Corvette Project 2 - C5R
 

Well, I'm working on adapting over the C5R Mini Z body to my RSX. It fits well with the wheelbase in its longest setting.
http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokinetik/C5R1.JPG

I am planning to adapt over the wheels from the model so that they fit the wheelwells the way they are supposed to. You can see in the pic that the offset is radically different.

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokinetik/offset.JPG

The body mounts are almost the same at the front of the car. (Stock RSX mount is the black one, C5R is the white one) The rear will need to be fabricated. You can also see where I've sacrificed a set of wheels to adapt over the C5R wheels. I will be gluing the centers into the Kyosho wheels to make them fit.

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokine..._bodymount.JPG

More to come as the project progresses...

thats tony danza bossy, right there

mmmm C5 yummy! that will be awesome man. i love C5s.

Made a new front body mount tonight from my junker and a flat piece of plastic. I've now run into a bit of a snag. The clearance of this body is much lower than the stock RSX body. Right now, both the crystal and the steering servo are preventing me from mounting the body the way that I want it. That means one of two things is probably going to have to happen. Either I grind away the offending section of the steering servo, or I cut holes in the body to give the required clearance. :mad:

Can you post a tutorial on how to mount a mini-z body onto an Xmod?

Thanx

that looks like my micro rs4 body, hmm

Ugly, ugly, ugly.

The further along I get on this project, the uglier it gets.

The body mounts themselves are a cakewalk compared to the clearance issues I'm having. :rolleyes:

First:
The crystal. It looks as though I can turn the small top board around 180 degrees to move the crystal back where it does not present a problem. In order to facilitate this move, I am eliminating a large chunk of plastic from the area, as shown here:

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokinetik/plastic.jpg

Note that I will be leaving the motor mount area intact. Only the upper section needs to go. I already eliminated the connector for the lights. I'll never use them anyway.

Next problem:
The steering servo. Not as bad as I first thought it would be. A bit of filing, and I have gained a bit of clearance. Yes, there is now a big hole in the top of my steering servo, but I doubt it will present a big problem. I can always find a way to seal it if need be.

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokinetik/servo.jpg

Next problem:
Front suspension. The arms that the "dampers" mount to hit the body. That means I either have to cut springs, or revamp the front suspension geometry.

Something tells me I would've been better off buying a Mini Z at this point... :rolleyes:

so you are not gonna finish it?:(

Well, one of two things is going to happen...

1. This body will be used on a highly customized XMod.

2. All my Xmods stuff goes on Ebay and I buy a Mini Z to use this body on.

So yes, I'm still working on it. Tonight I will put the electronics back in and see if the suspension is the only remaining hurdle.

That's what you think...

Besides, it'll probably be just like real life... your car may be faster, but I still turn better times... :p

yah but i bet his will look phater. lets see a pic of your slick.


back on topic. keep it up man the problems you have been having are really only minor problems. its when you need to start reforming the chassis that you have to worry.

Finally, some real progress...

I really had to remove alot of material on the steering servo to resolve the clearance problem. It sits almost flush with the bottom of the windshield now, and the top right screw is not even used anymore.

For the crystal problem, I removed the upper plastic section and flipped the board over. It is held in place nicely when the front crossbrace is installed, and sits much lower in the chassis now.

Here's the problem section up close...

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokinetik/servo2.JPG

And the result:

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokine...R_mounted1.JPG

All is not good, though, as the steering servo is now not moving at all. I think either some loose plastic filings are floating around inside or else I put it together wrong. Minor issue at this point.

Still need to resolve the front suspension issue. I'm thinking cut springs is the way I'll be going. In the pic, there are no springs in the front at all. It's sitting on the "bumpstops".

see, its coming along!
keep up the good work:)

Well, mounting is finished now. The body stays on quite well, and most importantly, all the hacks that I had to do to the electronics haven't destroyed the functionality of the car. This could be my backup car if I get a straight driveshaft for it and another set of bearings.

Here's a couple shots of the body mounted and ready to run.

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokine...R_mounted3.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokine...R_mounted4.jpg

The last remaining thing to do is to fabricate wheels with additional offset in order to fill the wheelwells better.

