Motor windings findings

[neurokinetik]

Originally posted by Deep Blue
Neuro,

If they were red (rather than the typical copper) they may have been coated for arcing, or a double. Or maybe flat wound, or "pyramid" wound.

It definitely wasn't a double. That's easy to see.

[Deep Blue]

Hmmm. There are countless possibilities, and besides that, if you could still keep in pace with one, then there's no use even discussing it I suppose.

[neurokinetik]

Another one to add to the list:

Tamiya Plasma Dash - 27 turns, ~26Ga.

[sherifx]

Originally posted by neurokinetik
Another one to add to the list:

Tamiya Plasma Dash - 27 turns, ~26Ga.

what about current draw?

sherif

[neurokinetik]

In the current draw thread... 1.7A with no load. No wonder it's a FET killer...

[Deep Blue]

Neuro,

Did you experience any spikes with the Plasma? I only ask because a stock Xmod Stage 1 pulls more amps than that at 1.86@no load.

[neurokinetik]

Well, I have been testing the motors exactly the same way every time, and the figure I am getting is after the motor has reached full speed. It is the minimum that the current draw will be. Note that I found stock stage 1s to only draw .26A - .35A. That means the Plasma Dash draws 5.6x as much current as an average stage 1, and 3.5x as much as an average stage 2. That is substantial.

I have a Tamiya speed checker coming, and when I get it, I will do some current draw tests with the motors installed in a car, running on the checker. That should give more useful real world results.

[Deep Blue]

Neuro, that's odd.

I'm doing all of my testing through out the entire rpm range with a Fluke 73 III digital multimeter with the prerequisite auto-range. I wonder where the descrepancy is.

[theMonster]

Hey DB, that's the same meter I have. How are you doing your current draw tests??? I'd like to run some on a few motors and one that I'm winding myself.

[Deep Blue]

Monster, I simply set it to the last mode on the rotary dial, which is Direct Volt Amperage. It's auto-ranging so it will tell you how many Amps you are measuring. From that point I attach the negative lead to the negative terminal on the motor, and positive to positive. Done deal.

From there, just connect a voltage source (battery, PCB, etc) and measure away. If you're going to read it through a PCB, you'll have to apply throttle in order to get a reading.

Good luck.

[neurokinetik]

I really don't think that method is the right way to test current draw... that could account for the discrepancy. The current is supposed to flow directly through the meter, not be calculated from the voltage. (Hence the need for a meter that can handle a decent amount of current. Most Flukes should be able to do it, mine is one of the better RS models.)

[Deep Blue]

Neuro, what method are you using to test amperage?

[theMonster]

b/c the Fluke 73 III is no cheapie. It was a $300 meter, when new. All of Shack's meters are made by Fluke, so we should be able to draw equal conclusions here.

[neurokinetik]

Alright, here's a pic of a motor under test...





You can see on my meter that there are separate inputs for current and voltage measurement. I connect the + wire off my battery pack to the 20A input on the meter, the COM of the meter to the + wire on the motor, then the - wire on the motor to the - on the battery pack to complete the circuit. If you want a schematic, I can draw one. I am using the DC 20A setting on the meter.

[Deep Blue]

Hmmm.....

Although my method is a hell of a lot more convienient, what's right is right. There must be a formula...

What amp draw have you gotten from an FF and/or FK? That should be enough data for me to calculate a formula to figure out the difference.