custom chassis production has started
 

hey guys i made a few new chassis a pan chassis, an extened chassis, and a SUPER LONG chassis which is 4 inches and im going to have pics up in a week or so when i get my parts 2morra i can finish the pan chassis. I will be making these chassis for people that want them and are actaully serious about bits not just people that want to look kewl. I am putting goin to start with 1 batt and im gunna move up to 3 and theres enuff space to put 3 batts on and have the pcb mounted on the chassis. I did add a custom wheelie bar and some extra steering tricks like 2 steering springs and rare magnets but all i can say is get ready for a racing monster

I want a pan chassis for sure... Drop me an email. Thanks



silla

Great can't wait to see the pics!

this may sound stupid but what is a pan chassis exactly?

What sort of body would you put on a 4 inch long car thats an inch wide, might I ask?

pan chassis..
 

here's my pan chassis, it fits my lancer at the moment. I don't have the electronics or wheels done. but it's a start..

love the sig

maybe you should creat two outstretched tabs where the wheels axel goes (in the rear) so there is a way to mount it to the chassis w/o glue or som eother silly thing, just put a tab on either side and drill a hole, bend it up then to insert the axle you remove one wheel slide it in and put the wheel back on, then adjust it from there for any slop that may have happened (u can drill the hole to precise size maybe even use small bearings) i cant see how the front steering will fit on it (yet) but i imagine youve thought of that you could extend the flat metal out farther in the front so when you bend it back it has a top.. then you just have to flatten out the tab (wich would be folder over backwards in the process making it 2 pieces thick) enough to make it fit (or mod the body) youll have to line the bottom with black tape and make the holes for chargeing big enough so no accidental connection is made while on the charge station. i imagine this will be sweet. next you can try a carbon fiber chassis.

ronak26,

How are you making these? Are you molding them or just using the original chassis' and modifying them? If it's a true one piece custom chassis molded, I'll take one. If it's just modified with an exacto, glue and plastic, I'll have to wait to see pics.

It looks like he made them from aluminum sheet. I've been thinking of doing this for a while now, i may try it. How are you attatching the steering and rear axle?

im gona attempt a new rear axle mod tonight or this weekend that should allow massive improvment in torque and top speed. if it works it will be the best 4$ mod you can do for a little rc car. ill post pics if it works. if it doesnt then forget i ever posted this.

hey guys im VERY glad to see that you guys are intrested in making your bits really custom and ill try to answer all your questions now.

this was my first build and done chassis i used the exacto method and all but now im going to make a one piece with direct drive and no gear in the middle ill have to see how that works and i have some ideas for steering also

jtm drop me an email i kinda get what your talking about and i really like it so email me so im clear and i might have a new ideea to do

KING BEAUTIFUL JUST BEAUTIFUL

shocon my friend is GREAT with making bodies for cars esp smaller and for 45 bucks hes making me my real car an 96 impalla ss which are really long so it wont look wierd at all

i have it done and all parts in im running one cel now and im gunna be ordering 3 150mah from qfm shortly here and it runs fine right now and its my favorite bit right now also so im hopeing i can get you guys involed with newer chassis ideas and stuff alright later

cool!:D :cool: :eek:

I want the aluminum chassis!:D :cool: :eek: :p

Go
 

i did that but i used paper painted it white
________
Vapolution
________
Yenko chevrolet history
________
HOW TO ROLL A JOINT

hold up on the pan chassis

the steering mechanism is a magnet isnt it?
so wouldnt it get interrupted beacuse the pan is metal?

so will the reception... i think

Well if the chassis is made outta aluminum shouldn't it not interfere with magnets? Maybe I'm wrong.:rolleyes:

Aluminum is not magnetic, NP.

that's true ... aluminum isn't a ferrous metal... so it won't mess up the steering system

Some wireless internet card cases are made out of aluminum.

Aluminum conducts electricity easly, so you are going to have a hell of a time trying to get all the wires not to touch anything.:p ]! But you always can spray them so they can't conduct electricty.

Napalm_Guru the only bare metal would be the solder points on the pcb.
other then that ,all the wires are enamel coated or jacketed

I do not know about the enamel your probly right.

But the metal tab carrying the charge to the motor and the battery taps are going to have problems unless coated.

that's true ..the metal tab are a bit of a problem.. he can always black_tape the chasis... one thing i'd like to see is a crabon fiber chasis ....now that'll be tight

If the wires touched the carbon fiber, it would cause glitching..;)

Just clearcoat the aluminum chassis. As long as the contacts are secure and don't rattle (causing the paint to rub off) it should work fine. This would also let you polish the chassis without worrying about it losing its shine.

or you could anodize the aluminum. Get a car battery and some of that RIT dye.

Yeah, anodizing would be sweet because you could do custom colors. A car battery and RIT dye? Sounds interesting, would you give me some info on how this is done?

