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  #16  
Old 02-16-2004, 05:02 PM
4-D 4-D is offline
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consider using wier from the magnetic steering of a zip/mini rc car caz thers barely aney room in the tank. that wier is as thin as a hair. thats what i used for the back of my tank in thred WA LA, you know where the red lights are and i used serfs mounted LEDs ther much smaller ther the bulb shaped LEDs but if you can afford the room it would be beder 2 use bulb shaped LED caz it might b brighter and give a cooler affect
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  #17  
Old 02-17-2004, 01:04 PM
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You used the zip zaps wire lol. Alrighty then. There is enough room to have wires teh same thickness as the ones in there already, I would suggest switchin those brittle wires out. Too thin and there inst really insulation on them so if they touch and short out you might burn yoru batts or pcb board. That would be very bad. I am still going to use the fiber optics idea. Running a led to the end of the barrel is a little unrealistic. Having a second led inside the turret is reasonable. Then just drill out teh barrel and insert the nylon guitar string.
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  #18  
Old 02-17-2004, 05:21 PM
Draconious Draconious is offline
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all I can say is GOOD LUCK drilling out the barrel its kinda small, your gona wind up drilling out the side at some poitn lol... thats why I said to use a clear plastic/glass tube, and paint it, then the LED will shine from one end out the other...
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  #19  
Old 02-17-2004, 05:53 PM
4-D 4-D is offline
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hay hay hay cant we all just get along
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  #20  
Old 02-17-2004, 06:07 PM
spad spad is offline
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well, we'll see... i bought super tiny drill bits from a hobby shop! with a dremel it should go fine.... let's hope so!
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  #21  
Old 02-24-2004, 05:18 PM
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Hooray, I got it working, no help from you alard though. Your circuit was wrong again so I sat down this time and thought it out with my teacher. Heh, a 10k resistor should be in place before the #2 pin and after the connection to the IR led. Also pin #4 is connected to pin #8 by way of a simple wire. The resistor was added because now when the pulse is triggered its not a long lasting glow from the led. Now its about a .25 seconds which is more like it. I just ordered all the parts, very very very tiny ones, and have started work on my pc board that will go in the frontal cavity of the tanks chassis. Wires will run up to the turret where it will house a super bright white led. The flash will be transfered via nylon guitar string. I will post the parts list up as soon as I know everything is the right stuff to make this thing work. www.Mouser.com is a good resource for electronics parts. Siiigh well im gonna go work on the circuit board diagram some more. Later guys!
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  #22  
Old 02-24-2004, 07:35 PM
4-D 4-D is offline
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GOD SPEED MAN!!! or i shude say take your time: confused:
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  #23  
Old 02-24-2004, 08:00 PM
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Heh, thx. Most likely I will just end up fabricating new barrels out of aluminum in a lathe and repaint them. I dont really have any concerns about it.
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  #24  
Old 02-24-2004, 10:53 PM
4-D 4-D is offline
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well that dos sound like a better idea then trying 2 drill out something thats hard 2 replace like the original barrel no offence spad but geting your dremel bit X&Yaxes ALL THE WAY DOWN dead center OF THE BARREL!!!!! well....... seems like a slimm chans
besides Combat-Digi-Q is on to something.that sounds like some SEROUS MARKETING HERE!! MASS PRODUCTION!!! THER WILL B ONE IN EVERY HOUSEHOLD!!!!!!! MONOPOLY!!!! MONOPOLY!!!!MONOPOLY!!!! MONOPOLY!!! 4D:<panting & sweating profusely} OK im clam now but no sounds like a good idea.i just hope what ever light admitting diode your useing is bright enuff,like the one under the tank caz that mother is bright .LIKE BLOW!!! im talking eye cyandy and not the nose........ HA HA LOL
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  #25  
Old 02-25-2004, 08:25 AM
Alard Alard is offline
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Sorry for any confusion

Good thing you had someone to help you out.

Something to consider:
Not all 555 IC's are the same. Different manufacturers chips can behave somewhat differently.

The chip I used did not require the reset pin, (4), to be tied to +VCC.
The resistor between the IR LED and the trigger pin (2) was also unnecessary.

To change the length of the pulse, C1 or R1 values should be changed.

To lengthen the pulse raise either value.
To shorten the pulse lower either value.

In any case, glad it's working.
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  #26  
Old 02-25-2004, 04:21 PM
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Heh yeah, I thought that all 555 timers were basiclly the same that is the pins and what there for. Thanks anyways for gettin me started, I probly wouldnt be doing it if you didnt post the pic of the diagram. Glad you motivated me though.
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  #27  
Old 02-25-2004, 05:14 PM
marc12 marc12 is offline
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any pcitures?
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  #28  
Old 02-25-2004, 05:46 PM
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Heh, Im not really that far along to post pictures+my digi cam isnt working. All it is right now is parts on a breadboard, I am currently starting to draw the pcb board. its about 1 and 1/2 centimeters by 1 centimeters. Very tiny, all my components are going to be super small. Ill let you guys know when I have made progress, so far I have been after school everyday looking up parts in a Mouser Catalog and doing some pcb board configuration. But without the parts I cant really make a pcb board as of yet. Ill keep you guys posted
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