:ö: thanks arch2b,
it's the same leds used as backlights on your mobile phone (nokia..etal) am not sure if it is the same led used on bits, i just bought it from a cellphone repair shop cost me $1.80 for 10pcs...

about the AM rx, the only available micro rx most hobby shop have are all in FM version :( .. but onw of the shop owner told me that they are expectiing for a new batch of stock to arrive within this month, and they will call me as soon as the stocks arrived.

-æ

:ö: hehehe.. it helps me a lot building this little truck, and also,.. i burned my finger.. melt some parts there... almost lost a good servo after i accidentally installed battery backwards (again! :D ), but hey, they taste sooooo good! cheers! :D -æ

Great job Killer

Hi overlander,
sorry, it's not my Tatra. I wish it were mine (until the next tank stop).
Me and a few "mikromodell"-guys wanted to know the feeling to drive 1:1 TruckTrial. And in germany are some guys who offer to learn to do so. So we spend some money and order a "one day TruckTrial lesson"

It was a big fun. One day in a large truck. If you are in a Tatra, there is no hill and no barrier that can stop you:-)

Your Jeep looks also fine. In germany there is no reason for driving an all wheel drive car (exept just for fun). So my car is only an old volkswagen-bus.

best regards

Thorsten

thorsten-
i saw all the pictures of your 1:1 tatra adenture on the website. it must have been very fun.

it actually looks like that hill ALMOST stopped you :)

just curious, but i saw this on ebay and wondered if this would work in stead of rigging a servo pcb. it appears to be much smaller.
GWS ESC OR SPEED CONTROL

That'll work, but there's probably no reverse or brake.

Some notes on design...
 

Once all of your parts are gathered, you may stare at the pile and wonder where to start.

It is a good idea to at least sketch out the general arangement, and have a good idea about the relationship between the gearbox, servo, and frame.

I use 3D to model the general arrangement. Here you cn see I am trying two different servo locations for my next truck (my Tatra won't be here for a couple of weeks). After the first one, I learned quite a bit about what I really want (besides a better paint job) and this one will be bullet proof. It will be 2WD but both axles will articulate and be stabilized by springs.
I also want to try to mount the batteries as low as I can and using the 3D to move things around allows me to see how it can be done.

If you have a 3D CAD program, that's great. If not, try to sketch it out with accurate demensions as best as you can. This will eliminate any time consuming re-working.

I use CAD because I am lame with a pencil:rolleyes:

:ö: Overlander,

man you sure are lucky, 3D CAD is way too big for my comp, but for those who don't have CAD, they can use the o'l MS EXCEL, just reduce the pixels to 8X8, and use the drawing tools, no mess like the old pencil and paper thing,but..... the CAD is still the best ;)

-æ

:ö: i was charging my battery early this morning, while waiting for the battery to charge, i peek on my box and found my pending 1/32 4x4 Monster Truck Project... then i look at my 1/87 rc truck, i think to myself, i lost my interest to finish this one :(, don't blame me a 1/87 truck is soooooo coool!!!.. right now, i'm on my drawing board designing a simple u-joint for my 1/87 to four-wheel drive this addictive little truck, man i am hooked on this things! :D -æ

you ever see the gas tanks on big rigs?? maybe you can mount the batteries somehow like that. one on each side of the frame. i dont know it would lower the center of gravity alot tho. not sure if you could make it look right.

Hello Overlander,
very nice drawing!!!

I never use a pencil or a CAD-program to build my trucks.

My way to construct is a kind of "Just in time deployment" ;-)

OK maybe on you way I can reduce my re-working. I will cogitate about it next time.


But allow me one question about your drawing:

Why do you use two servos??? Do you plan a 4 wheel steering like Harry Jacobsen???

best regards

Thorsten

www.mikromodell.de

Thorsten,

I will only use one servo for steering.

My 3D model is just a test to see different possiblities for the servo location.

3D modeling is not necessary, but drawing out a plan first will save a lot of time and frustration.


You can also use the TLAR method of engineering........

TLAR
That Looks About Right.

