlowbutCourious · #72 02-11-2003, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gpile
This is the mod we have all been looking for. As always use at your own risk....if your ZZ blows up....dont blame me.

there are two 68 ohm resistors that will be jumpered. Locate these resistors as follows:

1) Remove the clear cover over the PCB.
2) hold the ZZ so the motor is on the right.
3) on the PCB there is a very small resistor on the very bottom right corner just below a 3 pin MOSFET (labeled Q6). Solder a jumper across this resistor.
4) locate the same resistor just below Q5 and jumper it.

5) In summary you are jumpering the two resistors just below Q5 and Q6. Note: between Q5 and Q6 there are two resistors the one you are jumpering is the top one (the one next to Q5).

Based on test myself and others have done we know that the speed controller has a very high on resistance. I originally thought this was due to poor components etc. I now think that the speed controller is designed to not allow full current to reach the motor. Not sure why, but it seems that way.

This mod allows forward and reverse to work and boosts the current supplied to the motor by 25% from a somewhat charged battery of 1.22volts before the mod I saw 97ma after I was getting 125ma. A fully charged battery no doubt would bump the current more.

I would caution against running multiple batteries with this mod.

Cheers

..if this works i might have just alittle respect for Zips...thanks...

Stridex · #73 02-11-2003, 05:18 PM

STOP!!!

If the new PCB's have taught us anything, it's that this mod is so far off it's rediculous. Just buy a Gold Civic or Black Mustang and your problems are solved. I don't know where my post with the new PCB pics is, but it'll show you none of these resistors were touched. And the new PCB's are just as good as Bits/sizers. Maybe a little slower cos' the added weight.

SlowbutCourious · #74 02-22-2003, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Stridex
STOP!!!

If the new PCB's have taught us anything, it's that this mod is so far off it's rediculous. Just buy a Gold Civic or Black Mustang and your problems are solved. I don't know where my post with the new PCB pics is, but it'll show you none of these resistors were touched. And the new PCB's are just as good as Bits/sizers. Maybe a little slower cos' the added weight.

...i got one of theis and zz still suck... thats my opp.

CRUMB · #75 03-01-2003, 12:15 PM

yeah i kinda killed my zz doing this mod does anyone know where i could buy just the zz car itself if they do that?