This will make it easier to tell which wire is which when you solder the wire strand to the H-bridge board. The kit includes the 4 wire strand, of which I'd say you should need 6" to 8" of(from EP to H-bridge). It's better to have too much than too little though, keep in mind. Strip the insulation and tin the ends of the wire and you're ready to solder to the H-bridge PCB.
As said earlier, the order of the wiring on the xmod EP is not the same arrangement as on the H-bridge. Here is the arrangement on the xmod EP.
Here is the arrangment on the H-bridge, front and back.
Notice how they are different from the arrangement of the xmod EP(not in linear order). You will have to separate enough wire, on the H-bridges side of the 4-wire strand, accomodate that. I'm sorry, but this was unavoidable without making the H-bridge PCB a lot bigger. It's a fairly easy thing to deal with, however. Just make sure you get this right and refer to your black marking on the strand to denote wires IC5 pin 2, and IC5 pin 4(or whichever you marked) The order of these connections and the integrity of the connections themselves cannot be over-stated as being crucial to the H-bridges survival. If one of the connections is faulty or comes loose, there is a chance of blowing an FET. You will definitely lose functionality, but if this happens(wire comes disconnected) you must disconnect power to the H-bridge immediately and secure the connection before reapplying power. This is must that you understand. Use the digital multimeter to check the continuity of each wire to be sure that it is indeed connected to it's appropriate pads on both the xmod EP and the H-bridge, AND that there is no cross-connections from any strand/pad to another. That is very important. Look up "check continuity" on the internet if you don't know what that is. It is very important. Put your EP back in your chassis, being mindful of the signal wires being close to the screw hole for the EP/chassis mount. You need to force the wire to go around that screw hole, then the whole 4 wire strand goes around the side if the EP and up along the side-wall of the chassis and towards the top of your xmod.
Now you're done with the hard part, in my opinion. Refer to the H-bridge pics for the location of your connections to cells and motor. If you've accomplished the signal wire install, then this should be a no-brainer. Just keep your wire lengths in mind because you want to allow a gap in between the H-bridge and the car itself. There's 2 reasons for that, air flow and shorts. If the board is too tightly constrained to the car, there is a chance of the bottom of the PCB shorting on a piece of metal of some sort, whether it be the crystal or the CLL port. Leave enough wire so that the H-bridge can stand-off the car and allow the wires to support its weight above the chassis. You don't want the H-bridge resting on the xmod. Again, better to have too much than too little. This is where your black electrical tape might come in handy, to prevent shorts. On my future installs, I plan on putting a layer of electrical tape on the bottom of the H-bridge PCB, to help insulate and prevent shorting on the motor or what have you. The H-bridge has a ton of current flowing through it at times and a short could prove very destructive to the FET's and your cells. So preventing shorts is more important than anything with this installation. Do everything in your power to prevent them, and implement the prevention into your install with having the gap, or stand-off, and insulating with a layer of black electrical tape. I used silicone caulk on my prototype and it worked really well. It all depends on what you wanna do, but insulating the bottom of the H-bridge PCB, and especially the area where the signal wires are connected, is a must. It might not hurt to encase the entire H-bridge in plastic or electrical tape, but it will prevent the FET's from dissipating heat as well....but it's better than losing the H-bridge to a short.
When you get the motor, cells, and signal wiring taken care of, then you can connect the xmod car's power wires to the same place you connected the H-bridge power wires. You should implement a switch or a connector of some sort to be able to manually shut off power to the H-bridge and car, such as a dean's connector or something. Where you have a wire going across the xmod, from one li-ion(cell pack) to the other, is a perfect place for that switch or connector. If you don't disconnect the cells from the H-bridge after every use, your cells drain. Switching your xmod off will not prevent this. With li-ions it is crucial to have a method of disconnecting the cells from the H-bridge, unless you immediately put the car on a charger and keep it there until you race again. Which is what I do.
I have everything soldered in, no connectors. I don't suggest you do that unless you are sure to keep up with your cells charge with a digital multimeter, constantly. It is very important. Having a connector for the motor is optional. I also have the motor soldered directly to the wiring from the H-bridge. This H-bridge is a high-maintenance endeavor with preventing shorts and keeping your cells from draining. If li-ions get below @ 2.5V, kiss them good bye.
That ends this tutorial. Again, please feel free to ask whatever and suggest a mention of something that I might have left out. I will constantly revise this tutorial until it is all inclusive. Thanks. ~Jshwaa