How to Build a 1/87 Scale RC truck a.k.a.TTTT

[arch2b]

KILLER- your right i didn't know which site thorsten was refering to but it was probably them.

i agree, i would rather spend the time than the money. they could still be good for scavaging parts from as fastboy says. they are cheaper than the other site that sells parts.

fastboy- as killer suggested, could you maybe post a review of the parts you've used from tttt parts.org? you are our resident expert for info on the matter. what are the new gearboxes? bablefish doesn't do a very good job of translating the site and no picutes in thie shop for them.

(if you view the page from google, you can click on the page info menu button and it will translate the entire page for you. well, as best it can really)

[fastboy]

ok
parts ive bought:

40mhz reciever jst mini
rst 300 speedcontroller
7mm micro motors
crystals
micro gears and wormdrives
as i said when the new gearboxes come into stock i will purchase one and review it,there is another site i have seen a cheaper gearbox rated at 1:120 reduction inc 7mm motor priced at around 21 euros..heres the link for building it:

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...2Fwww.micmo.de

and heres the site for buying it..

http://www.mikroantriebe.de/

unfortunately its all in german pdf format,but if you email the site they will reply in english..this site is owned by a friend of peters (the man who owns TTT site)
all the parts on TTT site have pictures...

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...tttt-parts.org


dave
uk

[Thorsten]

Hi,
my "ready to run" powered frontaxle was a prototype of the axle of www.tttt-parts.org .
So my problems with this axle are surely not happen in the actualy axle you can buy there.

But the very best choice will be a selfmade powered front axle of you own.
- More fun while development
- More fun while assembling
- you will feel very good if your axle climb the first hill
- and easier to repair, because you know how it works

best regards

Thorsten

www.mikromodell.de

[arch2b]

i made a little more progress tonight. i cut the front cab piece from the stock frame and cut off some other small pieces and painted them. cutting the the front cab portion wasn't easy. it's very easy to cut to much. i still need to find a glue that will attach some of the detail pieces to the brass frame. will ca glue work?

i found a great work surface while rumaging around at work. it's a 12"x12"x1/4" stone sample, some marble i think, from a project long ago. it works well in preventing myself from burning, drilling, cutting my table. it has a great polished flat surface as well. it's a great improvement over the 4"x4"x1/4" limestone sample which is uneven and a rather soft stone.

i agree with thorsten, whatever you do yourself you take more pride and satisfaction in. however, for first timers such as myself, some of the pre-fab parts can make these projects less daunting.

[Overlander]

Looks great Arch!

Yes, CA glue should be fine. Use the thick stuff to give yourself a few extra seconds to move the parts around. The thin (like water) CA glue sets immediately so if you use that, make sure your parts fit together perfectly the first time...

[killer]

Originally posted by Thorsten

But the very best choice will be a selfmade powered front axle of you own.
- More fun while development
- More fun while assembling
- you will feel very good if your axle climb the first hill
- and easier to repair, because you know how it works

:ö:
yup! that's the best part of it, the first time i finished my driving front axle and test it on my homemade track (parcourse), i was so excited to try it on the part where my 4 x 2 usually get stuck, but man!.. a front driving axle really makes a big difference on performance , and i tried the matchstick trick, where in you drive your truck (my truck is still all chassis) up the matchbox using two macthstick as a ramp, and unlike the 2wheeled truck that tends to push the stick than roll over it, the front driving axle grips on the matchstick and climb on it as if it wasn't there .

Arch,

your trucks looking good!.. yup CA would do the trick, but carefull on applying it and holding such small parts, thin CA dries so fast that if you accidentally touched the parts with CA, it'll stick your hand and its quite hard to remove without damaging the parts.

-æ

[killer]

:ö: here's how i understand how they made the u-joint on the german website, i haven't made or tested one myself, but this looks easier to make than my previous u-joint designs, i'll make one for myself that's for sure..... if my truck could break my "steel joint" first!
-æ

[Overlander]

O.K.

I was busy doing honey-do stuff all weekend and did not have a chance to do much work on the M-1087 project. Here is a pic of my front drive axles as they stand today. This is the easy part. I am using all NWSL parts. They sell a little sprue of acetyl resin dogbones and sockets. The shafts are 1.5mm and the O.D. of the socket is 3.5mm. Now comes the challenging part; the knuckles.

Killer, if you are looking at this you are probably thinking, "hey, that guy is cheating!!" Well I always say, "work smarter, not harder"

[Overlander]

Really, I'm just lazy Killer

Your u-joints are intimidateing me What kind of tool did you use to cut the slits in the 2mm rod?

[killer]

Originally posted by Overlander
Really, I'm just lazy Killer

Your u-joints are intimidateing me What kind of tool did you use to cut the slits in the 2mm rod?

:ö:
thanks Overlander!, hey those are nice looking joints! , the tool i use to cut the slit on the 2mm rod is a cutting disc i bought from a Dental Supply Shop which cost around ¢11 each, it is as thick as a credit card, but can cut through metal!(am not sure where dentist use this .. dogbones are cool, but during my 1/10 scale off-road rc days, i'd prefer u-joints than dogbones because i experience "chattering" during hard cornering, and it minimise the cost of buying spare dogbones (i always lost one or two on every jump) but hey!, a 1/87 rc truck hardly slides on corner ! so why bother making a u-joint if you can buy a dogbone! -

æ

[arch2b]

well, i had an hour tonight to work on my project. i managed to get the rear axel mounts done. i used 1/8"x1/8" brass tube. i dremeled out a little over an 8th of an inch on both sides and bent one flange down on either side. i plan on drilling holes to screw the truck bed through the frame and the rear axel mounts. my intention is to make the rear axel serviceable, as well as getting the most out of each screw. i scared the frame where the axels should line up.

[killer]

:ö: cool Arch, so far so goood -æ

[killer]

:ö:

[killer]

underside view..

[killer]

if you run out of battery and you still want to have more fun!! plug in a freshly charged one!