burned out motor

[ben1112]

my lhs only stocks the micro modified motor
i am thinking of just using a 130 motor with the shaft mod of 3st. i think it may be too fast to use for bigger sizes..

[cdog4w]

I'd agree with you, but after blowing a motor I'm worried about doing it again. Not to mention that potentiality pointed out that the heat is very bad for the batteries that sit right next to the motor. So there are two ways to solve that problem. One is to get a nice 130 like takumi, and then to do even more work on it by adding a BB can and neo mags. After that it should run pretty cool. Two would be to just get a normal 180. From what I understand, the 180's have more than enough torque and are designed for it so that they don't heat up much (someone let me know if I'm wrong in this line of thought).

I think tak's setup has an advantage over the above mounted 180/130 shaft mod in terms of CG, but not in terms of motor flexibility. Then again, as he said he's done and won't need to change motors again. There are other designs that wouldn't mount the motor above the shaft that might work too, but those would require me to shift more things around than I'm willing to do right now. Maybe if I can find a cheap extra chassis.

So does my logic about the 2 options sound about right?

[cdog4w]

Went by the hobby shop, but they didn't carry any 180 motors. They had a ton (6) of the tamiya motors (plasma dash, torque tuned, etc.). Those any good for the X? Anyway, so I picked up some 2mm brass rod (will try to find steel later if it works out), but I noticed that the rod for the armature is slightly larger (on the 4WD motor). So I'm guessing 2.5mm? Anyone know where I can get that size?

I also picked up a tamiya mini 4WD gearset for the transfer gears, comes with one hex holed beige gear, a red gear and a black gear (latter two with round holes). It also comes with the WORST ball bearing I've ever seen. Anyway, the gears slide right onto 2mm rod. Should I try to find the 2.5mm, or can those gears be glued down?

I also got some aluminum sheets to use for making a motor mount. One .032 thick, the other .064 thick (no units listed). I think the .064 is thick enough to make a chassis for a car the size of the X, so it would certainly do for a motor mount. Hopefully I can get away with the .032 though since it will be easier to work with (and I've never worked with aluminum like this).

While I was there I also picked up a set or two of the dubro "2mm socket head cap screws" which are awesome if you don't like the cheap screws that come with the mini-x. They're basically direct replacements, and its close to impossible to strip them (they use a 1.5mm hex driver). They're also black, which looks smoother than the chromey screws. Chrome should be on wheels, not screws :P

[e_lm_70]

Originally posted by mini-xmen

Does the stock esc hold up 9,6V??????

Yes Stock Mini-X ESC V2.0 handle up to 9.6V ... but butter to disable reverse !

If you unplug Motor+ , and you just use Batter+ (both for motor & battery) you are 100% safe with 9.6V pack and with motor up to 300 ! You lose reverse, but you gain a lieanr brake !

The stock ESC is so brutal in changing from full forward to fall reverse that, if you use to switch quickly throw your TX, either you burn the motor or you burn the ESC.

About Stock 4wd motor for Mini-X ... just replace magnet with stronger Neo Magnet, this will increase efficiency and reduce temperature ... lot of torque gained ... but some lost in top speed too !

e_lm_70

[cdog4w]

Thanks for the tips, never would of thought of doing that to disable reverse. Pretty cool. I'm still running on my 180 4WD conversion and I haven't had any problems yet, but I haven't had time to run it too often. With all the friction in the drivetrain, I'm considering shaving out some space to mount the 180 2WD style inline like the car was designed. Should get me some ridiculous tire popping speed :P