Motul autech z 2007
 

http://www.kyosho.com/common/image.php?id=118728
courtesy of kyosho

this is also one of the racing bodies i'm waiting for, to go with the db9 and coming gt-r.

jpn site says november 28th so we should see it here before the end of the year. maybe too late for x-mas unless you order overseas.

Cool, I wonder what other racing cars we'll be getting.

what we've seen at the jpn hobby show.... i put together a long list of the new bodies shown at the show.

I remember those, I just wonder what's next! :D

i'll have this in stock by tomorrow... will post an update on the blog after it arrives (as usual) :D

i look forward to reading up on it. in particular, how it compares to the db9.

i haven't tested it yet... but it looks SWEEEEET! :D

i received my motul z last night! it looks awsome!

quick impressions;
1. very low to the ground
2. very stable compared to the gt-r r35
3. perception wise, it actually looks like a smaller scale than the gt-r r35. kind of how the mustang mini-z looks huge and the chrysler 300 looks tiny. i'm sure they use the same scaling necessary to fit the available wheelbases just as they do with min-z's thus each body is slightly smaller scale or larger scale than others. these are definately not all precisely 1/43 just as mini-z's are not all precisely 1/27.

i already put the foam block in the rear and i need to order some new wheels to replace them with something more befitting than the same stock wheel. also need to pick up some tires.

leads me to something else, is there a list of the best tire combinations for the various surfaces? such as rcp, kyosho circuit, realtracks, portatracks, etc.

have you tried the SSG-DSP Damper Kit? either Atomic or X-Power... the foam install doesn't compare to the affect the damper has and this Z can have it installed with no body mods. everybody in the shop tried the foam... i've even cut my Mazda 787b body cuz of the difference it makes and that was something i never wanted to do.

best tire combo EVA foam type surfaces will be 40F/10R (Kyosho), 25F/8R (Atomic) or 45F/8R (PN Racing). other surfaces... i'm not sure.

i'm using the foam block until pn releases their damper kit. i prefer pn parts over atomic personally and there are many domestic shops that carry pn vs. atomic due to atomic's difficulty dealing with u.s. shops, which seems to be changing for the better with Sai Tam (whom i've raced mini-z's with before) as the lead u.s. market representative for atomic.

your x-power line of parts are very interesting however the cost to import them exceeds the value or return on investment for me vs. purchasing easy to obtain parts domestically with cheap shipping. it would be different if it were something totally unique or proven to be invaluable. for the time being, i am patient and will wait it out. with the costs for dnano racing being what they are and limited support for it at the moment here, i'm not the type that has to have it first or have the latest and greatest. i need to keep my budget tight as mini-z racing is my primary hobby.

back to the motul z, what if anything have you had to do to yours? is it one of those racers right out of the box like the mazda or does it need some tweaking?

would size 20 rear wheels fit? i prefer to keep wheel gaps tight with the body. i don't think there is enough room for 20 wheel up front.

Hi Arch2b,

I just unpacked my Motul Z 2007 and installed bearings for now. Obviously, i have the pick of all of the upgrades from my shop, but wanted to know what these cars are like box stock on RCP.

The shop is open this Saturday, so can provide feedback to all re: RCP and box stock (except bearings) once the day is done. Hopefully I'll have time to try out some additional parts.

This is the order I was thinking of doing to see how much of a performance gain/driveability gain they'd yield:

1) different gearing? (could be last too)
2) tires
3) aluminum bits (front susp plate set, rear hubs, rims)
4) adj ball diff
5) different springs
6) xspeed motor
7) gyro
8) different gearing?

can't argue with trying to save money.... if ya need it, we're here and you can get light weight orders shipped to the states from here for about 9-20USD if ya change your mind.

i've changed my wheels to 20's which of course increases wheel travel but reduces stability and increases possibility of roll. as long as you don't have lights installed, its a comfortable fit.

outside of that, its great out of the box with your normal option parts (gyro, pn racing rear suspension plate, hard springs, aluminum parts, alum. wheels (if you want extra weight), ball diff w/34T spur gear/stock pinion (crazy acceleration), no need for x-speed on smaller circuits but its fun if you've got the space. go with tires as outlined earlier on RCP and you're good. none in my collection runs quieter and smoother than the Z. :D

NanoTrax do you add anything to the SSG-DSP Damper friction disks? like shock oil, diff. grease. as we do on Mini-Z's, if so what exactly do you use?
if I may ask? :D also is there a choice of springs for the damper, if so what do you use on your Mazda 787b?

Thank You.

D

thanks for the info :)

my priority list based, not based on performance;
1. tires
2. wheels
3. bearings

that is about all i was going to do for the time being. i have some h plates but i want to make sure i know what stock feels like first. i like the feel of added weight with aluminum wheels. just makes it feel more planted. bearings are a no brainer but i'm looking for more cost effective product.

later i will look into;
4. rear diff
5. steering plates
6. hubs
7. waiting for pn disc damper

i drove my z around my mini-96 and it runs great. i did not flip once pushing it hard all the way. all the push of the stock front tires may be a big part of that. i'm hoping the 20 wheels will provide a fraction more ground clearance. that front lip catches everything.

the XP-SSG comes with Medium (Black) and Silver (Soft) springs. i use the medium all around at the moment (Front Springs, Rear Suspension Plate & Damper Spring). i use 10k/wt diff oil and it slows movement as it should without suspending action. if it doesn't look 'wet', there probably isn't enough oil on it ;)