Anodized Aluminum is still conductive on the surface! The best bet to make aluminum less conductive is through coating it with a non conductive material (i.e. plastic, rubber, powder coating).

Also carbon fiber is also considered semi-conductive, especially on any end, since we all know carbon is conductive!

were did you guys get the aluminum and carbon fiber..i wanna make 1 too.i already made plactic 1s but they look kinda ulgy in clearish white.. and whats does anodized aluminum look like??is it good?

My thoughts exactly... Powder coating would be the best bet...


silla

Carbon fiber would be really hard to work with and custom form unless you have access to single sheets of carbon weave and a means to laminate them over a mold.

"by Jim Bowes

Based on the number of companies selling, and people looking for, anodizing services for their gun's aluminum bodies and parts, I wanted to provide this info to the paintballing community. I first came across the process in Super Chevy magazine, in an article about anodizing your own parts and brackets, for a custom touch on your hot rod. (* Original article by Bruce Hampson.) Often anodizing is considered and/or presented as a difficult and expensive procedure. As it turns out, it really isn't that hard or that pricey.

Supplies Needed:

The first thing to do is to get the following things together: First on the list is the most expensive item: a 6 to 12 volt battery charger. This item is what might make this too expensive for some paintballers. I (and most other hot rodders) already have one, for my car. If you don-t, then you will need to pick one up. They run from $45.00 to $110.00 depending on model, functions, etc. While it may seem like a lot, it does have other uses. (You could charge a battery, for example.) =) The next item, though not that expensive, will take some effort to find: battery electrolyte, a.k.a. sulfuric acid. This should be available at a battery wholesaler for about $2.00/gal. To make the negative ground, you will need some aluminum ground wire and aluminum-foil. The wire can be found at an electronics store for about $35/spool, and you should have the foil in the kitchen. If you happen to be out of foil, you can pick up some more at the store when you go to buy the last item for this project.

No super-special chemicals or solutions necessary to make the colors; just plain-old fabric dye. (Something like Rit dye, for about $5.00.) Rit offers something like 30-40 different colors, so you have quite a number of choices for what color you want your parts to be. An optional item is nitric acid: about $25.00/2.5 L. (This is used to clean parts prior to anodizing, but there are some cheaper alternatives. See end notes.) This is available at chemical supply stores. Should you not be able to find any, you can try to get on the good side of the high school science teacher. He may help you out since you only need a few ounces.

Safety Precautions:

There are a few precautions I want to go over to help keep you from blowing up the house or trashing the garage. First of all, do not mix or store your anodizing solution in a glass container. Something could happen to make it break, and most households are not equipped to deal with that kind of spill. You also don-t want to knock over the container, so a stable, rubber bucket makes a good choice. You will also need to be certain that the part you want to color will fit in the container without sticking out of the solution, and without touching the negative ground in the bottom of the container. Any acid that you don't use, keep in what it came in, or an old plastic bottle, like a bleach bottle. You can also store your used solution this way for doing more parts later. (Make sure that there is absolutely no bleach left in the bottle. Acid and bleach make chlorine gas. Very bad. Don't breath. Poisonous.) Safety also applies to the nitric acid, but in a different way. It is imperative that you label and keep track of this stuff, as it is a stronger acid than sulfuric, and more dangerous. The breakage/spill problem is not as likely since you won't have that much around. (Unless you bought more than a few ounces from the chem store.) The last note about the acids is to mix properly when adding acid and water. Always pour acid into water, never the other way, and do so slowly, being sure to mix in well. There is a reaction taking place and it releases a lot of energy. During the anodizing process, you will be running electricity through a weak acid solution. This creates hydrogen (just like charging a battery) which is very flammable. This stuff burns at the speed of thought when ignited, so do be careful. (Read as Remember the Hindenburg?) Make certain that there is some way to ventilate the project area, and DO NOT let any sources of ignition near the project area.Other precautions you should take include safety glasses, rubber gloves, and maybe some sort of drop sheet under the area.

Preparations:

One of the most essential things you need to do in order to get even color over the whole part is to be sure that the part is absolutely clean. You want it free of all contaminates, from dirt to the oils in your skin. This is where the nitric acid and some rubber gloves will help. A solution of 1-2 ounces of nitric acid in a gallon of distilled water will allow you to clean the surface in preparation for the anodizing. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly when exposed to air, so the easiest way to keep it clean is to clean it just before you are ready to start working on the piece. (You should rinse the part with distilled water before you put it in the next acid solution.) Other options are carburetor or brakes cleaners, or other similar degreasers. Soap and water will work also, or cleaners like Simple Green. These are cheaper, a nitric acid wash is the best. (You decide, it's your money.)

