9v batteries and zz's do mix
 

I tryed my zz with 9v battery and it flies. Of coarse i had to lift it about an inch but it flies.:D :blift: btrc Sry no picture i dont have a digital camera:mad:

a 9volt? damn boy. you hafta come so me that so i can take a picture of it andstick on the board.

Unless you bypassed it to the motor well, you're lying. A 9 volt will blow the pcb and fry it in 5 seconds.

I've been thinking of trying to hook up a motor to a 9V and see how it runs. Ima go do that.

Edit I just hooked a 2.1 to a 9V and I can smell something burning in the motor hehe im gonna try it on a 2.8.

I actually have a motor off a bigger rc and i taped the 9v to the side of the car. Its cool and fast but looks wierd i took it off today and tried to lower my 350z but i think somethings wrong so i took it off and just put the 2f2f Lancer on.I just got my first zz yesterday and started mod'n and crap.

why not try to put mufflers?Paint Pin Stripes?Dual Cell Mod?TRI Cell mod?Drop your body?Make Some Underglow?Find some Rims?

theres alot more to do to your ZZ's dude... you just have to be creative.

Uhh WTF are you talking about A ZZ runing on a 9V is kool it is creative and it was something to do to a Zip-Zap I'm accually wokring on a simliar one runnign on a 9V. I don't get what u wree talking about man.

I took a motor from a larger rc which was also a larger motor then taped the 9v to the side. Good idea Supra......

until you get a pic i will not believe you

9v through the pcb is a downright lie. people fry motors at 6v sometimes. unless you modded something, which i doubt you did considering you are asking questions like "whats a pcb" and "whats an led" it wouldnt work. you need a regulator of some sort. and either way i highly doubt it would fly, i hooked 4 aaa batteries once and it was too much weight to handle. maybe 9 makes the difference by i dont see it happening. borrow a camera from someone and take a pic.

He's not lying I have completed my 9V Dragster. I just bypassed the motor and wired the motor and the battery direcly. And when you wanna race hook up the wires and off yah go baby.

can you really explain how to do this and if it would handle any of the ZZ motors i have 4 9Vs sittin around and does it do wheelies? And how did you make the body higher?

I didnt use a ZZ motor. I used one from a Tyco RC (TM). Its your prob if you dont believe me.

Well, I believe you! But it's just HARD to believe is what I'm saying. And Wildo3 once took a 12 volt camera battery and bypassed that and his car flew. So, all I'm saying is that if you hooked it to the pcb, you can serve your hungry computer some fried chips.

If you wanted to play it safe you could always run your 9v batt through a 5 volt regulator. It would still rock and allow your board to run at a safer voltage with all the current it needs.

I want to do this, only using the board to fire relays for some non-standard experimenting! :D

I believe speedy. A guy that works at the radio shack by my house did the same thing to one. It FLEW!! The only prob with his was it was just way too top heavy. Any kind of turn would flip it. He was running on carpet (the office type carpeting you would find in a store.) Maybe that's what made it worse on the cornering. He was telling me that he had better results running the stock green motor with the 9V as far as a gain in performance. He told me the faster motors didn't really show that much of an improvement. Regardless that's an awesome mod speedy. Hope you can get a digital camera soon and post some pics. I just got a unbelievably great deal on one! It's a fuji 2600. $130 bucks, brand new, first quality.(not a refurb) :)

b.s.



your pcb would frie unles you hooked it up to like a 2 inch in diameter engine and the weight would over power the steering and accel

letalone youd **** up your axels

um..no B.S?
 

Actually, there are threads on this board a million years old regarding how much voltage you can shove though a ZIP PCB. You can go over 9 volts, it's been done, it's been tested, it's been proven to work, so accept it and move on folks.

ok then i tried it though and now my zip smells like burnt curcitry


i sorta beleive you but get me a pic and a tape of it runn for more than a minute then i will belive fully

oh that Zip has long since been recycled...it was just plain rediculous with that big ol' 9v sitting on top. I know there are multiple threads on here that were huge when Zips were first released. People put them through all sorts of tests, just for the sake of research. I think that dude Stridex was the one that used to smoke 1/10 scales with his 9volt Zip. Sorry, no pics or vids here, just have faith brother!

I find this hard to believe. I hooked up the original NOS motor to a 9v battery and it fried it in a few seconds. What kind of motor are you using and how did you bypass the PCB?

could you run a 9 volt through the pcb

You can't run 9VDC through the PCB. No way, no how. You could bypass the PCB with a switching transistor as was done in the 4.5VDC dragster mod. Even if you did manage this, 9VDC will fry any micro motor it runs . The motors are rated at 1.2VDC, you can up this to around 5VDC. Any more than that and you will fry the motor. These are facts, no way around them. I don't see a huge 1/10 scale motor fitting on the back of a Zip either. All you would get is your front end in the air. And a 9v battery strapped on one side would not be stable at all. Not at any speed. Imagine the size and weight of that. It's bigger than the chassis! And, I'm having a hard time seeing a Zip raised 1 inch. How did you pull that off? I don't think any of this is true. Sorry, but this goes way beyond the realm of believability.

