I pulled out my digital multimeter (again) for some more indepth testing...This time for specific current draw from different Motors. Here are the results (I'll leave the conclusions for all of you to come up with, but these numbers are 'interesting' indeed)
The voltage output is constant for all motors (basically the same as the rating of the car battery)
The Test Setup:
Taking you 56k'ers into consideration, I put all the pitures into the
Gallery (so check it all out there)
Took out my
Digital MultiMeter ,
Helping Hands and used a small length of
Wire. The last time I took out my
DMM I ran the mA tests with no load whatsoever (no motor), this time we'll find out what the deal is with the motors.
In order to properly test the current drain, the DMM has to be setup as part of the current flow...Which gets TRICKY doing it yourself (thank gawd for the helping hands!).
http://tinyrc.com/gallery/motortests/aaa
I took the black lead (from DMM, with alligator clip attachment) and locked it down on the metal plate that the motor endbell rest on, then using the wire with the ends stripped I attached 1 end to the metal in the chassis that the motor rests on, then the other end wraps around the motor (while being held by the helping hand clip).
http://tinyrc.com/gallery/motortests/aae
With that rigged up, the only thing left to do is touch the red lead (from the DMM) to the metal on the endbell (of the motor) and press the forward/reverse button to start the current flow and read the results.
Cars Tested: (Both fully charged before tested)
Stock Bit Char-G
Stock ZipZaps
Motors Tested:
1) ZipZaps 1.6 (Performance)
2) ZipZaps 2.35 (NOS)
3) ZipZaps 2.15 (Turbo)
4) Clone 2.8
5) Tomy 1.0
6) Tomy 2.2
7) Tomy 2.6
8) TinyRC R-Spec
9) TinyRC 3.8
Results
The R-Spec and 3.8 motors both had problems pulling enough juice to run properly in the ZipZaps, the numbers given were when the PCB would intermittently give the needed amount
*MicroHP = 1/1,000,000th of a Horsepower