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How to do Tab Lowering
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I've had some people ask me how I do it, so I put this brief how to together. By no means is the best way to do it, but I get good results.
The first thing I do is make the new tabs by cutting an old credit card (not your parent's) and bending them like so... |
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Next, I take the existing front tab completely off with a dremel. The pic show how the new tab will be mounted by super glue. You will attach this ant the height that you want the front of the car to sit. (You may need to hold the car up to it get an idea.)
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Next you do the same to the rear. This time you only remove the existing tab back to the heatsink screw. Notice the notch in the credit card, this allows the tab to mounted around the screw mount.
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Here is an overall pic of how things should look before glueing everything together. Again, you mount the tabs at whatever hieght is necessary for your car, mine is usually 1/8" lower than the existing. You still may need to shave some of the fenders away for certain bodies.
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Here is the dremel bit I use. It is also the perfect size for cutting the extra slots in the body if you rather go that route.
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Here is what the front should look like...
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Here is what the rear should look like...
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nice job..that clears up alot
what wheels are those? custom made? nice:cool: |
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The wheels are from the Muscle Machines Import Tuners. You can change the hubcaps between the different Import Tuner wheels just like the Zip Zap wheels. They even have the disc brakes behind them.
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how and where do you get the import tuner
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I get mine at Wal Mart. They are the Muscle Machines Import Tuners.
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how do u install them?
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I posted this in another thread...
As for mounting the wheels. I remove them from whatever car they were on. Then carefully twist off the front wheel pins from the knuckles. Next carefully hand drill holes in the front wheels. Then reinsert the wheel pins through the new front wheels. It should still be nice and tight fit. For the rear wheels, I twist off the existing Zip wheels fron the axle, but leave the gear. Carefully drill holes in the new wheels the exact diameter of the axle. Put a drop of super glue on the end of the axle and press fit the new wheel all the way up to the gear. (You may have to shave some of the rear of the wheel first.) On the other side, slide a piece of Q-Tip stick over the axle.(Mine was 1/8" long, but may vary on wheels.) Now put the glue on the axle and press the wheel on. Adjust how far the wheel sets equal to the other side. Cut the Q-Tip to fit between the wheel and the notch in the chassis. |
I have a huge problem with the tab lowering. After about 4 times of taking off the body, the tab gets off as well. IS it a matter of letting the super glue dry longer? :confused:
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How long do you let it dry? It should only take about 2 minutes or so. Also make sure you remove all of the existing tab. Make sure the area you are installing the new tab is smooth and you get a good surface to surface mount. Also make sure you are using a good brand of superglue. I use Instant Krazy Glue. I 've taken my bodies off many many times with no problems.
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Yes you MUST let the glue dry properly! also make sure the tabs on your creditcard mount are flush with the chassis! Somtimes when cutting the card it can warp slightly and wont seat correctly.. I am currenty doing this mod and it is going great! Thanks for the tips Ahh5hit!
BTW: I went to my local hobby shop and got some airplane glue that is of higher quality than regular super glue yet dries just as fast! Its called "Super Jet" super glue! You need to get Medium vicosity cyanoacrylate glue.. Pure CA or Cyanoacrylate glue is what you need but dont think its high quality because it says cyanaocrylate on it.. I bought a tube of "Loctite Quick Tite" glue and it even said "Cyanoacrylate Ester" on the back but it did NOT bond with plastic nearly as well and it was the most expensive glue in Walmart at the time.. So please do make sure your using the right glue! I know it sounds stupid but it really does make a difference! |
Bumping this for all of the new folks asking how...
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***This is for INFO only and should NOT be taken as an attack toward any comments previously made in this thread"
Keep in mind "Super Glue" was developed initially for use in the medical industry as an alternative to stitches. They released it as a houshold adhesive in order to insure patent and other product protection rights were legally theirs while waiting for the FDA to approve it for medical use (10 years later!) ! I highly recomend Plasti-Bond (ACE hardware) for plastic. CA is not ideal for most of these applications since it is designed for porous substrates and some "close fitting" (machine shop type close) plastics. If you can't find Plasti-Bond there are many specially made adhesives FOR plastic. I'm sure this goes against what the "local hobbyshop" guy says about CA, but I design then build scale models of cars etc.all the time as part of my degree in Automotive and Ind. Design using the same methods and materials used by designers for GM, VW, etc. CA is simply not that "super" for plastic. Oh yeah and one drop means "ONE drop". More is not better. If your impatient get some accelerator. If your "local hobbyshop" guy still swears by CA then ask him how many home repairs he's done using "Duct Tape"...lol. Here are a couple links you may find useful: Ever wonder what adhesives NASA uses? Here is their updated adhesives inventory w/ some notes and THE GLUE GURU (remember anything exists on the internet) |
Hey ah5hiit .... is it possible to do that mod and keep the exisiting front tab in place? and not touch the back tab.... or is it necessary to take off the front tab???
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Is that like Citadel Glue, then yeah it's ok , it's just a modelling glue. I would avoid getting on a painted surface though..
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Personally i prefer the slot lowering method just because it does not modify the chassis in any way... therefore allowing you to switch to a different body (such as a convertable), without confilict.
All you have to do to "slot" lower your body, is use a dremel tool, and from the inside of the body, carve a notch about 1/8" of an inch above the stock slot. Notice I said "notch" not SLOT! If you just put a notch then you won't see it from the outside (and that's a good thing). |
I've always had good luck with a glue available at Wal-Mart called Bondini Everything Gel.
They also have a glue called Bondini 2,but I prefer the gel for its extra viscosity.Use sparingly. Contains cyanoacrylate ester. |
nice tutorial
Hey bad company.. this is a really simple mod that many modders dont cover how to do...it has helped many new people as well as some more experianced peeps. Very nice tutorial and props to u!
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