This is the method I used for my first UNIMOG.:D I think this is what you mean by "Just in time deployment":p

-Todd

Really I was just showing off..........:p

*laff*
well i guess the 1:87 has to wait. i didnt realise rent was due @ this time. in a few months tho, i will own one...

hmm... seems like everyone noes about this...i remember when i posted a thread about htis on MZR last year...i was really interested in this but its way outa my league...:(

next project
 

i am already think about what to do next, i know i shouldn't as i haven't recieved the first order of parts for my first project. the whole thing is addictive.

anyway i was thinking about doing a minature optimus prime as my other hobby is collecting transfromers, the joys of my youth. i found a wiking rig, with some decals and paint, i think it would look good, or is it just me.

battery question
 

does anyone know where to find the following batteries;
GP 12AAAm, 1/3AAA, 1.2v, nimh, 120mAh, Price: $2.00

i found www.batterystation.com but the shipping for just 4 batteries is the same as the cost of the batteries. i don't want to pay $16 for $8 in batteries.

That's a great idea for an Optimus Prime. I"m currently collecting the Japenese re-releases

Re: next project
 

:ö: arch,
that is a one cool truck!... the rig of the truck has lots of space for your battery and electronics, you can use 4pcs AAA batteries and install everything on the trailer of that truck, something like the "$$$$ keyence 1/87 rc truck $$$$" where all electronic components and batteries are at the trailer of the truck, and only the steering servo and the drive motor are inside the truck, the problem is, you can't use the truck itself without the rig/trailer attached! :( -æ

:ö: update:
right now i'm working on my next 1/87 project truck, it's an all-wheel-drive 8 x 8 cargo truck (used to haul big Military Missiles), i just finished the chassis and the rear axles last night, just like those 8 x 8's on Mikromodell, it has articulating rear axles too!, but i have to wait for a week or two for the alluminum tubes to arrive :(.., allum. tubes are easier to convert to a universal joint than brass tubes (IMO), co'z solder lead don't stick to allum.!, this u-joints will be used to drive the front axles and needed on the propeller shaft for the front and rear axles to articulate better!, man my hands are shaking! i can't wait any longer!!!!! :( :p -æ

:ö: my next project like exactly looks like this... but with cargo at the back for the electronics...

:ö: after a few search on the net, now i know what truck it is!!!! it's an "OshKosh Truck!".. :p -æ

can't wait to read about it, be sure to post nice instructions, please! looks very, very difficult.

what size brass members do you work with? angles or box tubes? what size screws do you reccomend, i have used size 80 on other projects. are there locknuts or lock washers for these tiny screws? i'm afraid that a nut could fall off while romping around. once those fall off, i can never find them again.

Yeah what size screws are you using? I'll be running by my LHS later this week for the Alu/Brass tubing.

:ö: yup! i'll post all the progress with this project ;), about the parts, i am particular to use other type, like plastic, steel rod.. screw size?.. well i guess it depends on the size your project demands, yup! this new found hobby (for me, it's my first time to build a small 1/87 all-wheel-drive truck!) is prone to such incident, we could lost parts we've already finished by accidentally placing it on a small misc. box..

another update!,

as i have said, i really can't wait for the 3mm allum tubes to arrive so, i test my universal joint design on a Tamiya Racing Mini-4WD "steel" axle (hex in shape) armed with hand drill and mini-drill press, i start reshaping it to a U-Joint, and hey it works!!! :cool: (to post pic soon), the sad part,
Tamiya Racing Mini-4WD shaft is so thin that there's no room for error! :(, i mean, with a slight shake on your hand will ruin your work!, and you have to start making another one!, i was able to finish one (1) universal joint for almost 1 and half hour!!! and that's one tiny universal only!, and 3 more to go... :D, this truck is testing my patience! but who can't resist the prowess of 8x8 in an off-road track? i know, i can't, man i am so excited to finish this truck.. i hardly slept last night and keep staring at the 1/87 model OshKosh truck, man i'm obsesed with this!!! is this a sign that i'm infected by a the 1/87 Virus?..

