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  #16  
Old 12-14-2002, 09:34 PM
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I think he meant 10 tooth when he said 10T - 10 turn would be crazy!
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  #17  
Old 12-14-2002, 11:46 PM
dgilpin dgilpin is offline
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That is what I assumed, too, utill I saw binaryterror's post!
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  #18  
Old 12-16-2002, 02:48 AM
e_lm_70 e_lm_70 is offline
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Yeph ... I was meaning 10T pinion ... my F1 has till the original PCB ... just got now the 7389 going to update the PCB soon !

About range ... my Mini-X was having less range them my Bit ! So what I did and has turned to work very fine ... it is just to let the antenna go out straight from the RX ... made a hole ín the front (close to the left mirror) and the range is 5x now ... maybe even more ! Defenetly the standard position for antenna made the range very poor. ... I guess that now the range is close or more then a Mini-Z

For the TX I found out that the Epoch TX with throttle set to L it will work fine with the Mini-X, but the control is not as smoth like the Mini-Z.

At the end the Mini-X now isn't so bad ... but it was far to be a RTR ... it was just RTF (read to freak).

I till have to tried out it on track and see if my Mini-X can get closer to the WWS them my Mini-Z F1.

e_lm_70

P.S: Where I can found the Neo-Magnet for put in tze Mini-X ? I guess it should be the same of Mini-Z ... but not 100% sure where I can found them for a reasonable price from Austria !
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2002, 03:45 AM
e_lm_70 e_lm_70 is offline
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Sobh ... I burn my 4WD motor !

I just run (pretty intensive I have to say) 1/2 charge , over a super flat and sliding surface !

The connection between batteries and ESC got in fire !

Luckily the ESC is till alive ... the motor in the best case must be re-winded .

I put my 2WD motor in now ... I have to order a (better some) 4WD motors.

Also my 2WD is getting hot ... too much hot !

I have bearing around the diff ... I don't know if I have bearing around weels (no nut screewer for remove and check/replace) ... I was having bearing in the front axe holder !

The only things that I can guess could help are: Bearing motor case and Neo-Magnet ...

Again ... where I can find neo-Magnet ?

I also believe that 6cell is maybe too much for the motor.

I also think that it will be better have a 6T pinion and a 36T diff ... to lower down the gear ...

Or re-wind the motor with better wire and 80/90T ...

Again the X is not more a RTF is a RTB (read to burn) .

OK ok the 2 minutes that the car has runned properly it was cool fast and stable ! Got a new TX that has double range a no more problem for the ESC .

e_lm_70

P.S: I didn't lubb the diff ... but it should only effect the stability ... not the resitance for the engine !
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2002, 11:06 AM
dgilpin dgilpin is offline
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Well, even if you don't lube them, at least loosen the diffs. For whatever reason, most of them are way too tight. And that does put a load on the motor.

I think you had a poor connection. That will fry a motor, too.

The Neo magnets are here (in the US):

http://mini-zracer.com/shop/product.php?pid=441

I ran mine with the Neo magnets and full bearings (motor, too) this weekend. I used two lithiums (8+ volts at the start) - and the motor barely got warm! I ran it as hard as I could outside. But I do keep the diffs loose - just enough to slip somtimes from a dead stop upon full throttle.

New problem with the Neo magnets - it picks up all kinds of fragments from the ground! They are so strong that the whole Mini-x with batteries will stick to the side of my truck and stay there!

As far as I know, you keep using the 8T pinion with any of the three diffs.
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  #21  
Old 12-17-2002, 11:28 AM
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OK thanks for the Magnet link...any idea about the motor can with bearings?

Thanks in advance!
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  #22  
Old 12-17-2002, 11:35 AM
e_lm_70 e_lm_70 is offline
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Not sure that if the lithiums bat can provide the same Amp of NiMh !

It is easy to found Bearing for motor cam , or bearing motor case ... got mine from Dinb.....l There are even cheaper place like http ://mryung. ofhk.net/ minizworkshop/

I have a second Mini-X till to be completed (got in 3 parts) ... who knows if I will manage to not destroy the my last 4WD motor !

But I can't understand how it is possible that the 2WD motor get hot .... !

Have to remove the nuts to see if there is something wrong in the weels !

P.S: I have loosen the two diff ... not too much otherwise I will have lost the traction completly !
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  #23  
Old 12-17-2002, 06:38 PM
dgilpin dgilpin is offline
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The lithiums did manage to burn out my first motor back when it was stock otherwise. So I know that the magnets and bearings have made some difference. Other factors could be the cooler weather and the added heatsink, both of which help also.

I think the 130 motors are simply too small for this car - either in 4wd or 2wd. I think you can take the front diff and dogbones out when in 2wd mode to remove some drag. Maybe version 3.0 will at least have a larger motor!
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  #24  
Old 12-18-2002, 02:53 AM
e_lm_70 e_lm_70 is offline
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Sure in 2WD I have removed front Diff & DogBone !
No bearing motor ... no heatsink ! 6Cell and till getting very hot !

I build up my second X ... the Servo was a defected one ... had to take it from my first.

I had full bearing ... motor bearing ... 5cell ... I lubb the diffs ... and at beginning I was happy that it was not going to get hot ... but after 3/4 minutes start to get hot ... and after it get hot , no way how slow you can drive it till get hot and hotter ... so I stopped before kill my last 4WD ... sobh even with 5 cell !

Since I drive for testing inside my flat ... I test with fast acceleration and strong brake (using reverse) maybe the change from full power forward to full power backward make the engine overheating ... or just brake the engine just a little to make it getting fast hot !

Nice surprise ... on my X Body only set ... I found out that the diff were already with a spacer (also on the rear ... that it is not necessary)
My RTR set was not having spacer in the diff !

In my opinion the main problem of the mini X is that the gearing it is too direct for a standard 130 motor !
Sure with a 180 motor it should have less problem ... and in theory there is also the space for it ! ... lets hope for the Version 3 !


e_lm_70

P.S: Can you post a pic of your heatsink ... I will try to find one similar !
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  #25  
Old 12-18-2002, 04:52 AM
deviant deviant is offline
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i found a heatsink @ tower hobbies made for tamiya dangun racers... they use 130 motors... i am going to try it out...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXWT60&P=7

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  #26  
Old 12-18-2002, 05:06 AM
e_lm_70 e_lm_70 is offline
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Danke

It look good ... and it should fit perfectly as well !

... I guess it will cost me far more shipments then the goods !

... Maybe I will better put my Mini-X on eBay ... and forget about the crap !

e_lm_70

P.S: Car will need as well an intake air !

PP.SS: But I can also wait that the lake in front of my house freeze ... so I can just put needels tires and I will not have any more problems !

PPP.SSS: Mini-X is the RC ready to smoke a Mini-Z ... with the smoke comming straight out of the engine ! ... more I think about my Mini-X ... more I want a ABC x4 !
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  #27  
Old 12-28-2002, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by binaryterror
OK thanks for the Magnet link...any idea about the motor can with bearings?

Thanks in advance!
http://mini-zracer.com/shop/product.php?pid=312



dgilpin, glad the neos and BB can worked well for you, that's great!
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  #28  
Old 12-28-2002, 04:25 PM
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deviant, that looks like it could work! Let us know, we'll stock them if it works well!
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