(LONG)Another Motor To try "Nurelco Mustache Trimmer" - Page 2

Cyfiawnder · #16 12-10-2003, 05:58 AM

Well I turned my rear bumper into a 5th cell mount. Makes a pretty big difference. IF you pick up the car and gun it you can actually see and feel the tires stretch out. Now I just have to figure out a better way to keep the 5th cell in (better than a piece of electricle tape). I also put thicker wiring in for the fith cell. All the wiring is about 3 times thicker than the stock gauge wire. Not sure of either the stock wire gauge or the new wire gauge( i had it sitting around) so I'm not writing gauge numbers down. As a comparison of size say the stock wire was as thick as a standard wooden #2 pencile. The new wire is as thick as a Standard Black Magic Marker.

TypeZer0 · #17 12-10-2003, 09:50 AM

any pics of your bumper with built in battery holder?

Cyfiawnder · #18 12-10-2003, 03:21 PM

Sorry Don't have a digital camera to take pics with. It not hard to imagine. Just look at you bumper then imagine the "poles" froma battery holder glued into it... The problem I'm still faced ith is keeping the battery in there. EVerytime I hit something hard it pops right out... then of course the car won't go anywhere because the circuit has been broken.

TypeZer0 · #19 12-10-2003, 05:25 PM

i see, i just wanted to see how much clearance you had. it's aight, i'll just fool around with the placement

Cyfiawnder · #20 12-11-2003, 03:25 AM

Ok well FYI I'm using the supra Body. The battery will fit in the bumper. I was thinking about moving to just behind the Plastic piece that comes off of the body and clips into the rear of the chassis. Or even Better adding a 6th Cell to that possition and leaving the bat thats in the bumper right where it is...

Cyfiawnder · #21 12-11-2003, 06:54 AM

Ok I advanced the timing on the Armature. It was set like 30 degress Clockwise after dead-center so I set it to like 20 Degress Conterclockwise before dead-center. Wow what a Difference that made. I don't think it has quite as much torque... but It has a lot more top end!

I have a question what are the resistors for on the xmods motors? Are they to protect the Motor from too much voltage or are they to protect the car from too much amperage? On the motor I have now all they do is slow it down about 50%. With them on the motor goes "wurruurrruurrruurr" but When I took the resistors off and just straight soldered the connectors to the endbell the motor goes "WWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE." I left them off

So I decided that I should clean all the stuff out of my car's moving parts today. Wow what a defference! I cleaned all the long blond hairs off of the axles and I took all the bearing out and degressed them then lubed them back up with Teflon Lubricant. I cleaned all the "schmootz" out of the gearing and lubed the gears up too. Now it is like 200% quieter and 25% faster than it was before I cleaned all the crap out of it... I was suprised at the ammount of crap stuck in my car. Only one cat comes in my room. Hair from all of the cats was in my car. The dog never comes in my room, it still had dog hair in it. My Long Blond Haired fiance was the owner of most of the hair in my car... and I think I found a scale from one of my mothers Koi in there too...

TypeZer0 · #22 12-11-2003, 07:12 AM

that brown disk and the black tube are capacitors and they're there to suppress noise that would interfere with the radio. you'll probably just lose some range. i don't see how it should affect speed though

Cyfiawnder · #23 12-12-2003, 03:49 AM

The nurelco motor I used came out of what would commonly be called "clippers." Like what stylists use to do "edging" work. I say stylist because my Fiance is a liscensed cosmotologist, if I say barber I get beat which isn't all that bad

I suggest if you are thinking about taking something appart for it's motor ask yourself some questions... Will I ever want to use this again? If so Is it possible to take it appart without permanently breaking it? Will my mom/dad get mad if I take appart her/his leg/facial-hair shaver?

neurokinetik · #24 12-12-2003, 11:47 AM

The Team Orion stock motor for the Micro RS4 is a FK-180SH. It differs from the motor you are decribing only in its intended voltage range. I picked one up locally for $13. As soon as my wire arrives, I will be rewinding the armature, going for some serious top speed.

Here is the datasheet on that motor:

http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-b...AT_ID=fk_180sh

...and here is the datasheet for the motors used in the Norelco beard trimmer. I'd be very concerned about those high current draws on the stock electronics, and it also sounds like the brushes will not hold up under the 4.8-6V range like they will in the FK-180SH.

http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-b..._ID=ff_180phsh

Cyfiawnder · #25 12-14-2003, 03:57 AM

Well the hybrid mubachi/nurelco-Mura motor started making funny noises so i took the endbell off and what was left of the brushes fell out. So I took an old spin brush pro can with magnets and armature, unwound the armature, unwound the Nurelco motor armature (the red wire) and put 18 turns of the red wire around the SBP armature. I used the brushes and end bell from one of my stage two motors and gave it a wirl. Man was that thing fast! It was... for about 20 seconds until it made this awful sound and stopped dead... one of my solders on the Comuter (or whatever its called) broke off at full rpm and made a mess of things... broke the comuter cought on one of the magnets and twisted the armature plates. The brushes were still good though... Cheap Rosin Core RS junk Solder! Oh well I have an armature with a bent shaft but a good comuter so after I disect that everything should be just grand...

Right now I have the stage two Blue Motor with the Stage 2 red gear. Pretty darned fast with the 5th cell... Drifts like a mofo.

Deep Blue · #26 12-19-2003, 02:01 PM

Quote:

that brown disk and the black tube are capacitors and they're there to suppress noise that would interfere with the radio. you'll probably just lose some range. I don't see how it should affect speed though

Actually the brown "pill" is a capacitor, and the black cylinder is 10 micro farad 16v capable Diode, which is trash. Replacing/removing either of them will show a benefit in more voltage getting to the terminal(s) rather than wasting that voltage in a system that bounces trickles of it from one terminal to another, etc. You will definitely lose some range, and also chip away at the motor's longevity by a slight amount.

Neuro, the FK180 isn't 100% the stock motor in an RS4. In some cases, its the FF180sh, and the occasional FF180ph.

Cyfia, those cheap "precious metal" (I don't see what's so precious about those POS's) brushes in the RS motors are absolute trash and would never take the abuse of a high-rev 180. You'd have been replacing those brushes in no time anyway. Especially with that 5th cell. There's a ton of motors that come stock with carbon brushes (like the FK180). May be worth it to get your hands on one.