Here's a shot of the chassis, showing how I mounted the body. There are some vertical ribs inside the body that are used for the stock Mini Z mounts. I cut these off and sanded the surface flat, then stuck on some velcro. The width of this body makes it perfect for this mounting method. The arrows show the front body mount that I fabricated, the velcro attached to the stock battery clips, and the hacked steering servo that was neede to clear the low hood of this body.

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokine...unt_detail.jpg

WOW! That is very cool. You have inspired me to try that with my mini-z. Are you planning to add lights in it?

You should do a proper tutorial and Bad Company can post it in the sticky for Xmods mods.

Good work.

C5R project is completed. I was actually just running the car around my living room with the body and Mini-Z wheels on with no issues. Compare with the previous set of pictures and note how the wheels come right out to the fenders like they are supposed to.

http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokinetik/C5R_done1.jpg


http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokinetik/C5R_done2.jpg


http://users.adelphia.net/~neurokinetik/C5R_done3.jpg

howd u get mini z wheels to fit on the stock hubs?

I used the little black things that hold them on the axles of the AutoScale chassis (not the "lugnuts", but the things that sit on the inside of the wheels). I pushed them into the centers of the wheels, and glued them in place with CA glue. I trimmed them flush with the back of the wheel, then drilled them to fit (barely) on the axles. It took a little filing of the hole to get them on, and they fit very tightly. Tight enough that they actually don't slip when I drive it.

So is this mod a One way road?

Or can you take off that body and use your stock xmod body again if you like?

Well, the only part of this mod that is permanent that would effect using the stock body us the front body mount. I cut off the mounting tab that was there and glued a new one in its place. I could have used the body mount that came with the AutoScale chassis, but I was having to fill and redrill holes in order to attach it to the XMods chassis. The wheels could be changed back, but the more they are mounted/dismounted, the looser the fit will become on the axles.

But anyway, yes, it's a one-way mod in this case, but it doesn't have to be.

neurokinetik,

can you email me a tutorial, supagrover51@hotmail.com . I want to mount a WRX mini-Z body but i want a 2-way road so i can use my stock supra body. I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you

SICK that all i have to say i love it try to make a nissan skyline nismo r-34 that would be sick

Why would I do that? XMods already come stock with an R34 body. Where is the challenge? :p

Dude- I did not have to change anything but the mounts
 

I have to say you did alot of mods that I did not have to do. I got my Porsche GT3 RS body on just by messing with the mounts. Maybe that corvette body was a bit different but my Porsche body is a mini-z too. I ended up using the front clip that came with the Porsche body. I enlarged the holes of both the shock mounts and screw holes. I then bolted the front on with small brass screws/nuts. I then trimed the front mount to make the wheels fit perfect in the arches. I then applied a little heat and bent the front plastic mount to get the right ride hieght in the front perfect. The rear mount retained the xmod mounting. I just fabricated a small plastic part then attached the stock black rear mounting clip from my acura body. I just then had to epoxy the parts together. Then I epoxied the part to the body. That was it. perfect fit. I flipped the rear wheels to fill the wheel well. Maybe I should but a tutorial together to save you guys some time. It only took me 30 min. The thing is solid. I crashed a couple times and no breaks in the mounting. It is built to last.http://www.plavanracing.com/DSC00382.JPG

The low hood of the C5R made for alot of extra work. The body just wouldn't fit properly without trimming the steering servo and getting the crystal out of the way. Look how little the fenders rise above the wheels on the C5R compared to your Porsche. Note that the hood is actually even lower than that.

As for the wheels, well, I just wanted to fit the Mini-Z wheels for display purposes. When I run the car, I just flip the wheels inside out, both front and rear, and it looks perfect.

Nice job on the 911. I thought about doing the rear mount the same way that you did, but I didn't want to have to glue something to the rear window, since these bodies have transparent windows and you'd see it.

Ahhh.. I see what you are talking about
 

Ok, I see what you are talking about. You can already see the inside (motor, wires etc.) so adding a small mount for stock mounting is what I was going for. Anyone with an xmod could just take my body and put it on their car without any mods. The mount does not look bad at all. Plus it works great.
That velcro idea was great too.

So what you're telling me is that I should probably forget about that Ford GT40 Mk II.

Yeah, highly unlikely you could make that one work, unless you like the look of a 4x4 GT40... :lol: