TTTT Electronics

[arch2b]

overlander, killer, fastboy and thorsten-
can you take pictures and give instructions on how to hook up all the electronics? kinda make instructions? i have the materials, i don't know how they all fit together;
servo
receiver
modified speed controller
batteries
on/off switch

i should be getting to this part very soon.

[fastboy]

here ya go

[killer]

Arch,

:ö: this part looks easy.... but beware!

It goes like this, your steering servo goes to channel 1 of your reciever, and your ESC goes to channel 2, and so on and so forth, hey that's easy isn't it? , but make sure that you plug it correctly ... i mean, notice your servo have a 3 color coded wires sticking out? those codes are very important and reveresing it may ruin your day! ( hehehe, been there, than that ) actually it just the same electronic principle, red wire to positive (+) , black wire to negative (-) , now the remaining white wire is the signal (s).

On the reciever, there are marks on the protective plastic cover, those are numbers and letter which corresponds to your rx's channels (no.1 is your channel 1...).

On top of all those plug contact/connector (those brass rod sticking on your rx) there's a " + , - and s" written, now the question is where do you plug your battery?, on the GWS R-4P rx, the 3rd channel has a "3/B" witten, this is your 3rd channel and also, this is where you plug your battery, you will use the same plug as to what you use to connect your servo to your rx (it's the black or white thingy connected at other end of your servo wire), you can buy this from your LHS!, Or!, you can solder wires directly from the postive and negative wires of your converted servo electronics!.. why?... because if you remove the protective plastic cover of your reciever, all the positive and negative plug contacts runs on a single contact strip (two actually one for positive and one for negative or what we call "parallel connection") and only the signals (channels) have seperate contact strips per channel, so connecting the your battery on your servo or your ESC's positive and negative won't do any harm, oh! and install your switch on the wires that connects from your battery to your electronics (wherever your choose to connect it) the function of your switch is to cut off the power coming directly from the battery.

¤just remember¤

"Red Wire" is your Postive (+)

"Black Wire" is your Negative ( - )

"White Wire" is your Signal ( s )

¤ And make sure to connect your wires from the battery correctly ¤

hope this help...

-æ

[arch2b]

thanks killer, thats what i was looking for

how do you solder the battery pack? + to + or + to -?

[killer]

:ö: to solder batteries together, solder + of your first battery to the - of your second battery and so on... 'till you are left with one + and one - it looks like this;

to (+) of your rx or esc --------- switch ----- +[battery1]- *** +[battery2]- *** +[battery3]- *** +[battery4]- ------- to the (- ) of your rx or esc.




¤ +[battery]- = battery with negative and postive poles
¤ *** = points to solder a battery to another battery
¤ -------- = wire

you can use thin strip of conductive metal or electric wire to connect one battery to another.

:TIP:

After you have soldered everything on the battery don't forget to insulate it!, cover those exposed battery terminal, because short circuit will damage your electronics in a sec! ....

-æ

[killer]

:ö: you have about 5 - 10 seconds to save your 1/87 electronics after you accidentally installed the battery in reverese?, and the reciever is the last to be affected by this incident? because, there are diodes that protect the servo and the rx from such incident. and the reciever (rx) is the last to be affected by this accident?.. why?, because it has the rx have three diodes on it unlike the servo board that only have one installed, and removing this just to make your rx smaller will shorten your 5 - 10second chance of saving your electronics.

-æ

[arch2b]

ok, this might sound stupid but i bought the GWS MC-2002 Peak Detect field charger for my tttt batter pack. however, is has a power input for 12v? i was expecting a 120v general house plug power cord like on the rayovak 1hr charger for my mini z batteries. i'm guessing i need to purchase a power converter of some sort?


is there a charger that is reasonably priced that doesn't require an additional power source component? or are the power source things cheap?

it's turning out to be more of a hassle to deal with the batteries than i'd thought. the down side is having to lug that stuff around, including a large conroller for such a tiny rc truck.

what is everyone else using? ther has to be a more efficient setup.

[arch2b]

i came across an interesting thread in another section...i wonder what kind of electronics these use?

check em out

[me and me lude]

oldtamy has a review of it on MRRC
you could ask him if you still have any q's

[Namuna]

Gotta be careful about buying Peak Chargers that are for the 'field'...Which means they run off of car batteries (the 1:1 cars I mean).

So if you're going to be traveling, you'll need to bring a 12v car battery with you.

If you're going to be at home, then I recommend the Pyramid line of regulated power supplies. They're fairly inexpensive (I have the PS-15KX for my Peak Charger and I was able to find it for under $40US).

[killer]

:ö: Arch,
about charger? have you checked this one out?..

http://www.microrcracing.com/mrc_sup...59_charger.htm

hope this helps

[killer]

:ö: Arch,
if you are looking for a regulated power supply for your charger, you can check this one out,

http://www.mattsrcstuff.com/PCPS.htm

co'z i build one "regulated" power supply out of PC power supply like this one too, and it's the lightest (50x++ ligther than a regular regulated power supply available at Radio Shack) and cheapest too! (if you have some old pc around, that is) i use this one to power my peak charger for my 1/10 rc, so i could dispose off the old and heavy and i mean "heavy" regulated power supply that i used haul everytime i race , and if you have any question just post it here and i'll try to answer it as far as i can.

or if you don't want to mess with high voltage pc power supply, there's one available i know that is also light and powerfull regulated power supply for rc peak charger, it's from NOVAK maybe you can check their website out!

-æ

[arch2b]

killer- that is a cool mod.... . tiny is checking into a really small, portable ps for me...if it turns out to be to expensive...i'll try the computer thing...god knows everyone has old computers lying around, atleast i do.

[killer]

Originally posted by arch2b
tiny is checking into a really small, portable ps for me

:ö: Arch,
if you are to purchase a power supply for your charger, make sure that you come up with a "regualted power supply" and not a "converter power supply", these two are different from each other, the "regulated ps", provides smooth, constant power to your charger, and it is safe to use on high tech fragile gadgets (one reasom why they use regulated ps for pc ) while the converter ps, provides raw, unfiltered electric current, which may cause damage to some electronic equipment,or may cause false peak on your charger, but it(converter) can be used to charge vehicle batteries such motorcycle , car batteries.. etal which you cannot do with any regulated ps
-æ

What about a bit char-TTTT system. I know that the asembely is easyer than some but in wirering I suck.