i cant imagine why someone couldnt mail some small am 27mhz stuff here, i doubt custmos would know what it was, i dont even think it would be illegal.. kinda like chipped able boxes, aint illegal to own or have or sell or make, just use.

:ö: it's the same mod i made on my GWS rx so i can use my BIG rc car crystal :p, not enough dough to buy a small crystal for now :(,
smuggle?! hhhmmmm??? (thinking) i guess one is not bad, yes i can thru snail mail if you want one?.

-æ

so the GWS recievers would work with a regular ground AM transmitter? like the kind i use with my team associated rc10 gt?

:ö:JTM,

it's like this, AM transmitter works with AM reciever, FM transmitter works with FM reciever, now if you try to use your AM transmitter with an FM reciever (like the GWS) it won't work, or vice versa, even if you use the same crystal frequenzy, but one thing i descovered, that your regular ground FM pistol type transmitter will work on FM rc airplane reciever (with FM rc car crystal to match the crystal i have on the transmitter), which i have been using for quite some time now..

to simplify everything:
*tx = transmitter
*rx = reciever
*AM= frequenzy
*FM= frequenzy
* :) = good
* :eek: = not advisable!!!

AM tx + AM rx= :)
FM tx + FM rx= :)

FM tx + AM rx = :eek:
AM tx + FM rx = :eek:
this combination will not work even if you use the same crystal frequency either FM or AMcrystal.


*modified version*

FM rc car tx + FM rc airplane rx = :)

¤ make sure that you have the same crystal frequency for this combination to work, if you can't find the right crystal, you can do this modification so you can use your 1/10 rc car crystal, co'z rc car crystal is too big for the airplanes rx crystal slot, here's how; solder a piece of wire on the crystals leg and solderi the other end of the wire on the crystal slot.

-æ

overlander
yes i promise i will finish mine as quickly as i can. it will take a while as i can't afford to get all the parts at one time. i'm starting with the roco's and faller and brass work. i'll move on to the electronics after that.

killer
thanks for the info. i have read your thread before but forgot about it. i don't have a mini z pcb to spare and the are expensive. very cool idea and very impressive that you got it to work.

i am just catching up on the last few posts as i spent nearly 2 hours reassembling the servo pod for my overland. i was putting in my alloy knuckles and s.s. king pins and mistakenly opened the servo pod only to have two small parts fall out and are extremely hard to get back in without taking the whole front end apart. what a mess.

killer,
can you get micro narrow band am recievers to ship to us in the states? i have several crystal sets for my mini z's i could use, with the mod you described.

arch2b,
Yikes:eek: That will be good training for a TTTT:) No need to promise though, you have kids too :p


JTM and Killer,

The root of the Rx vs. Tx issue is thatWE CAN NOT GET 27MHZ GWS RECEIVERS IN THE U.S.!!


Killer has offered to be a smuggler. I'm in.

-Todd

i will need this to use my futuba transmitter? then im in too.. just let me know what i need, i wanna build one of these bad boys

if killer can do this, i'm in also.:D :D

Everyone should check out Thorstens page at http://www.mikromodell.de/index_e.html.

He has done a lot of work and translated the HO Truck section into English.

The truck models he shows are all increidible and are very insperational.

-Todd

i have spent countless hours browsing the german ttt sites including thorsten's:D
i had stumbled into bit's and moded them as much as i could. i got into my mini z for a while and forgot about my bit's. :( then i got my overland and started talking to my new friend overlander:D and remembered thorsten's and other sites for the ttt's. that's how, as overlander said, this thread began.

i got some prices for those who are new to the thead or just curious as to what costs are involved. these are approximates and not exact.
faller car system starter set - $50
roco miinitanks 470 man 4x4 - $8
gwsr-4pt reciever - $22
gws pico servo - $20
batteries - $2-5 each (has anyone priced an assembled 4pack)
gwt-4a transmitter - $30
gws cn12-b2 motor - can't find price. would the motor from the faller car work?
add cost of brass parts - screws, nuts and washers are expensive.
add cost of soldering supplies - rather cheap
add cost of burns, cuts, cursing in frustration, wife complaining your spending to much time on it, you little kids trying to use you as a jungle gym as your trying to assemble a size 80 brass screw-nut and washer and other trials and tribulation.

