I agree with all of this. After all ph2t has researched the guts of these things quite extensively. No one has posted a video to prove the claim that the PCB will handle this much power. His reasoning reflects my own in the tolerances of the components involved. I would say that at most it may work for a very short period of time until the switching transisters in the h-bridge overheat to the point of failure. But, I would bet the forward transister will pop almost immediately. All in all, it seems an unwise modification. You are pushing the electronics past safe limits in order to lug a battery around that outweighs the entire car by quite a bit. And no one has stepped forward to defend the mechanical claims made here. Nothing yet has convinced me to believe any of these claims.
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So i stripped out all the un necassary parts on the inside. And it helped the weight problem a little. I set it all up and let it go and it went as fast as a 3 gen pcb with the 34,000 rpm motor and red gears.
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This one bothers me too. What are all those parts you cleaned out of there. As far as I know the only thing redundant in the setup you mention would be the stock battery. That's not much weight difference between it and that brick of a 9V. I doubt it performed as you say. Which makes me doubt that you actually did this. This is part of my problem with believing the original claims. The mechanical claims of strapping a 9V to the side combined with a huge motor in the back and raised an inch are far fetched at best. I've found that when some things don't seem right, then most likely all of the claims are bogus. At this point, I feel this is one of the most exagerated threads on the boards so far.