must get pn-racing speedy practice motor!!!

3series takumi · #1 06-17-2003, 02:02 AM

if you own a minix you MUST! purchase a pn-racing speedy motor. it has to be the most well balanced motor i have tried!!! it is like it was made just for this car and keeps better battery life than the tamiya motors. i would advise using 5 or more cells unless you have really good batteries. i till stall trying to go from a stop cause of a voltage drop (it could just be my novak xxxl receiver not gettin the power it needs). when i get my cam all up and running i will try and post a video of me killing my friends xspeed powered miniz. not even his s02 will help him.

speed, power, 4wd...what more can you ask for

my next purchase for this rs4 micro killer will be the LRP Quantom Micro ESC. has ABS braking and recharges the cells when you break (how cool is that!) plus it has no motor limit, and they really mean that! only problem is that it is goin to set me back around $80. thats almost the cost the the minix rtr :P

YOU ALL MUST GET THAT MOTOR!! I think i only paid $14 plus shipping

binaryterror · #2 06-17-2003, 07:07 AM

This motor has the long shaft to keep the 4wd working?

Where is a link?

3series takumi · #3 06-17-2003, 05:53 PM

no long shaft, "it was made for it" meant that it has great torque and tons of speed. the motor is actually made for the mini-z. to keep the 4wd i made an extension of the shaft. i made a collar that fits over the little nub end of the motor and stuck a metal rod the same diameter as the regular rod in the other end. included is a picture of the first motor i did it to, it is a hyperdash 2 arm in a regular can) if you can see the little extension goes into the can a little. so that it has room i put a bearing 6X3 in the endball and the collar fits snuggly in it to keep everything centered and smooth

3series takumi · #4 06-17-2003, 05:54 PM

a pic of the end bell

3series takumi · #5 06-17-2003, 05:59 PM

last is a pic of the rod with the little extension piece. you can do this with any motor, i just use the same can and endbell and just swap the arms. it doesnt slip but after a while it will so a little dab of glue will fix that up. but even that will wear after a while if you have a high torque motor. when i get he chance i want to try a metal collar of some sort and maybe try and get that rod at the end not so smooth so it wont have a problem with gripping.

if you have any ideas or think that i am a fool and that i am goin to hurt somethin please reply with your thoughts

Hooters Driver · #6 06-18-2003, 04:27 PM

You may have unkowingly solved one of the biggest problems with the mini-x.

When the chassis of a mini-x flexes it causes a bind on the motor shaft that leads to motor overheating. If you make your coupling device out of something flexible (small surgical tubing CA glued between the shafts???) it should act basically like a u-joint which will alleviate the the binding and reduce the motor overheating. And as an added bonus you can use any aftermarket performance motor.

Good Job takumi!

3series takumi · #7 06-18-2003, 04:56 PM

wow i didnt think of that, i use a brace to keep the chassis from flexing but now i can get rid of that extra piece. i was not even thinking about addin a flex joint right there, i was just tryin to get my motor 4wd :P. but thanx

i think i will switch to the tubing or maybe some shrink tube to add more flex to it

binaryterror · #8 06-18-2003, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Hooters Driver
You may have unkowingly solved one of the biggest problems with the mini-x.

When the chassis of a mini-x flexes it causes a bind on the motor shaft that leads to motor overheating. If you make your coupling device out of something flexible (small surgical tubing CA glued between the shafts???) it should act basically like a u-joint which will alleviate the the binding and reduce the motor overheating. And as an added bonus you can use any aftermarket performance motor.

Good Job takumi!

Umm this may cause some of the overheating issue, but alot of it was solved when i changed my stock X's can to the Squat BB can which also has neo magnets. Neo mags have more power thus making the motor run cooler. Also the BB's make the motor spin faster and more free!

I Do like the idea Takumi had....and i may try it@

3series takumi · #9 06-18-2003, 11:48 PM

i had a bbcan and neo mags too, but wasnt fast. the neos added alot of torque but without the gears it didnt work out for me. with the shaft mod you can still use your bb can but you get to run way faster motors. when i put in the pn-racing motor i had to relearn how to drive the car. the area i use to have fun in became too small of an area to run. i take to the streets now. now that i am done talkin crap to all the people at the LHS you should be seein some vids of my X with some 1/18 and or some 1/10 scale cars cause it can keep up! and a tight turn for those cars is a wide turn for a 1/24th :P i just have to get my cam runnin. i swear you get one thing workin nice then the other thing breaks!

miketre · #10 09-01-2003, 02:05 PM

What did u use to make the plastic collar?
What glue are you using to re-inforce the plastic collar?

I'm still contemplating between your method and re-winding the stock motor with 45 turns or so and adding a fat commutator.

Thanks

3series takumi · #11 09-01-2003, 04:00 PM

the plastic thing is a an extra pinion gear. i ordered them thinkin i was goin to get a few and i got 8. i use gorilla glue for the bond. i found that you can also use shrink tube instead of that plastic. if you use a little over a cm of it you shouldnt need any glue at all. but there has to be that bearing in the end bell for both ways of doin it

ben1112 · #12 02-05-2004, 05:51 AM

can i know what servo are you using>?

3series takumi · #13 02-05-2004, 03:59 PM

hitec hs51 i think it is a feather servo for gliders. works great and looks tight ;p

3series takumi · #14 02-05-2004, 04:08 PM

oh wait maybe it is a hs55... its the only blue one

SupraDJ · #15 02-06-2004, 02:10 AM

yeah its the hs55.