Got a Gallardo dnano...tuning
 

just got a dnano, i cant believe how small these things are when you get your hands on one. ive just been driving it on a stripped wood floor and it works pretty good. that is after i took the kyosho soft carbon plate off, even though its the softest its waaayy to stiff, useless, will probly never be on my d again, atomic plate set on the way.

what do you guys that run on RCP use on your dnanos? i have atomic diff, plates, front spring set, and SSG damper on the way along with their 25f tires and 8r tires. ceramic bearings also. hopefully that will give me a good start but any tips tuning the thing is greatly appreciated...here's a pic!

http://images.jace1283.multiply.com/...nmid=333761224

an atomic diff? *shutters* good luck with that one.... my setup is broken down here.

haha i canceled the atomic diff, will have to find a kyosho one

x-power has one available as well ;)

I have Kyosho ball diff on my cars. I had to remove the washer that came with it and use just top and bottom shims. Even that was too tight. I had to sandpaper them down to make the diff work.

of course, it depends on the condition of your rcp track and how you care for it...but my fiancee's 911 gt3 traction rolls way too much. To the point where we can't even race together or she has to go part throttle all the time.

I'm going to be converting hers to a PG LP640 today :D

My PY LP640 being the widest dnano doesn't have any issues with traction rolling so i recommend wider dnanos for RCP tracks.

I use Kyosho 40 front and Kyosho 10, let me know how your tire choices work out for you on your rcp track.

PS- we only use Kyosho optional parts (except for an SSG purchased from Qon)

-Ray

I have a mini-96 and run a Modena, Kyosho ball diff with one spacer with 45/8 PN and it hooks up perfect. I also have a Motul with the same tire combo but the car sits to low and the body hangs up all the time and makes the car inconsistant/unpredictable with turning. Now that car sits on a shelf. I was contimplating removing the side clips and raise the body but I don't want to risk cracking it.

i put some upgrades on:
-ceramic bearings (nice)
-atomic t plates, soft (nice)
-kyosho diff, as is (nice)
-atomic disk damper(complete junk, do not buy)
-gyro, helps stability a lot, i find it pretty necessary
-spring set, didnt use yet

ran it on rcp and it was understeering with stock tires. i put atomic 25s on front and 8s on the back, the 25s were way to much grip on rcp, completely unuseable, car would flip and grab too hard. was a mini-z day so that was all i did, mini-z felt huge after driving the dnano haha

Atomic is good, PN Racing's Carbon joints are better... more lateral flexibility

try 1-5k wt. diff oil when you rebuild it, you'll get greater straight line speed

combine use with rear suspension plates. normally, you'll need to balance soft/med/hard front with soft/med/hard rear but it all depends on how you drive the car.

the tires are new so this will happen AT FIRST. give the tires time to pick up that 'glaze' from the surface and it'll give you nice grip for the long term. if you get tires that are perfect as soon as you put them on the circuit, over time you'll lose grip from the 'glaze' and you'll have to scrape it off to get the grip back. the best method is to use tires that give you the proper grip with the glaze on them. you can always adjust your driving and racing line to compensate for the initial extreme traction.

note: these tips are only from my experience, yours may be different