And a BIG DITTO to what Azimov posted...

Yeah, you're right. Everybody that's already done it like a year ago is lying just because they wanna sound cool. That's ok guys, you just keep thinking that it's impossible. Keep telling yourself it can't be done. Don't even bother trying, it won't work anyway. *sigh*

if someone could jsut post a SINGLE little image or movie clip of it moving i would be satisfied.

MAYBE A FACT

QUOTE]Originally posted by Azimov
...you can up this to around 5VDC...[/quote] AND YOU GOT THIS SPEC FROM WHERE?

BASED ON WHAT?

You just can't make up numbers and declare them facts.

I think what you guys are missing is that a Zip motor without any resistance what-so-ever will probably fry on 9volts. It's the RPM's that hurt it, not the voltage. Anyway, a Zip motor in a car has the friction of the gears and the tires, all under the weight of the battery...so in reality it will never get a chance to reach the insane RPM's that it would out of the car. As for the PCB, it can handle 9volts. What it can't handle is lots of current. A 9volt battery doesn't produce enough current to cook the board. Starting to make any sense?

No, I got the point just fine. What you are missing is the facts of inductive loads. A motor actually pulls much more current under stall conditions than it does running freely. It isn't the speed of the motor it is the voltage levels. The small contacts inside can't handle it. They burn like a fuse. As to the PCB. Go get your best car. Hook a 9VDC battery to the PCB and tell me what happens. A 9VDC battery will fry the transisters. They aren't rated to take that switching voltage. If you saw someone claiming to do this, they were mistaken. Just hook that baby up, and see what starts to make sense to you. And none of this supports the wild mechanical claims made of putting a huge motor in the back and an equally huge and heavy battery strapped to the side. Nope, sorry, if this car exists, it doesn'r work, the PCB is toast, and it's lying on it's side.

I don't.

You actually have no idea what the max voltage one of these motors can take. You're guessing because you don't think they can run on 9volts. Your guesses are NOT factual information.

As for making a car run with 9 volts, I did...last year when these cars first came out. So did a lot of other folks. Like I said before, just go on believing it's impossible. As is usually the case, only the people that have done it will know for certain.

i just tried it the motor and the pcb can take 9 volt i will get pictures soon

OK i hooked upi a 9 volt to a 1 gen pcb it had the blue gears and a speed motor when I strapped the 9 volt to the car I could tell it was tough on the car do to the weight. So i stripped out all the un necassary parts on the inside. And it helped the weight problem a little. I set it all up and let it go and it went as fast as a 3 gen pcb with the 34,000 rpm motor and red gears.

but wait, that's impossible! Hehehe..kidding. At least you settled things once and for all. Now take that damn 9volt off and add some bling bling...it goes a lot further.

I'd just like to add my comments.

First of all I don't have any ZZ. I've got some ZZ pcb's care of some homies from da hood but that's about it. What generation they are I don't know but I've found out is the following.

First of all we have to look at how the 9V affects the pcb. The circuit can be divided into two parts, the rx/controller and the drive electronics.

The RX/controller part of the circuit is driven off what is called a DCDC Converter. In the case of the ZZ, this is the ME301 chip (search google for datasheet). The max it can take is 8V, the min is 0.8V. So any input voltage in the range of 0.8 -> 8V will always give you a 3V output that the RX/controller circuit drives on. ZZ and Bcg are very similar in this respect.

If you were to put 9V on this it could possibly work, but more than likely damage the ME301 DCDC convertor because it is 1V out of spec. This can have mixed results though. I've used many DCDC converters to get many different circuits going (indicator lights, headlights, knight rider lights, all you guys have seen 'em) and depending on the tolerance of these converters, sometimes you CAN put more voltage though them than what is specified. My bet is to go with the ME301 not working though.

The drive electronics is another story. I've got a circuit that will help the analysis, I did this for my Custom MOSFET H-Bridge Project over at bitpimps.
http://www.prahranpianos.com/bit_g/h...rrent_flow.JPG

First of all the ZZ board's I have show the resistors in the circuit (R15,R14) as 220 ohm, just to clear that up.

Putting 9V on the H-bridge increases the current like nothing else, why? 'Cause of good old ohms law V=I*R. In this case the resistance of the circuit doesn't change. The motor is the same motor, pre and post 9V. The transistors and two resistors are the same, pre and post 9V. So given that resistance DOESN'T change, something must change. Re-working te equation to I=V/R gives us the notion that for R not changing and V increasing (ie: from 1.2V to 9V) that means that I(current) MUST increase.

