
05-18-2003, 07:13 PM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 14
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Ball Bearings For Zipzaps
Okay, don't yell too much but I have an idea. There are 2 companies I have found that sale bearings that are 1mm inDia X 3mm ODia X 1mm width.. Now I know that at this scale a bearing really wouldn't roll that well. I think though you could eliminate all axle noise and wobble and vibration.. so you would gain some performance... which would be offset by the weight and drag of the bearings... but now you would have an extremely silent ZipZap
One more crazy thought....with a bearing system you could remove the bar axle thus having a back end that is more like a real cars with a powered wheel and a wheel that's just along for the ride.
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05-18-2003, 07:22 PM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 14
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PS
The website that sells these is www.Myonic.com (Don't know yet if they will sell to consumers)
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05-18-2003, 10:19 PM
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I KNOW NOTHING!!!
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: southeast, michigan
Posts: 441
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Well first I think a bearing set would be a great hopup(it always is).
I think you might be wrong about it rolling/draging even though it is very small it would still be a BIG improvement over the stock axle setup.
I cant find my ZipZap right now but the rear axle from my microsizer is 0.047in or 1.19mm are they the same size as ZipZap axles?
I dont think you would want only one wheel powered, the car would spin uncontrollably.
I do need soome bearings for my microsizer project but at this point I have so much planned for it that bearings would be a minor feature on it.
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05-19-2003, 12:36 AM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 14
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I found out more info
they have a bearing that has an inner diameter of (1.191mm) or (.0469in) this is about what you said you measured the axle at. plus you can get that size in about 5 different types of bearings a few are flanged which would eliminate the problem of alignment!! oh and the outer diameter is a hair under 4mm....these things are tiny!!!
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05-19-2003, 11:59 AM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 26
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Slugbugg is right about the one-powered-wheel thing. Real cars give both wheels on an axel power. If only one wheel was driven, the car would pull VERY hard to one side, and probably would spin.
I like the idea of a silent ZZ. Keep in mind, though, that there is alot of noise that comes from the gearing. The official ZZ site recommends graphite shavings be added to improve the coefficient of friction (it'll act like oil). I dunno if it would quiet the gears.
__________________
My humble ZZ collection:
-Lowered champagne Civic
-Silver 350Z
-Blue RX-8
-Motor/Gear upgrade kit w/ 2.8 motor
-2F2F kit w/ 3.4, Evo, & Eclipse
-2F2F Skyline and S2000 bodies
-Awesome RC 2F2F Lancer Evo
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05-19-2003, 04:21 PM
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I KNOW NOTHING!!!
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: southeast, michigan
Posts: 441
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OH by the way, that site is an excellent find. Thanks.
I really like the flanged bearings they would make things very simple.I should be designing bearings into my microsizer project but I don't want to wait for them to show up, I want to be able to cut a chassis asap.
I'm trying so hard to make a custom chassis for my microsizer, I'm having a very difficult time with the cad program I have (turbocad).It works ok, but trying to save the right data in the drawing to ba able to write the g-code is a real pain.I have auto-cad 1.4 but I just don't like it so I'm sticking with turbocad for now.
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05-19-2003, 10:33 PM
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That's all folks
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Washington (in a van down by the river)
Posts: 419
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The bearing size for bit and zip axles is 3/64 or R0. I too have been looking at the flanged ones for a custom pan chassis project. The cost of the little things has slowed my enthusiam to try them!
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That's all folks!
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05-19-2003, 11:13 PM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Savannah, GA USA
Posts: 1,075
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I like the idea a lot and had thought of using some of those TTTT techniques to improve on the Zip chassis. And, BTW, most cars do only have one main drive wheel. The other can assist at high end through the differential, but they only have real torque on one side. Unless, it's a posi-traction differential. Then both wheels drive the vehicle forward together. These where most common on 70"s muscle cars and more recent sports cars. The same is true for front wheel drive cars. Most all of them have a main drive wheel. The other assists at higher torque ranges.