-æ

that blue truck is deffo not 1/87 scale.. it would be as big as the space shuttle with fuel tanks if multiplied by 87

is this a good deal?
 

i found a guy that will sell me the following for $123.00

2 - BP101 Plain Bearing - JR/Hitec (PICO STD)
1 - GWS R4P Receiver With XTAL
1 - GWT-4A Transmitter (F-Negative Shift) with XTAL
1 - GWS MC-2002 Peak Detect field charger

lol I thought you said it was a good deal;)

:ö: JTM,

yes, you are right!, that blue truck is not 1/87 it's 1/15 in scale, what i said was.. it "looks" exactly just like that (now, with correct spelling :D), can't find a 1:1 pictiure of the 8x8 OSHKOSH TRUK, but my project truck is an 8x8 all-wheel-drive "1/87" in scale enough to fit two or three trucks at the palm of your hand and of the same model as the blue truck "not the same in size!".

ARCH!!! GOOD DEAL???? MAN THAT"S A GREAT DEAL!!!! :eek: GRAB IT!!! or you'll be sorry :(

project update:

i just finished all the universals need for the 8x8 "1/87" all-wheel-drive truck.. problem encountered, steering knuckles, have to redesign the steering knuckles to accomodate the universals i made and keep the trucks width, the same as the stock set-up or wider (just a little) than the stock.-æ

killer
 

thanks for the feedback. i'll place the order soon. when i see how it all works out with this guy, i'll post how others can contact him. i don't want to forward anyhing without knowing first. it's one thing if it ends up crap for me, i don't want that to happen to any of you good people.

your work sounds difficult. i can't wait to see pictures, please tell me you're documenting this, of all this work.

silentbob-
are you being sarcastic or you don't think it is? i'm unclear as how to read your reply.
it would cost about $142 at www.balsaproducts.com one of the few places to find all that.

No sarcasm

When I made my original post I thought you had written "A good Deal". In my original reply I asked where you were getting the stuff. I then I went back and noticed you were asking if it "Is it a good deal?” It was my fault for not reading it correctly.

silentbob
 

it's ok. i don't like flaming on the forum, so i wanted to ask what you ment, thats all. god knows i've done the same thing dozens of times.

how is your project coming? what size brass are you going to be picking up? what truck are you using?

i'm collectiong the takara reissues as well. they are cheaper than getting originals that you never know if they were broken or pieced together. already have prime and sideswipe, isn't it, pre-ordered.

I've got 1,2,3,4, and 6 of the Japanese Re-issues. I also have Optimus Prime, Hot Rod, and Ultra Magnus from the US re-issue. Though I like the Japanese re-issues because they don't have to apply the new safety rules to their toys like the US re-issues do. The missiles on the US re-issues are way too long.

1=Jazz
2=Prowl
3=Skids
4=Tracks
6=Megaton

I still have to get 5=smokescreen and 7=sideswipe I’m not sure if I'll get the Japanese re-issue of Optimus Prime since I have the US one.

but back the topic at hand I haven't come up with an exact size yet. All my LHS have terrible hours so today I'll be going out and getting the supplies before my lab. The Chassis I'm using is a 1/72 scale tank model. Thought it would be easier than to do first I don't have to create any complex steering. The electronics will be last thing I buy because I don't have the cash right now.

Hopefully if I have time and my supplies come in the mail i'll get most of the tread finished. I'll post pictures on the 1/87 tank thread that over started.

Does anybody know if the plasti dip-stuff can be colored? I need to make it black.

Again I'm sorry if my comment sounded sarcastic.

silentbob
 

don'tsweat it.
yes, plasti-dip comes in yellow, red, clear, blue, white and black. i bought a can of black last weekend. it cost about $6 at home depot.

Where do you guys buy small hardware? Like screws, nuts, and washers. I can find the Aluminum/Brass tubingat my LHS. Home Depot doesn't really have a good selection of tiny hardware.

¤ universal picture ¤
 

:ö: actually, it's a picture of the universal joint i made out of Tamiya Racing Mini-4WD steel shaft!.. camera is quite an old model and not capable of close-up picture.. but here it is..

:ö: another shoot.

killer
 

very impressive work. do you have a scanner you can use, it would provide better pictures.

i ordered the electronics, bought some brass stock yesterday. now i have to wait till it all arrives. i will probably get the micro screws as i build so i don't waste money on ones i don't need. they are expensive at my lhs. i'll be sure to document it's constuction. i'll probably post pictorial instructions in my member album on mzr. i can't wait to begin!

overlander-
sorry for asking questions you've already answered. this thread has gotten so long, it's been awhile since i've gone back to the begining.