180motor in XMOD

[TypeZer0]

the colgate motion has the FF-180SH, no PH suffix. i'll pick one up soon and try to take the endbell off because looking at his pics, i don't think there's any tabs to file off, it's probably soldered on

[neurokinetik]

Those brushes are unfortunately going to make that option a non-starter, because there isn't a good set of brushes available unless you buy one of the more expensive motors.

For experimenting, it looks like either the Team Orion at $11, or the Duratrax at $9.

BTW, the Team Orion motor is a FK-180SH. The Mabuchi sticker is hidden under the Team Orion label.

Also note, that in testing, my 30 turn (26 Gauge) 180 motor is not as torquey as even the 35 turn GPM motor. Top end is decent, but I think maybe dropping down to 28Ga wire might be a better choice, though my torque will suffer even more. I think I am going to rewind my Team Orion again, and see if that is indeed the better combo.

If the GPM had neutral timing, I'd say it would be a no-brainer for the 180 motor of choice, as it is epoxy balanced, whisper quiet, smooth, and fast. But since the timing is retarded, it is not running optimally. For a 7.2V setup, though, it is still a performance bargain at $13.

[Shane_882002]

hey how do you move the things in back of the micro Rs4 motor to fit in your xmod????? please help
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NEXIUM SIDE EFFECTS

[neurokinetik]

You need to remove the motor bracket at the rear of the motor. Keep in mind it will not fit in an RSX due to the shorter wheelbase. The wire terminals at the back of the motor may need to be trimmed for the best fit. I just snipped mine with some diagonal cutters. As long as you leave a little bit sticking through that board, you will be OK. Then, you only need to solder on the XMods motor connector, as the little board already has a nice set of surface-mount noise-suppression caps on it.

[backtrack9]

Okay, I got a Micro RS4 stock 180 motor and opened it up to make a few little modifications. I first unwound the armature completely. Next I repositioned the comm by turning it 90° CW (if you are looking at the armature from the comm side, not the power shaft side). This put the comm in the same orientation relative to the brushes as the 130 motors. I then moved the comm again 10° CCW to add advancement to the motor (this would mean that I moved the comm a total of 80° CW). I then began winding the armature with 26 ga. wire. I wound the armature in the same way in which the 130 motors are wound. Just mark the comm posts that go to each pole (in the 130 style winding, not the 180 style) before reorienting the comm to keep track of which two posts go to which pole. After rotating the comm 80° I put 25 turns of 26 ga. wire on each pole. After assembly I tested the no-load current (0.51A). Not too bad coming from a motor that sounds like it has as high of rpms as the Plasma Dash. This thing screams - literally. The torque is not even an issue, more than enough to get moving at a fast rate. After installing it in my Supra with the 9t pinon I was suprised to find that when holding the car in mid-air at full throttle it actually hurt my ears. I put her down to go for a test run. Not even funny! It takes about 1-1/2 to 2 feet to get up to full speed and then it is like a rocket. After about 12 minutes of track time in my garage I noticed only two things that were small drawbacks. The first is that the car is now heavier meaning that even with AWD you have to be careful going around corners too fast (fishtailing). The second is that the car's lower heatsink gets only slightly warm to the touch (never did before, even when using some hot motors). I have not done a FET upgrade and have run all of these motors (not without checking the current draw first of course) on the stock ESC. I think that I will rewind this motor with about 35-40 turns of 28 ga. wire to help the stock electrics last and just to be safe. At any rate, I think the 80° offset orientation of the comm has some advantages. I will try it again and then post some results.

[neurokinetik]

Good findings. If you are getting Plasma Dash RPMs out of the motor, I'll have to try your winding method.

It is true that the 180 motor will alter your weight distibution a bit, pushing the weight bias towards the front. That tends to make the car tail-happy, even with AWD. Moving the batteries back helps. The other thing contributing to the tail-happy nature of the car is the ability to generate wheelspin much easier.

Last night, I wound one with 35 turns of 28Ga. It sounds decently fast, definitely better than the stock Team Orion. Pulls more current (0.40A vs. 0.28A) than the GPM modified motor, which is also supposed to be a 35T motor. Sounds torquey, but I have not installed it in the car yet. (I really need more 11 tooth pinions)

[xxspeednplayaxx]

i purchased a 180 motor for 5.95$ its the hoppin hydros big bad johnson motor.. i didnt have a pinion puller so i bought a 12T pinion for a micro rs4.. however the motor axel is too thing for the pinion and lock screw, so i fabricated a bushing for a tight, even fit... im not sure if this motor is safe fr xmods because i havent out it in yet (still enjoying my mod) once i try it ill tell you how it is

[00black_civic]

Is this the team orion motor yall have been talkin about if not would this one fit in my Civic? Thanks for the help.

[neurokinetik]

That's the one...

[00black_civic]

Dont hate me for this but i went and looked at the mini-z motors and was wondering if i could fit one of those in my car. One more question should i get a mini-z motor (if it fits), Team Orion or one of these.

[00black_civic]

Sorry cant post more than one pic

[00black_civic]

or this one sorry 1 more

[00black_civic]

Last one

[GaryMan]

yeah the team orion motors work good and i dont know about the first 3 but the last one is the one i have and it takes off like a rocket as far as top speed its IMO i say a hand past the top speed of a stage 2 but its a well worth upgrade no modificattion outside reversing the polarity (neg to pos, pos to neg)

[00black_civic]

Can you tell me RPMs on any of those?