Supplies and tools
Battery Pack
2 x 10430 lithium ion cells with tabs, or 10440’s
3/16” heat shrink for battery wires.
37mm shrink wrap
Team Losi Micro-T connector set.
Soldering Iron and solder
Chassis Mod
Rotory tool with ¼” drum sanding wheel.
½ round or rattail file.
Glue, either epoxy or CA
I recommend building at least two battery packs one 2s 7.4 volt pack for all out speed and one 2P 3.7 volt pack for extended runtimes and control, you wont be disappointed
10430 Lithium Ion cells are 10mm x 43mm’s or 10 x 44mm for 10440’s, AAA size. I recommend getting cells with tabs to keep the packs as short as possible since the ends of the pack will stick out a couple of millimeters on each side of the chassis.
When building the packs insure that the connector and wire are at least 1 ¾ inches long,
by using cells with long tabs this is easy since you just solder the wire to the tabs and use the 3/16” heat shrink to cove the wire connection and tab as it runs along the side of the battery. After soldering the connecting tabs together it doesn’t hurt to use a piece of tape to insulate them as you fold them flat. You will need to make sure your wires and tabs fit in the V-groove between the cells so that the pack with heat shrink is no more than 11mm thick and 21mm wide.
After you have your battery pack, glue and screw the battery cover permanently in place. Then use the rotor tool and file to cut out ovals exactly the size of the battery pack on each side of the battery compartment, which is why I recommend making the battery packs first, so you can insure you get a snug (not loose) fit.
I also recommend using the file when you start cutting through the metal posts since the rotary tool will heat them up enough to melt the plastic. As an easier option you can take the posts out and not screw the bottom cover on but the glue alone will not be as strong.
Once you have your holes you’re done, it’s that easy.
The great thing is that the battery packs can be changed in seconds since they slide right in and push back out.
Cheers from lbrc
Edit:
The weather cleared so I finally got in some good rough terrain, hilly, off road battery sucking tests. I managed to overheat the 7.4 volt 2s pack fairly easily in the stock car causing it to turn into a slug, however the 3.7v 600mAh 2p pack was amazing, just picture a Micro-T pulling a little road kill action on the Energizer Bunny. In the ball bearing equiped brushless car the same 7.4 volt 2s pack did not overheat under identical conditions.
So the success and your enjoyment of a 7.4 volt 2s Li-Ion pack will depend heavily on your car and the driving conditions.
Threaded Mode