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If it ain't broke, tear it apart and see what makes it tick!
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05-19-2003, 11:20 PM
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XMOD AUDI TT (my wish)
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: t.dot
Posts: 793
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i dont understand what u are saying, real cars have ONE MAIN DRIVE GEAR??? would they turn in one direction then?
thanx
__________________
I HATE XMODS (when they're broken...like mine)
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05-20-2003, 01:48 AM
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TinyRC Newbie
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 14
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More About this
Okay I found another wesite that atually lists prices and everything for the 1x3x1mm bearings.. (I will post the address as soon as I remember the site) They are about 13.00 a piece...Thats pretty expensive...but I think also it could be worth it. All you guys might want to help me scour the internet for better CHEAPER bearings...anything nylon(cheaper) or magnetic(don't thinkthey exist yet) The ones I found were called radial ball bearings those are the most common ball bearing, the kind in skates and bikes and servos, there is another type called angular contact bearings which have nylon surronding the balls instead of crimped metal. They may be a better route because they can be permanently lubed and probaly cheaper from the use of nylon.
Also as far as the limited slip thing goes, I really am scratching my brain trying to think of a simple cheap and efficient way to allow the back wheels to spin at different speeds in a turn. Cuz that would rock.
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05-20-2003, 03:34 PM
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TinyRC Pro
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 26
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I know ALOT about cars. Trust me. Each of you is sorta right. The open differentials distribute power to both wheels equally when there is no loss of traction. However, they are not useful for hi-po cars that regularly induce wheel spin because they inherently also distribute power to the wheel with LESS traction, causing one wheel to spin while the other does not rotate at all. That's why limited slip differentials (LSD's) were built. The positrack is a type of LSD. An LSD limits the amount that one wheel can spin more than the other wheel on that axel. So with an LSD one side might only be able to spin 20% more than the other side. It keeps both wheels driven, regardless of the amount of traction there is.
ZZ's have a solid axel, allowing no slip between sides at all. Each rear wheel is spinning the same amount as the other. Putting power to one rear wheel only will make the car slower and handle much, much worse. Try taking one tire off the rear end and leaving the other tires on. You will notice the car now sucks. The ball-bearing idea is very good one. I think that it will reduce friction on the axel and make the car smoother. But BOTH WHEELS NEED POWER!!!. Especially if your running higher than the 1.6 with blue gears, which I hope you are.
__________________
My humble ZZ collection:
-Lowered champagne Civic
-Silver 350Z
-Blue RX-8
-Motor/Gear upgrade kit w/ 2.8 motor
-2F2F kit w/ 3.4, Evo, & Eclipse
-2F2F Skyline and S2000 bodies
-Awesome RC 2F2F Lancer Evo
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05-20-2003, 08:25 PM
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I process, therefore I am
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Savannah, GA USA
Posts: 1,075
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Yup, sounds good to me. I was speaking from my own experience with cars which stopped in the late 70's and early eighties. Cars are very different now, though they follow the same rules.
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If it ain't broke, tear it apart and see what makes it tick!
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05-20-2003, 08:45 PM
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Garage Rocker
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 516
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Both wheels drive on a car, but because of the differential, if traction becomes uneven all the power will go the the wheel getting the least traction, and break it free. Hence the single tire burn outs in non-posi cars.
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04-20-2010, 09:22 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1
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Bearings
Quote:
Originally Posted by slugbugg
OH by the way, that site is an excellent find. Thanks.
I really like the flanged bearings they would make things very simple.I should be designing bearings into my microsizer project but I don't want to wait for them to show up, I want to be able to cut a chassis asap.
I'm trying so hard to make a custom chassis for my microsizer, I'm having a very difficult time with the cad program I have (turbocad).It works ok, but trying to save the right data in the drawing to ba able to write the g-code is a real pain.I have auto-cad 1.4 but I just don't like it so I'm sticking with turbocad for now.
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Actually you can grab some custom bearings fairly cheap from Pacamor
www.pacamor.com
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