my civic with some new parts
 

Here is my mostly stock civic it only has a S2 motor, steel lug nut and the few parts I cut last night on it.

http://www.ameritech.net/users/mlcollins/XmAluminum.JPG

Good job!! Real unique look!!

i like the hair in ur front tires!

lol, are those radiosahck NIMH bats any good? how many mAh r they???

LOL yep that car needs to be cleaned.Actually I need to do some more mods to it but I thought I would just slap those parts on there to see how they look

The batts are OK they are 700Mah.

check these batts out, free shipping to Canada and USA:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...category=48621

The 800Mah would be nice.

looks sweet planning on selling those? any pics of the supra behind it, looks interesting from the portion I can see.

If there is enough interest in the aluminum parts I'll sell them, they take a little while to make.

LOL
I put that car behind there like that on purpose it is just a test cut chassis of a chassis I plan on making/selling but I dont want to reveal the rear end just yet.(I'd hate for someone to copy it before I'm ready to do anything with it).LOL
Notice the 6 cells, and there is some cool stuff in the back that makes it simple and still Xmod body compatible.It does not use the Xmod electronics .....yet.
Just a spy, a XXL and sub micro servo.

I cut a small piece of that new chassis tonight and tomorrow I'll cut the top plate and front diff cover.

it looks great! got an ETA for the new chassis? from what i can see, you have little room to put in the xmod PCB with the batteries in the L formation but it's your design and i'm sure you've got a solution for that. keep us updated man, dying to see what you've come up with for the rear chassis section

TypeZer0, I dont plan on using the Xmod electronics at this time but I feel I could get them in there if I wanted too.
I'm going to be using a Novak spy, novak XXl and a submicro servo .(if it has the torque)

I started out planning on using Xmod electronics but since they suck compared to hobby grade stuff I ditched them in favor of the novak stuff.Even so there is interest from people who still want the chassis so it will all work out one way or another.At least I can stuff six AAA's in there and it wont be top heavy.

There is nothing really spectacular going on in the rear but it is a simple but effective design.

Oh with that chassis I'm building I have had all electronics, batteries in the car and my RSX body locked unto it.

i bet the rear design would incorporate a suspension setup similar if not the same as the front :D. i thought about that but i'm not good at fabricating stuff myself, especially chassis components.

No NO it is simpler than that.
It is just a simple, easy to work on setup back there.

I'd love to do a rear suspension upgrade since it could use it but I have other plans before doing that, I would do a front suspension mod before the back.


Aluminum center shaft bearing supports
I have a cool wheel mod planned
An aluminum motor mount heatsink oh but it would be adjustable

oooh, now i'm even more intrigued!! looking forward to results and pics, hopefully soon! :p

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hey slugbugg I told you man I want to get that chassis too. I have a novak spy xxl and and servo looking for a new home.. :D

Nosser, I'm glad I can count on you and a few others who want to use this chassis without the stock Xmod electronics.


Right now as I type this (8:10p.m.) the top chassis piece is being cut out of the same type of aluminum as the chassis brace pieces.

I wont be able to cut the bottom tonight since I really dont wont to be out there untill 2:00a.m.

I want to be able to posts pictures of it but it will be friday before I can post pictures.

Slugg,
love the aluminum it looks slick man. Keeep me updated on your progress bro, oh and i think you know who this is....COUGH..XH...COUGH

Email me man i have some questions for ya:)

if you're making a bunch to sell, how much do you estimate it would cost us?

I'd love to spit out a price but I feel very strongly that If I put a price out there before I can posts pics of the whole chassis it may put some people off.


But if you are willing to tell me a ballpark price you are willing to pay for a chassis then go ahead. lol

Well I'm not buying untill I see it but a ball park price for me would be 20-25$ or even higher because I know that you are using good quality material. Good quality material means everything just like in a hobby class rc car. For example the radio you are using is some great stuff!! Novak XXL is already 50-60$ rite there so I know this will be a really serious racer with the combination of the equipment and material you are using. Great work, keep it up!!

bjv5, Thanks for the input, it's stuff like that that helps me out but I'm afraid to ask most the time.
See it is hard to put a price on it untill you can actually see it.

Thats why I try not to do that but I can put a price on the aluminum braces I made.

