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  #16  
Old 02-21-2003, 02:50 PM
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This might be obvious, but....

Okay, most of you are going to know this already, but for those who don't....

If you are running your cars in your house, the kitchen is not the best place to run them. The fridge puts out massive interference, and will really screw with your control.

The same is probably true of your air-conditioner unit.

If you seriously want to test your controller's range, make sure that the car and controller are both well away from potential sources of interference.
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2003, 02:52 PM
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Re: This might be obvious, but....

Quote:
Originally posted by dougal
Okay, most of you are going to know this already, but for those who don't....

If you are running your cars in your house, the kitchen is not the best place to run them. The fridge puts out massive interference, and will really screw with your control.

The same is probably true of your air-conditioner unit.

If you seriously want to test your controller's range, make sure that the car and controller are both well away from potential sources of interference.
dougal, you're right and don't forget about electric heater units too (speaking from experience).
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  #18  
Old 02-21-2003, 02:53 PM
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hes got a good point there possibly. tho i work in a huge room with 50+ computers and 19in monitors and have no range issues.

tho my friends shop with tons of electronics stuff everywhere tends to give poorer reception than my house or my work.
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  #19  
Old 02-21-2003, 03:51 PM
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Computers put out *some* interference, but it's nothing compared to the EM put out by the motors in a fridge or a/c unit. Motors are noisy!
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  #20  
Old 02-21-2003, 05:54 PM
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Removeing the crip caps from my Bit Char-G, increased my range from five feet to 20. Took me literally seconds. Seems like all advantage to me.

Hogjowls, you've said that beside your Microsizer, you just buy clones, maybe if you had a Bit Char-G that only works stutter free a couple feet away from the controller, you would be more gung ho to clip off those capacitors, that have been obviously added after the circuit was built, to get the thing working the way it was designed, and before you crucify me for buying a Bit, and not a Cyclona, I bought the Bit because at the time they were going for less than Microsizers on ebay, and I already had one bad experience with a clone, so I didn't want to buy 20 different clones to find a good brand, so I got a Bit, and the range sucked, but I removed the crip caps, it works great, and I'm happy. Why should that bother you?


**Forgot to mention my Bit is a 35mhz Skyline set, never had a problem with my 27mhz cars. I assume it is a newer one as i bought it in January, and according to the Quest for Madness website, the older ones don't have have the crip caps. The crip cap first showed up on the the controller, then the one to the car was added. My Microsizer Sport did not have one in the controller, but it did have one in the car. just removeing the one from the car does not help much. I don't reccomend removeing that one unless you know what your doing, but for me it was no big deal to remove, far from ruining anything.
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  #21  
Old 02-21-2003, 06:25 PM
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I agree with hog, the 3rd cell in the remote does wonders! I took my car to school to day, and my friends and I were playing with it in the cafeteria. My friend ended up driving my duel cell clone all the way across the cafeteria, I almost couldn't lost/find it!!!!

3rd cell is the BEST range mod!!!!!!
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  #22  
Old 02-21-2003, 06:32 PM
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Still everyone I have yet to find a track thats longer than 12 feet long.

Until then I'm not modding anything to do with range.
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  #23  
Old 02-21-2003, 06:35 PM
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does outside count as a track?
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  #24  
Old 02-21-2003, 06:46 PM
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nope
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  #25  
Old 02-21-2003, 07:11 PM
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I have a Yellow S2000 char g, it had no cap in the controller, but there was one on the pcb of the car.

But Im not scared of Surface mount, cos I've changed the leds in many mobile phones, and they are small!

I dont know about all the cat 5 lark, but removing the crip cap in the car definitely worked for me!


My new LXX Auto Modellista 45mhz has a minimum of 26 foot, (INDOORS, not tested out yet) which I measured an hour ago, to a little bit further than that.

It all depends on the interference around you, the power of the transmitter, and a little on the juice in the car.

But at 30 foot, u can not easily see it!
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  #26  
Old 02-21-2003, 07:14 PM
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when i said minimum, i meant that was the least i got at that test, it would prob b diff if I had 10 washing machines, 20 fridges, and 1 radio station in my house! lol.

I dont worry about range with my new lxx, thats the most important point!

Better range= fast motors dont put it out of that range so quick= speed!
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  #27  
Old 02-21-2003, 07:20 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: why do you guys keep doing range mods that dont work?

Quote:
Originally posted by kwikbb
The Supra was the last New car that I had gotten and it had it, that was a few months back when it was first released, and have yet to get an actual MS... so it could very well be possible that the newer MS don't have them.

Agreed that particular mod is really reserved for 'Soldering Vets', no one should just jump into that one! The consequence's of a an error could be devistating.

err i dont think you gotta be a soldering vet, i did that mod with my friend it was the first time i held a soldering iron before in my life. all you need is to melt the metal attached to the brown chip and have your friend scrape off the chip with a screwdriver then touch it up when you're done. it took maybe 1 minutes, the longest part was waiting for the iron to heat up.
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  #28  
Old 02-21-2003, 07:25 PM
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With my 27 MHZ ZipZap in my house (TONS of electronics) it gets kinda crappy range. I can get ok range outside.
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  #29  
Old 02-21-2003, 07:46 PM
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Re: why do you guys keep doing range mods that dont work?

Quote:
Originally posted by Heat
err i dont think you gotta be a soldering vet, i did that mod with my friend it was the first time i held a soldering iron before in my life. all you need is to melt the metal attached to the brown chip and have your friend scrape off the chip with a screwdriver then touch it up when you're done. it took maybe 1 minutes, the longest part was waiting for the iron to heat up.
Good for you Heat! You were fortunate with your attempt... which can't be said for some people who have tried it.

It's a word of caution, meant to be a tip NOT a Deterrent for those who would try it.
Most people don't screw up their car beyond repair by doing a telescopic mod, that's what makes this particular mod more advanced.
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  #30  
Old 02-21-2003, 08:02 PM
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I'm glad this topic was started because I've decided to boost the range of my custom multi frequency controller....

I have a couple questions that I hope someone can answer: first off, how much voltage can you put into a controller before frying it?

Say when you're doing a 3rd cell mod(adding a 1.5v to the controller) do you need to use a resistor or just wire it in series with the other 2 cells?

Also, anyone know of a creative way of fitting another battery into a microsizer controller? I really don't want to get an add on battery pack if I don't have to. I've looked into a 9v mod, but I can't find the diode that is needed to kick the voltage down (link to site here: http://members.aol.com/rchelicam/microszr/microszr.htm) -see the section on that page called: "Home on the Range".
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