I've never put 9V to a pcb and never put 9V to a motor, cause my instincts say not to. But that's just me, Im a firm beliver in each to their own.

But, putting 9V to the pcb and pressing fwd/rev would probably blow one of the H-bridge transistors BEFORE it blows the motor. Azimov's right in the statement of a motor drawing more current under load with max current reached when the motor is seized. See the "New dual cell" thread in Bit Science, I've posted current measurements there to back this up.

Than again, I'd like to see some proof that this would work via video if someone could do it. Cause ultimately I could spew forward more crap like this post for ever in a day, but it mean's bugger all in the face of conclusive proof.

ph2t.

I agree with all of this. After all ph2t has researched the guts of these things quite extensively. No one has posted a video to prove the claim that the PCB will handle this much power. His reasoning reflects my own in the tolerances of the components involved. I would say that at most it may work for a very short period of time until the switching transisters in the h-bridge overheat to the point of failure. But, I would bet the forward transister will pop almost immediately. All in all, it seems an unwise modification. You are pushing the electronics past safe limits in order to lug a battery around that outweighs the entire car by quite a bit. And no one has stepped forward to defend the mechanical claims made here. Nothing yet has convinced me to believe any of these claims.
This one bothers me too. What are all those parts you cleaned out of there. As far as I know the only thing redundant in the setup you mention would be the stock battery. That's not much weight difference between it and that brick of a 9V. I doubt it performed as you say. Which makes me doubt that you actually did this. This is part of my problem with believing the original claims. The mechanical claims of strapping a 9V to the side combined with a huge motor in the back and raised an inch are far fetched at best. I've found that when some things don't seem right, then most likely all of the claims are bogus. At this point, I feel this is one of the most exagerated threads on the boards so far.

all i have to say is you need to show us proof, you are trying to tell us that you put 9 volts through the motor, well ok fine but now you claim you put it through the pcb which in all means isn't meant to hold that much volts so it would probably fry after a little while, and putting it straight through your engine doesnt help out much because eventhough you have a bigger motor you still dont know if it can last long...a regular zip/bit motor should last liek 10 seconds or less directly putting 9volts through it(correct me if my time is wrong) but i dont even think you can drive teh car if you have a 9 volt battery taped to the side of your car...theres a thing called weight distribution and that 9 volt off the side of your car...would throw it way off balance and tip it to that side

I just did a forum search and found 19 threads that mention a 9V battery. This one:
http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthr...8122&highlight
shows a post where 12 volts was pumped through a motor. The poster claims that the motors could take it and failed due to melting the endcap due to friction. The internal contacts were unharmed according to his observations. So, it looks like the motors may take 9 volts, at least for a short time. So, I retract my declarative statement on that. However, there is no post claiming the PCB can handle that voltage level. The post sited here even says that it won't take it. Though he did motor tests only using kit racer frames. So, I don't see any threads on this site supporting the PCB taking 9VDC. I'm not willing to sacrafice a perfectly good micro to prove it to myself, so I guess I'm stuck being skeptical. You could do this to a mosfet modded car though. They can handle the voltage. Well some fets can. This gives me concern for a video proving anything as well. A mosfetted car could do it (assuming the DC/DC converter is out of spec enough to take it). A car with a paper battery made from scans of a real 9V constructed in Photoshop would make a very convincing video as well. I suppose the only way to really prove it to oneself is to bite the bullet and hook one to a functioning stock car. I'm just not sure I'm willing to pay 20.00 for the proof:D .

I'm a bullitbiter so to speak...For one I do not own a microracer I'm orientating over here for my lowrider modelcars scalling from 1/64 to 1/10 all hooked up with motors to do all the hop and move stuff. http://www.e-zone.nl/jevries
I fried 5 circuitboards ranging from 3V to 6V RC cars...
The 3V ones couldn't handle the 9V battery...well mabye for 20 sec than smoke came out of the car....not the motor but the circuitboard was fried.
The 6V RC handle the 9V battery well...but a 9,6 accupack fried the board because of the high amps.

I would love to believe these small and tiny circuit boards could handle a 9V battery...leading to a relay instead of a small motor but as stated before...where's the proof.
let me see someone pick a 9V battery hook it up to the connectors, taping it and letting the car run and steer..you would make my day since it opens lot's of doors for me.

Well, I'm not willing to try it with any of my Zips. I have a couple of gutted clones that still have good PCBs in them and I may sacrifice one of them for the cause. I know they are close to a Zip in most ways. It may not be definative proof that a Zip would fry, but it would give a good idea. I may try it just for the heck of it.

[edit: moronic comment removed by me]