ok i bored and i put together the biggest painting tips from tinyRC members and put who said it.
if u want to find out where i got it i searched for "paint jobs"
feel free to add your own tips cuz i might of missed some tips
viperkilla said...
"To paint your cars here is my method to painting it.
1. Clean off the body with some soap and water. Then let it dry.
2. Mask off the parts you dont want to paint.
3. Spray some primer on it
4. Spray a few light coats of paint.
5. Let it dry
As to making racing stripes, I have heard people using electrical tape.
As for what color you should paint it, its just personal preference."
Bad Company said...
well it needs its own
thread
ccp said...
"step1 mask the car
step2 sand the car
step3 clean the car try to get your finger grease off and any sand dust and make sure its totally dry before you prime or shoot your basecoat.
BE ONE WITH THE CAR
step4 if you use primer nows the time to shoot the primer shoot it in light even coats from like 8 to 10 inches away dont try to prime the whole car
in 2 coats you'll have trouble ie primer not sticking to the car and primer runs or sags.
step5 leave your car alone let it dry dont rush it follow the directions for drying time on the primer can .
step6 lightly scuff primer your basecoat (the color your painting your car) needs something to grip to.
step7 if your really picky nows the time to pull all your masking tape off and remask it AGAIN.
step8 follow step3
step9 time to paint just remember take your time light even dusting of basecoat 8inches away the basecoat needs time to flash (dry) between coats
if you dont let it flash you'll have trouble.
step10 let it dry 1 to 2 hrs it depends on how warm it is.
step11 pull your masking off the windows but leave your lights masked if your going to clearcoat your car.
step12 shoot your clearcoat the same way as you shot your basecoat dont rush it.
step13 let her dry peel the remaining masking tape off and put her back together .
step14 have fun and i hope your paint job turn out killer
theses steps work for me iam not saying this is the only way to paint your Xmod it really depends on what kind of paint your using
ie waterbase,acrylic,enamals or automotive paints.
so if i missed anything please feel free to ad to the steps"
major skyline said...
"For my supra i used an airbush. i started with a coat of testors primer then i wet sanded it with 800 grit wet/dry sand paper
then anotyer coat of primer, more sanding, then 2 caots of testor gloss black, then 5 coays of timaya cc.
for the hood i used testors flat black painted it on really thick then took a dry brush and drug it across diagonally
then airbrushed on another coat after that dried to get that carbon fiber look.
i think it came out pretty good check it out at"
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread...15&pagenumber=8
sessiz10 said...
"My first go with the pactra was pretty bad. I attribute this to..
1. Not using a primer at all.
2. Not sanding enough of the factory finish off first.
3. Plain old lazyness
I use the krylon crystal clear acyrilic spray for my clearcoats.
Cheap and very effective. (Not recomended for enamel paints though)"
"I keep the lights and emblem and anything else I want left untouched by masking them with tape.
I have 3 rolls of that blue trim tape left over from when I was painting the house and find that it's excellent. No bleeding what so ever.
You could use plain ole masking tape but you gotta make sure you've got the edges pressed firmly before you start painting or else you risk a bleed or two
shaneomac326 said...
"1) clean it down good a tack rag works great
2) Tape what you don't want painted
3) Scuf it down with a scuf pad a fine scuf pad so you don't hurt the platic
4) Prime it 2 times let it dry
5) put the paint to it like three times. It will not hurt it"
magneto said...
"(stay away from any dusty areas, it will be the death of your paint)
1) soap and water to remove any grime or dirt particles (when removing the factory paint, it can scratch the body
2) Testor 800 grain (red transparent color) sand paper. use this with some water, and the factory "paint" job is just a clear coat over the the red plastic body. you want to just remove that clear coat to give you some very light texture to grab. You will notice the body looks drab and dull (milky red, I had a red supra) when you get the clear coat off.
3) clean the body again to remove and clear coat particles
4) shoot the body in a base coat (you won't need primer at this point). I usually shoot black and make sure you do very tiny coats (spray #1 - half coat thickness, spray #2 - half coat thickness).
5) when you let those two dry (give at least 6 hours each (depending on the paints you use). Check for blemishes and if you have some, use the real thin sand paper to just sand as little as possible to remove the blemish. Re apply another coat if needed.
6) you are ready to shot your paints now. Remember, the more light coats you have, the better. This will give a depth to your paint, but trust me you won't see it until the end.
7) I shot around 3 light base coats and 6 light body coats. Remeber, you don't want heavy paint on your car, it makes it look bloated. Once again, you won't really notice the bloating until you hit the last step, which is the clear coat.
8) Water Base Clear Coat - Best stuff to use and I'll give you the biggest reason: If you screw up, you have a chance to wipe it off with a little water (and as long as all your paint is dry and it's good paint, you shouldn't ruin your color coats at all). You need to let the clear coat dry twice as long as the normal paint due to it's reaction with water. If you don't let it fuse with the paint, then you even get a spec of water, and it will bead the clear coat.
Once you let it dry, just wait till you see how amazing the paint looks after that clear coat is dry.
Hope this gave you an idea on how to paint your car."
testors paint
http://www.testors.com/
dragon4450 said...
"i have noticed with testors spray cans that the paint will keep a tacky feeling for awhile.
and no the paint does not harden.
i would sugest going to like walmart or the like and picking up some dupli-color clear paint.
i will give it a nice hard shell but it can still be scrached like a real paint job on a car. dipli-color for tose that dont know is made by dupont.
you know the guys that make just about every paint that body shops use."
neurokinetik said...
"My RSX paint felt "soft" even after a week. I think it's a characteristic of the enamel type paints. As someone else pointed out,
The Testors paint tends to be thick. If you were airbrushing, you'd thin it before spraying it, ut if you are using a spray can,
obviously that option is out the window.
I think the method of placing the can in a glass of warm water before you spray is a good idea, and might help a bit here."
mbartell said...
"Testors paint is a little soft. I always try to put it on really really thin- like mist a cloud over the bodyfrom 2 feet away.
Keep doing this untill it gets a solid coat.
Painting is a lot of technique, kind of hard for me to explain. I've just been doing it for years.
before you put diffrent brands of spray paint n top of each other, make a test peice- like a spare spoiler,
a chunk of packaging or whatever, and make sure the paints are compatable. Diffrent brands have diffrent chemicals in them, and some attack each other.
You don't want to spend days (or months) preparing a custom body, and ruin it after 10 layers of paint by putting on the wrong clear."
Also, you don't want a primer that won't hold your paint, and will let the color coat peel straight off."
neurokinetik also said...
"I used Testors spray paint on mine. It got a decent finish, but an airbrush would have given a more controlled application.
I kind of had to choose between spatters and way too thick.
I chose way too thick and have a couple of runs in the paint, but not that bad.
Masking the windows and everything else (epsecially all the grilles on th body kit pieces) isn't much fun, and its hard to avoid a little bit of seepage.
I will have to touch up the black in a couple of spots on mine as a result, though the windows came out nice."
97PrizmLsi said...
"I used Testor's Model Master rattle cans from Hobby Bench...god the paint turned out horrible. The project is soaking in paint thinner right now..
The body is salvagable though..I am definetely going for something that is not enamel. I bought 1 bottle of Tamiya paint (the brush on)
and the consistency is so much better..
I know it will work. Only if I can find the cans. Makes me sad because I put 2 days into the paint job. I didn't primer..maybe that would of helped.
I did around 5 coats out of 2 cans of the spray.
The paint was runny and in the end it was just thick and peeled off."
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(Undecided) Custom Rims
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