View Single Post
  #4  
Old 10-06-2003, 03:08 AM
Hooters Driver Hooters Driver is offline
TinyRC Pro
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 59
1. For the dogbones proper clearance is critical. I have read of using a spring from a ball point pen cut into 4 pieces to remove the slack. I tried that but found that it caused the front suspension to bind when turning. It wasn't enough for a noticeable loss of speed but I could hear a change in the tone of the motor.

I then started using washers (I think they provide some with the kit). The trick is to use just enough so that the dogbone doesn't fall out but there is still a small amount of free play at all points of steering and suspension travel.


2. You are correct about the polarity of the charger.

Charge the batteries in the car only at your own risk (batteries have been known to explode when being quick charged - usually due to operator error).


3. The diffs on a mini x are very rough as they come from the factory. If you take a couple of hours to massage them they will work much smoother.

I disassembled mine, sanded every flat surface with 600 grit sandpaper, and then ran a drill bit through all of the ball holes to make sure the balls turned freely. That made a world of difference in the way the diffs work.


4. I have never used an internal antenna but one trick used in small model airplanes is to wrap the antenna around a straw or something similar ( be sure you DO NOT overlap the antenna anywhere) and then tape it inside the body of the airplane(car in this case). You may lose a small amount of range doing this, however.

To combat the loss of range, before you wrap up your antenna replace it with a longer piece of wire (50 cm is the length used on most airplanes).


5. try adjusting the throttle trim to see if the whine goes away. If not don't worry about it.


6. The only advantage to the wheel nuts is the pretty colors.

Last edited by Hooters Driver; 10-07-2003 at 06:12 PM.
Reply With Quote