Make your negative ground with the aluminum wire and foil. Shape the end of the wire into a paddle shape and cover the round part with the foil. What you want to do is create a flat, round shape to sit on the bottom of the bucket, with a lead that comes up out of the bucket. You will clip the battery charger's negative lead to the wire that comes out of the bucket. When you are ready to start, you will want to mix up your immersion solution. In your rubber bucket, combine the sulfuric acid and water to come up with a solution that is about 30% water. (1 part water to 2 parts acid.) Place the paddle in the bucket and attach the negative lead. Then attach the positive lead to the part, making it an anode, and immerse it in the solution. (Remember that the two leads the paddle (cathode), and the part (anode) should not touch.) This is the best time to turn on the charger: once the part begins to fizz, leave it in there for about 10-15 minutes. After about this time the part should no longer conduct electricity. (You can also use an ohmmeter to check conductivity, but this is not needed.) Turn off and disconnect everything, and rinse the part in cold water. Don't use hot water! You'll find out why in the next section.

A couple of notes:

I have read some other procedures that say it is important that the copper lead from the charger does not enter the acid solution. The article says nothing about this, and shows a picture with the lead right in there. It may take some trial and error to find out if this is a problem. It wouldn't be a bad idea to get some scrap aluminum and play with it before you start anodizing your parts. You can check out the above, as well as pick the colors you like best. If you test out some colors, you'll also learn just how long or short you need to work with the color solution.

Color:

So now it doesn't conduct electricity, and is ready for color. It's been rinsed and waits eagerly to change to a new look. Don't wait too long to do the color, due to that oxidizing thing again. You want to mix up a strong solution of dye and water, in a container that can be heated. The solution needs to be at low heat, such as on the stove, so bread and cake pans work well. Again, you need something that will fit the whole part, but it's okay if it touches the bottom this time. I would recommend turning parts every few minutes just to make sure that you get all-over color. Inform your mom or wife that the pan can (and will be) washed out. It is important that the heat be low enough. If the solution gets too hot, you will seal the surface, and it will no longer take any color. (See, told you to rinse it in cold water!) Leave it in the dye until the part is slightly darker than you want it. The next step is to seal the surface of the metal in clean, boiling water. This will leech a bit of color from it, thus the slightly darker color in the previous step.

It is important to realize that the process described above will yield only one color on your part. At this time, I haven't found out how to do any of the splash type of anodizing. (That's okay though, it looks really ugly anyways.) Should anyone happen to figure it out, I suggest you submit it to Warpig so they can put it up for others who like it.

Also, this process is for aluminum. I don't know how, or if, it will work on other metals. (I doubt it.) Anodizing only works well on rock metal like bar or sheet stock, as opposed to castings. If it was forged or machined, it should have the density to take color through this process. I figure this shouldn't be too big a problem with the guns, but just thought I should let you know about it.

Something to consider when looking for a charger, is how many amperes it puts out. Without getting into any mumbo-jumbo, anodizing relies on 10 to 40 amperes per square foot. For small brackets and such, this is no problem. The larger parts in a gun however, may need the higher levels of amperes. The other note about part size, has to do with how long you leave it in the solution. Above it said 10-15 minutes, but that is for a smaller part. The larger parts may not only need higher amperes, but more time as well. I would recommend an ohmmeter, but again, I have one already.

So there you have it. Quick, fairly easy, and not too expensive. If you don't have the charger, then your first anodizing session could cost as much as sending your gun out to be done. But, then you can do it again for much less. Or do your buddies stuff. Or talk them into chipping in on a setup for all of you to use. We all know ways to help make things cheaper.

And the stupid statement required to cover myself... If you try this and something gets messed up, or someone gets hurt, you are on your own. Deal with it, you can't blame it on anyone else. "

I found the first guide on a paintball sitebut the guy that wrote it copied it from a car magazine.

Heres another guide

How to build an anodizer:
http://www.mrtitanium.com/anodizer.html

How to us an anodizer:
http://www.mrtitanium.com/anodizing.html

the anodizer in the first guide is the battery charger if you don't wish to build one.

I was also under the impression that anodized aluminum did not conduct electrcity hence it being so popular as a CPU shim.

Ahh I see Hardcoat Anodizing or Type III Anodizing is the one that does not conduct electrcity.

you sure talk alot for being silentbob:) good info tho (skimmed over it)

Caron Fiber would work great, it is just a pan chassis. You can get the stuff, as well as fiberglass sheets, from larger hobby shops for 1/10th scale rc cars. I think I may have a little of the fibeglass sheet laying around, I may have to try a pan chassis. I used to have a 1/10th scale pan car and loved it, a pan bit would be kinda cool.

http://www.plastidip.com

I say dip the chassis in a thin layer of this...

but before doing so solder the antenna right to the aluminum... it will be a super antenna ;).

Thanks for posting the tutorial Silentbob. I think a good coat of clear enamel would be the cheapest and simplest way to go.

I don't think solder will stick to aluminum.You could put a screw in it and hook the wire on it and tighten it down.

wtf is a pan chassis?