Hummer with mods - updated April 06>>>
 

Well it's been awhile and the Hummer has seen some cool changes! All new aluminum Hot Racing knuckles, shocks and GPM skid. Also added a 6tooth pinion 2mm alum flange nylock nuts and the hummer body got some RS upgrades. The torque is great and can chug over even thick grass!

I highly recommend the Hot Racing knuckles, they are top notch machined, mod very easy and use the RS bearings!

The steering mod was upgraded and "aluminized" It works perfectly. More to come, i'm sure...

http://members.cox.net/cejka/images/humm7.JPG

http://members.cox.net/cejka/images/humm6.JPG

http://members.cox.net/cejka/images/humm5.JPG

http://members.cox.net/cejka/images/humm4.JPG

http://members.cox.net/cejka/images/humm3.JPG

http://members.cox.net/cejka/images/humm2.JPG

http://members.cox.net/cejka/images/humm_1.JPG

hey maxiout, do you think you can post a page to where to get the 33 tooth spur gear and the six tooth pinion,

The 33t was so custom that I fear most would not want to tackle it. The spur was taken from the same stomper as the wheels/tires. It has a slight bevel in the gears but poses no problems. The 6t pinion was from a Kyosho Mini-z gear set. For the 6t gear to fit I had to cut 2mm off the RS stage 2 motor shaft then press on the pinion. The spur was made from a combination of the stomper gear and the RS inner gear half (carefully cut and aligned!). I had to mold them together and embed support pins for durability. The aluminum mount was file crafted and pin drilled. It is one of those things I would only do once.

I do have an idea that I am starting to build that will be for dedicated crawler Evos, it involves worm gears! and very strong torque! I am trying to build it with a future kit in mind so check back later.

hey thanks for the info.
i am determined to modify my hummer transmission because i think it is the most necesary modifiocation aside for the toe-in problem.
you have done an amazing job with your hummer, mine is still in the shop :)
amyways i already found the pinion on a page, but i was wondering if a 31 tooth gear from the mini-z servo gear set would work? i don't if they are too small and i don't have a mini-z to take apart (not like i would).
you should get a stronger motor if you don't already have one, because with those huge tires, the batteries must get sucked up very quickly.
i think i can do the trasmission job, i just need to find the right gear.
someone posted a link to another forum in the last thread you started and they said that they used a delrin/alloy gpm gear from an overland transmission. do you know where i could find that?
anywasy thanks,

-Lino

you have to build custom rims for it, you should search for this before posting,

-Lino

where do u got those knuckles at?????

Dinball has them and also ebay. The aluminum arms and shock mounts are not for the lifted versions so only get the knuckles if you have the lifted kit installed.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/defaul...44_596_600_902

maxxitout, can you tell me the dimensions of the lift kit mod you did here? also, what should i use to make it?

Hi,

The lifted kit is from Radio Shack as an upgrade, can buy at any RS. The mod I did was to lift the body some to allow for the bigger tires. If you check my other post, before this one I explained how I did it. If you have any trouble shoot me an email.

Hot Racing has not released aluminum parts that mimic the lifted versions, they only mimic stock as of now. I have written them to see if they can also make the lifted versions of arms and shock towers. Will update this post if I ever hear anything.

ok, i saw your other post but i didnt see what the dimensions were for the lift mod. i need to know how far away each screw hole would be and how long of a piece of plastic i would.

Hi, for the rear part of the body lift I used two HPI wheel washers, two 3mm sleeves and two 3mm regular washers. They go in the same place as stock (see in the pic) but since the screw were bigger I had to drill a recessed taper for the screw to go down into. For the front all I can say is to see about where I drilled and screwed in the pics. Basicly the front mount was screwed under where I have it now, I just moved to the top and added two holes/screws.

Here's another pic from the side.

ok, now i got it. i did that mod, just not exactly like yours so what i did was use mini z bushings and longer screws to lift the front clip. then i used the same bushings and lifted that tower thing the clip goes on to. now can you tell me how long those pieces for the tie-rod mod are. thanks!

Hi, Very sorry for the delay! I forgot all about checking on this post. The little tabs are about 6-7mm center to center. Be patient and make two out of plastic to test fit and get your length and angle right. Then craft some out of alum with a little flat spot to fit the knucke and resist moving. A tiny dab of CA after you have perfected the position will insure they stay put. Mine have been flawless for many a fun drive!

I added the underlights for kicks (since a RS around me was closing down and 80% off Xmod parts) and it is very cool for night driving. I would def pay full price for it now that I saw it's worth. Also I modified the little fog light bar option that comes with the Hum upgrade body parts to eliminate the brow overhang and fits perfectly where the stock light bar fits...will post some pics soon.

how'd you mount the tires/wheels?

Hi, If you check out my other, older thread I explain the process. If you can't find it let me know and I will add it here. On a side note I have added the light bar and ball diffs front and rear. Now it has posi slip at both ends. This week I am upgrading the motor to neo magnets and ball bearing can. Should double the torque!!. I'll post some new pics soon.