6 Cell Mod...7.2V
 

OK, I broke down and did it anyway...without regard to any damage that might occur. I have only tested this in the kitchen cuz it's raining outside. From the drag race tests I have done, all I can say there is a big difference. The tests were done with bone stock cars, and fresh batteries in both (even switched the batteries to one another.). The 6 cell far out accelerated the 4 cell. I hope to do some extensive testing tomorrow outside. I want to get a durabilty test to see if the electronics can withstand it. I have let the car sit here powered up for 30 minutes now with no signs of overheating, etc.

If all goes well, I WILL find a way to fit these in the body!

cool

can u take a pic of the where the wires r going cause i want to try to do this

when u figure it out please post a step by step

I just cut the wire running from the negative on the left side over to the positive on the right side. (black wire on the bottom) I then ran the negative from the left to the positive on the new pack, and then ran the negative from the new pack to the positive on the right side.

Like this, the body will not fit on, but after I confirm the car will take long extensive use like this, I will mod it so the body fits.

I have done this big whup...jopking ofcorse i have done this and i found a key to making the body fit.cut the lighting system posts and move the lighting system to any one screw thats out of the way..If you use a hair dryer you can manipulate the shape of the body with out effecting th paint and its not very noticable..I have the supra .probly the tightest fitting one and that resulted in just making a scoop on the winshield.,seeing how its bLACK ITS not noticeable.I heated the body up past hand burnong point(wore gloves)and you have feel it bending easy i put the body back on while still hot and press down hard..this formed room for the holder.then just leave it there till cool and walla.The plastic of the batt holder wont melt as easily as the body,and its not reaLLY Melting the body just making it more pliable.There is no running of paint or creases.Dont have a cam just my experiances

When you have so many spare cars, what's to worry if you blow one up? :lol:

Just get a Mini Cooper body and it'll fit fine... :p

did you try 5 cells first or did you jump straight to 6 cell?

5 rechargables equal same volts as 4 alkalines..so no went straight to 6 cells.

wow looks great i heard that the electronics can handle it well see:cool:

I hope the results r good i hope it doesnt like crash and burn cause rite when results come out im gonna do this 4 sure :D

Ive been running a week at 7.2 and no probs yet

I went straight to the 6 cell, for the reason mentioned above, the 5 cell NiMH only gives the power of 4 alkalines.

it may match the voltage of 4 alkalines but nimh and nicd can dump out more current than alkalines, that's why 4 nimh is already faster than 4 alk's

you have a point there..but over all nicads push the most ..but dont carry the constant volts for as long..

Here it is with everything installed.

Here is how I did it...

http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthr...threadid=14792

well my 2 cents for adding a body would be to hook up sum of those hearing aid batteries (size and weight) to the top and then make a jumper so u dont have to use them all the time, due to not being rechargeable and all.... or u could get sum more of those zip zap batteries (since u kno how much volts it can take now so try differnt types of batteries to see if you can get size down with a rechargeable battery... thats what i would do if i had a job to pay for this if i broke it, LOL

how did you get that clip thing like that also could you make a step by step tutorial

The clip came from the motor and chassis clip from another chassis which is being used for parts. You can use sta-cons too, which are sorta like quick connects you can get at RS. I will do a tutorial when I do one for the AWD car.

My question is, when is someone gonna try a pair of 9v batteries? :D

Aww, yeah, 18v of power...

*car goes really fast for about 1 sec, than explodes in a hiuge fireball*

For what it's worth, I gave a pair of lithium polymer cells a shot last night and all I can say is WOW! 8.4V fresh off a charge, 7.2 nominal and lighter than 4 AAA cells. THe stock electronics seemed to take it in stride although I can't be too sure that I am loosing some power due to overloading the thing (= heat).

I removed the stock battery holders and used double sided foam tape to hold one on each side of the chassis. The body fits too.

I should warn you though that if you discharge these batteries below 3V per cell they will be ruined. So I have to work on a cutoff circuit.


These things are cool, but don't tell the owner (my son) I said so.

6 AAA mod
 

I got mine to fit like a champ in my supra body. I am going to take some pics and start a thread when I get home tonight

Quick dis-connect
 

I did mine kind of cheap. I had a old motherboard with fan. I pulled the fan header off the board and cut the wire off the fan. Whala.. a quick disconnect. If you dont have spare parts lying around I would check Radio shack or a hardware store. They would definetly have something to make one

My quick connect came from a spare chassis and a stock motor, but you should be able to find something else if you look at any electronics store.

I used this plug. It works great.

http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/micro_plug.html

Heres my little setup
 

I spaced my batteries out a little more

Hey BC......How are you liking the Stage 10 Motor?

I don't have one yet...and at the price he is asking, I might not get one. This thing goes fast enough for me......for now. Besides, I need to save my money for Emaxx hop ups.....now those are expensive!

hey bc do u have a micro rs4 do u or anybody recommend themand a place to buy them.

i fit 6 under my gtr

Opps my bad BC........I meant Cmuench

FYI:
You can use the battery holder from the chassis, and it will fit on top of the chassis and you can put the Civic body on without any modification to the body or chassis. If you don't have a spare chassis to rob the battery holder from, you can order a replacement one from RS.

is there any chance it will fit under a skyline with little no modification?

Yep, just tried it. Slapped the body on and snapped the tab lock without any problems. No bushings needed or no need to shave anything on the body.

Here is a pic of where I mount it. This is without a heat sink on the motor, but there is a gap between the motor and the bottom of the battery holder the sam as the height of the heat sink.

part # for replacement battery holder?

Left Side: 12414298
Right Side: 12414306

Check CJ's FAQ for more numbers...

EDIT: I forgot, you do have to remove two little tabs on the bottom of the battery holder, but no biggie at all.

6 cell
 

Hey Bad Company,

I got a bit of a problem. When i install my 6 cell mod it flies. When ever I install my 6 cell mod and logic lights it fries the antenna internals and the range gets shot. Im on my 3rd car now cause I can never find why this is occuring. Just to make sure i was not shorting out everything, I replaced my quick disconnect with the quick disconnect that is used on the motor. I also tested the final output with a voltameter and evreything is in range. I got a new car but i am hesitent on weather I should re-install it or not. Please help me BC

well if it happened on 2 cars already don't install the lights
my 02. cents

The thing is that other have gotten it to work fine with the upped current and lights. I just want to find out how this was done