Heads or Tails? How about both! A bright idea.

#1 10-22-2002, 02:14 AM

LED lights on my honda in southern california!

2 - bi polor green yellow led
2 - clear/red led
2 - 135 ohm resistors (one for headlights one for tail lights)
1 - 3 volt lithim

Had to use the resistors or only two would light up at a time.
So fun to drive in the kitchen during midnight snack!

MTL · #2 10-22-2002, 02:31 AM

jee what a creative screen name you have
[/joke]

anyways..thats pretty nice

tinyrc · #3 10-23-2002, 05:21 PM

Nice lights!

Linuxx01 · #4 10-29-2002, 06:12 PM

where did you buy the materials? for your LED system =0) i wanna add ground LED

Nightwing · #5 10-29-2002, 07:20 PM

COOL!

Dutch · #6 10-29-2002, 08:48 PM

I like it

#7 10-30-2002, 10:27 PM

Mostly at the Shack I bought the 20 pack of assorted LEDs $2.50 there. In it i found the tail lights.
3mm clear that glow red that worked for the tail lights
used a 3 volt lithium I had about 2 bucks,
but not for the head lights....
I had the got to electronics parts store down town and buy a 2 pack for about $1.60 of the green/ yellow LEDs bi polor just because I did not know what color i wanted. green looked best. and some resistors a four pack for a buck.

Note: LEDs are sensitive. I burned out a head light with my soldering iron but now I know I should of used a heat sink. The tweeser looking things in the pic. oh well back to the electronics parts store.

Nightwing · #8 10-30-2002, 11:40 PM

If you dont mind. What is the wattage of your iron?

#9 10-31-2002, 12:13 AM

just look!

Nightwing · #10 10-31-2002, 12:27 AM

Thats why it fried the LED. 15 to 20 is pritty good for most PCboard wiring. But you can use that size just be quick.

#11 10-31-2002, 08:49 AM

Thanks i think am going to get a new iron with a sponge and holder sometime soon 20/40 watts switchable.
Thanks for the tip wingman...

Mattydiah · #12 10-31-2002, 04:36 PM

I dont get it. Why do you have to use resistors on the LEDs?

Steve · #13 10-31-2002, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by zipzap
Thanks i think am going to get a new iron with a sponge and holder sometime soon 20/40 watts switchable.
Thanks for the tip wingman...

I do a ton of soldering with these little freakin cars and have yet to fry anything. I think the secret is a very hot iron, very thin solder, and good clean metal. The contact between the iron and the component should be a extremely fast, and in order to get a good joint you need lots of heat, applied to a small area, very quickly. If you touch a component and then have to wait... for the solder to melt, you're gonna cook it. Also, be sure to clean and "tin" everything, including the iron tip. Small amounts of flux will also speed the melting of the solder and help the solder to stick. A heat sink is also a good idea for really sensitive IC's and stuff, but you really shouldn't need one in most cases. I've used 30, 35, and 40 watts irons, and I prefer the 40 myself. Maybe I'm crazy, but I've had great success with it.

#14 11-01-2002, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mattydiah
I dont get it. Why do you have to use resistors on the LEDs?

I used them because it did not work without them!
I guess they limit the current so it does not draw the voltage down.
LEDs are brighter without the resistors but do not all light at the same time.

#15 12-22-2002, 10:03 AM

found more green leds at frys 20 for about 4 bucks