BitChar-GMotors! - Hardcore tech thread! - Page 3

Axel · #31 10-03-2002, 08:55 AM

aXon:
I thought you'd like that :-)
Your car sounds sweet!! I think I might try to get myself one of those lexan bodies.

loweredfool:
Ya, you can get them that small, but they hold practically nothing then... something lie 25 mAh a piece. That goes fast at high voltage. Plus, if you start getting much over 4 or 5 V then you risk shorting your circuitry and it's just too darn fast to handle at all then. I hooked a 9V up to mine (strapped it on top) and ever with the nearly trippling of the cars weight it was almost uncontrollable it was so fast and it flipped all the time. One of those Li-Ion batteries will give you 3.6V which is plenty.

I just use the regular charger on my current 2 cell 2.4V setup. Since it's still NiMh it charges jut fine on the stock charger, it just takes longer. For the Li-Ion batteries you'd have to modify the charger to put out exactly 4.2V of power to the battery. For every .1 volt less than that it makes your battery capacity/life go down a ton, and it you go over 4.25V then you blow the battery. That's the only downfall of Li-Ions... they're fragile as heck (and expensive.

lowerdfool · #32 10-03-2002, 09:35 AM

some more interesting info for you to look into axon.
multimeter readouts between bits & zips

Mattydiah · #33 10-03-2002, 02:24 PM

What is the max mA that these things can hande? I see they sell them up to 1500 milliamps, but I would imagine that would fry the circuitry considering that the stock battery is what, 120 mA??

I think I'm going to order two if I can, one to my apartment and one to my parents house. I know, I'm evil

lowerdfool · #34 10-03-2002, 02:35 PM

stock is 100 MA. try somewhere around 120 to 200. I'd say 200 would be close to pushing it although our circuit boards do add a lot of resistance so it might be ok.

Axel · #35 10-03-2002, 02:36 PM

Your reading that wrong, those numbers are mAh not MA. They are just capacity ratings which don't affect anything except the amount of time that you can use the battery before recharging.

#36 10-03-2002, 02:37 PM

the stock battery puts out more than 200 mA (it pegged my multimeter that only measures up to 200). Only 110 or less is making it to the motor in mine.

Mattydiah · #37 10-03-2002, 02:47 PM

Alright, I ordered two batteries, one rechargeable Li-ion, and one regular Li-SOCl2.

The Li-SOCl2 is part number ER14250M (the first battery listed under "Power Type Battery") and can be found here

The rechargeable Li-ion is part number Li14500 and can be found here

If you click the part numbers you get a detailed description of each battery, I just found that out (wow am I smart!

).

Anyways, hopefully it wont take forever to ship these, I'm itching to try them out!!

Namuna · #38 10-03-2002, 04:07 PM

- Since there's no specific info on the Stock NiCads in the Bits, it can't be confirmed what the 'rated' mAH is...I was under the impression it was more in the range of 50mAH (considering the MUCH longer runtimes on the 120mAH/150mAH NiMH, a rating of 50mAH on the NiCads makes more sense)

If you want the specific volts/amps that the cars put out to the motor, go to the thread that lowerdfool linked above.

rrvbl · #39 10-09-2002, 03:13 AM

Did anybody ever receive any of those free Lithium Ion rechargeable batteries? If so, how did they work? Did you figure out a way to change the charger?

#40 10-09-2002, 10:32 AM

I requested a free sample and heard back via eMail from the company and they tried to give me some really low mAH rated piece of crap. I assured them that the big fat cell was the one I wanted and that I really needed 130 mAH. They wanted all sorts of specifics. I told them it was for a small project that involved a radio reciever and some other stuff but that I was under a non-disclosure and couldn't really talk about it. Actually I am under NCA on a lot of stuff. hmm...

Anyhow, We'll see if I get the sample or not.

Axel · #41 10-09-2002, 12:14 PM

Wow, lucky you! I never even heard back from them by e-mail. And no battery yet :-(

Mattydiah · #42 10-09-2002, 12:21 PM

They just asked me how many of each battery I wanted, and what my company did. I just told them I work for a company that makes small bettery operated toys.

Hopefull mine will get here soon.

PT Bruiser · #43 10-10-2002, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Axel
aXon:

For the Li-Ion batteries you'd have to modify the charger to put out exactly 4.2V of power to the battery. For every .1 volt less than that it makes your battery capacity/life go down a ton, and it you go over 4.25V then you blow the battery. That's the only downfall of Li-Ions... they're fragile as heck (and expensive.

Man!! I have to say, I'm totally awed by all the info. on this forum. I found out about Zips from a PT Cruiser forum I participate in. I had NO idea these were that mod-able! Now Im totally stoked. I just went out yesterday to get a longer telescoping antenna for the contoller. I will probably change in out soon. As far as this particular thread goes, I just thought I would tie it in to the A/C to D/C controller mod thread. It seems in that thread, it was discussed one could get an adapter rated at a greater voltage than needed, and then regulate it down to just what was needed. Seeing as these Li-Ion batteries seem pretty unforgiving, this would be the way to go.

At any rate, keep up the teriffic detective work! I've opened my Zip to check it out, but I'm gonna keep glued to this forum before I actually break out a soldering iron! I dont think I have quite the resources you guys do, so I only want to swap batteries once or twice. In the meantime, Im gonna make this Zip loose some weight!!!

Thanks again

ts185r · #44 10-13-2002, 11:49 PM

That's funny, I got a few of them 3.6 volt lit. batteries stiing in front of me on my desk. Now I know what to do with them. I know where I can pick up a few holders for them, and I will. Hmmmm, PT cruiser with a "fuel cell" in the bed?
I'll let ya all know.