Well I haven't done any flux capacitor mods, and the fusion reactor is just not available locally, have to get one off of ebay.
Seriously, the car is stock, other than the battery, and the motor. I'm going to try it again today with my stock batteries. I've already been charging my stock batteries on the controller for 3 cycles, as I've mentioned before in other threads, and getting better torque, and 10-15 min. runtimes.
I just used the base to from my clone because it was already separate, and I wouldn't have to tear done a radio, but you just need the chargeing base, to plug into your car. I just wired the batteries straight to it. Some would recomend that you use resistors to slow the chargeing rate, but I know a higher charge rate means a faster disharge (more power), so I wanted to see what these batteries could handle. Part of the reason I tried this with the NiMh first, as they are more durable than NiCds.
Then while your chargeing keep your meters probes on the contacts. I drilled 2 holes in the back of the case to access them, but I'm going to instal a couple mini phono jacks thaI can just plug my probes into so I can sit back and watch.
What your watching for is a sudden voltage drop. It gradually moved betwee 1.75 and 1.78, then suddenly dropped to 1.70, and stayayed there. That's the kind of reaction your looking for. Keep checking your battery to make sure it's not over heating. (I've heard a couiple stories of melted chassis around here.) It's going to get pretty warm, so don't panick if it getts a little warm, but since it took about 6 minutes with the 150mah, then if it get's to be close 3 min. with the stock battery, you haven't seen the reaction your looking for, and the battery is getting hot then definately get it off, quick.
Hope that helps anyone.
**edit**Oh yeah, and Hogjowls, when I read your post about the spring I ran to my closet and tore apart my slot car, but it didn't even have springs. Dammit, now I have to track some of those down.
Dave