There is one thing you guys need to know, I'm making these parts to try and compete/beat mini-Z's that is my goal and that is what I need to stay focused on.
Even after I get the chassis done I have to make center shaft bearing supports because the RS ones are junk, then the front suspension/steering is to sloppy and needs to be tightened up and travel increased.

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hey slugbugg do you have any miniz's I just fix mine since I had burnt fets. I rarely use the xmod anymore. The feel of the miniz is soooo much better I almost forgot since I havent used it for so long. Even my stock overland is faster than my sbp xmod let alone my 4x4 fet upgraded overland. Hopefully the standard electronics will take the toy feel out of the xmod. are you going to have a cf chassis or fiberglass chassis or just aluminum. I would prefer something lighter than aluminum

I dont have a mini-Z, I may still pick one up but I'd just like to get the Xmod up to speed if I can and be able to use hobby grade electronics in it.

I plan on doing a carbon fiber chassis the aluminum is just easy on my endmills but ultimately the CF will be the best material I think.

I finally found/went to the K and S engineering site and found that the aluminum sheet is in fact 6061-t6 so that makes me very happy since that is very good quality aluminum.

I now have my chassis cut out of that aluminum and will be working out a few kinks with the servo steering linkage and hopefully post pics Friday night.

Re: my civic with some new parts
 

Can I ask about the xmod in the top of the picture? What is the clear chassis made from and can I see some pictures of it ? Is it plexi? And does it run on 6 AAA's

The clear chassis is Plexiglas
I have not run it since the plexiglas is far to brittle and will just break.(it cracked slightly while puting in a screw)
I use the plexiglas to keep from wasting good material since plexiglas is inexpensive plus it makes it easy to see how it all fits.
I have been working on the chassis for a while now and it takes time and I need to test fit stuff once in a while so now I cut it out of plexiglas to test fit it.I used fiberglass twice before but it is more expensive and it kills my endmills very fast which upsets me a bit when that happens.I have thought about cutting it out of lexan just to see how it would work but I havnt done it yet.
The lexan might be tough enough to run with but it is very flexible.
(I didnt have lexan when I cut the plexiglas chassis)
I'm just to busy and the chassis takes about 6.5 to 7.5 hours to cut out completely so I try not to just use it on anything/everything.
Aluminum is cheap and I will be using more of that untill I get the right endmills to cut carbon fiber and fiberglass.


It does have six cells but it will not use the stock Xmod electronics.
I wanted to have one to run so I have cut one out of aluminum, I am excited about being able to run it soon.
-6 cells
-novak spy ESC
-novak XXL
and it all fits under an Xmod body.

I will be posting pictures soon enough.

Slugbugg, I could possibly help you out with your tooling needs. I own a grinding co. that sharpens metal cutting tools for the machining industries. I always have some used tooling laying around that I would be happy to part with for shipping cost. I can also sharpen the tooling you have.

Carbon fiber and fiberglass are abrasive materials and do eat up endmills quickly. Carbide will last a bit longer and TiN or TiCN coated mills will last even longer, but as you know cost much more.

I would be happy to donate my services for the cause.;)

MaxxThrasher, Thanks for the offer that sounds like it could help me out.
I have gotten info from some fine people in the taig forum that I should be using a PCB endmill for cutting CF and fiberglass but I havnt found a good supplier of those yet I have found one place but they are difficult to deal with so I'm still looking.

My DSL line goes online saturday and If all goes well I'll be zipping around the net faster finding more sources.

Just take your time Slug. I know for a fact that if u use the right equipment into this plexiglass chassis it will hang if not beat a Mini-Z! So just take your time and I am pretty sure the final product will NOT be a dissapointment. This will probably be the most serious XMOD racer yet!

hmmm,novak spy ESC, novak XXL, completely custom fabricated chassis, and 6 aaa batteries? other than being able to fit xmods bodies on it and probably having the same suspension, what xmods characteristics have you NOT completely changed?
:D :D

-Colin

i noticed your sig just now and im too lazy to email. are the three shafts the three different lengths? ifso, you might have a potential customer.

colin4371, I havnt touched the front/rear axles/diffs (yet) or the wheels (yet) or the front axle bulkheads (yet) I most likely will never replace that rear black axle/motor pod since it is just to perfect and I most likely will never replace the front body tabs.

You have to understand that I think the Xmod is a good overall RC car it just suffers from some poor quality materials.


XMODADDICT, the shafts are for the three different chassis lengths.

slugbugg, I sent you an email for the CF driveshafts...