15+ with stock motor!!
 

OK heres what i did: First i almost completly locked the diff. i used the Paper Clutch LSD mod somebody did a little farther down the page, you can use any method you want as long as you are getting 50% of the power to each wheel.Second i cut the little black thing off the motor (thats where i got most of the speed).Third i put the hard springs on the back and stock springs on the front with two coils cut off.The springs are just the ones i used because i love to DRAG:D you can use any spring setup you want.And if you want to know about my driveshaft guaranteed not to fry your electronics just ask, oh yeh and its free!!:p

How do you know that you're going 15+?

:confused:

i think hes talking about a pen or carbon driveshaft:)

civicfreak, just curious but which design lsd did you use? inverted sideplates?

As for the LSD i took the three bevel gears out (the small ones) and absolutley stuffed each side with as many CONSTRUCTION PAPER chads as possible.The driveshaft i used is a COTTON SWAB you know the kind you use to clean your ears out with, just cut the cotton off each end and stick in the bevel gear just like a normal driveshaft i know it dosent go all the way back into the car like normal but dont worry, it works fine just the same ive been runnin it 5 days with it in there and nothings gone wrong yet.I know it was goin 15 because i drove it along side my dads truck when he was goin 15 oh yeh and thats on LOW

you should try the 2nd type running with the bevel gears. without them you lose power when the paper does slip. im running my diff with metal washers.:) im also running with a pen driveshaft but i dont notice that much of a difference.

Wow i didnt think about metal washers, my LSD dosent slip unless i hold one wheel and floor the gas and then it only slips a little bit,not enough to notice, thats how tight i packed that thing its more like a NSD (No Slip Differential) LOL

ummmmm................. can u explain this again????????????

explain every thing... and wat is slip????

ok and wat is the little black thing? u mean the resistor? thats not a stock motor! ur gettin more juice flow

No need to double post. :rolleyes:

This is how a differential works.

I dont get what you want me to tell you you answered you're own question

yeah metal works nicely. if you read through the clutch lsd thread youll see that i posted my experiences with different materials and different designs. i took the metal washers from a little 4wd tamiya ;)

paper = rough
plastic = binds
metal = nice and smooth

would a stock motor with timing advanced and water dipped count as stock still?

with the driveshaft idea i cut one of my penshafts so it was a little stub and it held on to the bearing. the gear moves around a little because the bearing doesnt seat in the yellow thing tight enough. any more ideas on making the car faster by not modifying the motor or board? lightening the drivetrain even more?

what i do for lightening my car is take off and keep off the front and rear decks and it helps for a motor swap too you only have 2 screws to take out .As for the motor im not shure because i dont what timing is if you're talkin about rewinding the armature shure it still the same can right!!:D LOL

how do you mount the body?

i dont think the body sits right without the rear deck because the back tab sits against it. the decks also keep the chassis stiff.

it dosent really sit perfectly true upfront but that dosent matter because at 25+(no thats not a typo i upgraded my motor to a S2 yellow) all you'll see is my rearend then again it may be my springs i cut them to give it a lower profile.LOL :p :D

gave up on ur stock motor?

yeh it just wasnt cuttin it for the 1/15 mile (or sumthin like that all i know it was 55 ft. long) boy talk about HOT!! you can literally melt an ice-cube on that thing in like a second! im get that M'tercooler from X-M-O-D-S-P-E-E-D.com as soon as they come out with it thats a really awesome site for parts you or anybody else should really check it out.

hehehe...oops, guess I did it wrong, do u take off the little rubber thing too?

what rubber thing and where?:confused:

i think hes talking about the rubber insulator on the motor. i dont really think its a good idea to take that capacitator off. yeah it gives you a little more flow but you risk killing ur board.

check this out. theyre running bigger caps. dun dun dun;)
http://www.xmodworld.com/modules.php...ewtopic&t=2559

first im not trying to be stuborn or rude or anything like that but i have been DRAG racing for 2 weeks with it this way and no problems yet and i used caps in drag because that reguires alot of coasting (when a mototr becomes a generator)



and that thing in your sig that says modified stock motor ( makes no sense) what does that mean?

it means im running my stock motor. i just modified it so i dont think i can really call it stock anymore?

-s2 magnets
-timing advanced
-water dipped
-drag gears

and im gonna start testing out different caps

dragging requires alot of coasting?:confused:

yeh at the end we coast to a stop cause we dont want to wear out our tires if we dont need to (by braking) they're very expensive tires $5 bucks a pop, we have to make them from a compound

Capacitors on motor
 

Ok, let me set the record straight:

The tan capacitor is used to prevent harmful interference with the receiver.

The black capacitor is to prevent surges from making the brushes arc on the communicator. Arcing = decreased performance.

so what would you say about running higher uF caps? would the extra stored energy do something or am i missing something here?

Capacitors don't always store energy for a quick release, a capacitor can even out voltage by absorbing the peaks and filling in the valleys. You're best leaving it alone.

who's car?:confused:

geez those are expensive tires... what kind of compound? how grippy? how long would they last... lets say.. if you had a rwd car with massive torque...?:D

as for the compound type i dont know my friend makes them, i race them, ill call him up wednesday or thursday and ask him.the grip on the tires dependes on how we make them once again i dont know how we make them, but i do know how grippy they are they are anywhere from 2 dergrees-8 degrees(measured on a mini-z scale,sorry i dont have the little degrees sign on my keyboard).As for the car with lots of torque if you are drag racig 1-2 races, on a rally type course, if you gas it in the turns: 1 race
if you coast through the turns 2-3 races.if you have any more questions ask away!:D ;)

HEY! well a friend of mine hand wound a motor with strong magnets and stuffed it into a stock can of course i was fooled
until at the starting line when his car was half way down the course with a stock motor and mine was 2 or 3 feet from the starting line with a stage 2 DOES THAT MAKE HIS MOTOR A STOCK ONE? no. but advance timing and water dipped is wat i call "a fine tuned motor" and it usually fools the guys at the track.