all you have to do is look at overlander's, killer's and thorsten's work to know it's worth it.:D

:ö: ssshhh.. not too loud! :D, just curious, why is it illegal for you to use such frequenzy on country?.

guys, i'll be needing your suggestion on how i can send your 27MHZ GWS reciever to you, the 27MHZ "crystals" are easier to send thru regular mail.

ei, if you have a friend here or will be visiting here in the Philippines ask him to visit me here at Pan Pacific Hotel Manila, i work there.
send me an e-mail first at killer_d76@digitelone.com


Arch,
yup! you can do it!, this little things are sooo cool!!!.. GO FOR IT!!!!
right now... i'm obsesed with this trucks! :p thanks to Thorsten!

JTM,
yes, you can use your Futaba FMtx on a 1/87 rc with GWS FM rx, i am using a Futaba 3PDF 3channel pistol type transmitter on my 1/87 with a GWS rx, which is the same "tx" i used on my 1/10 TamiyaTB-01 evo VI rally car..

-æ

i have a hitec AM transmitter, so i need a set of crystals and then a micro reciever and micro servos... how much is it for s set of crystals i can use in this Tx (and it would also come with one for the Rx right?) also i need a reciever right? what kind should i get (cheap) and you think you could send me one with the set of crystals, check how much it would be for post to 93705.. that would rock so much.

Golly, what about me...:( :D


It is not leagle because the FCC (Federal Communications Corperation) has designated all RC models to be used on ground or water to be on 27MHZ or 75MHZ, and all RC models to be used in the air to be on 72MHZ.

I think the frequencies were getting so crowded that some boat modelers radios were interfering with airplane modelers radios and causing them to crash into people, causing serious injury. So they separated the frequencies

killer
you've got mail

jtm
i've priced some stuff above.

:ö: JTM,
You have a HiTec AM transmitter that you use on your 1/10 rc kit right?, then you already have a fair of crystals!(one on your transmitter and the other one is in your car rx).. there's no need to buy a new set of crystals (if you need a spare then there's a need), all you need now is a Micro RX, 2pcs. Micro Servo (you'll be needing only two for the truck, one for steering and one will be modified to be used as your speed controller).. rule no.1 for this project truck," the smaller the better!".
-æ

Could you use a bit motor? I have an abundance of thoese laying around.

4-Channel GWS Naro Receiver (JR) GWR4NH72J 1 $21.95

GWS Pico BB Servo (JR) GWSPICBBJ 1 $21.95

Crystal for GWS Pico and Naro Receivers ( For both JR and Futaba 72 MHz Band) GWX1R72XXX Channel: 11 1 $7.45

GWS ICS-50E ESC (JR) GWICS50EJ 1 $14.75

Total: $66.10

Arch where did you find the Tx for so cheap? I found a place that was selling one for 34 but it didn't ask what channel I wanted. And did you make your own speed controller? if so from where did you get the parts for it?

and curse you people for getting me interested

s.bob
i rounded my figures but they are about the same as yours.
i found a lot of the gws stuff @ balsa producrs

if you have found a good place to get these parts post a link.

has anyone tried using a pillow ball joint for the rear axle? similar to the overland but in reverse. it would allow movement without a stationary pivot point to get in the way of the gearing at the axle. just need small springs, similar to what qfm sells as suspension upgrade spings. anyone know where to get i tiny pillow ball screw and socket peice? i know i've seen this done on a german site, so it can be done.

oops sorrry about not including the link :D

http://www.aeromicro.com/Catalog/index.htm

i found a battery pack @ batteriesamerica
ap-nimh
ap-150aaah
150 mah 1/3aaa
4.8v w/ leads____$13

connectors installed (futaba/jr-hitec/airtronics)__$3

the charger, udq-9000 universal charger/conditioner____$50
thats a little steep.

thorsten/overlander/killer- how do you charge your batteries? or do you just buy a lot and replace them when they die.

as you can guess, i'm trying to put together an inventory sheet with parts and prices. i'm trying to get as much as i can from one place to save on shipping. this will help me plan out my project as it will have to be done on the weekends (i'm planning for the month of febuary).

another question-
how do you modify the second servo electronics to make the speed controller?

i apporiximate this project being anywhere from 110 to 200 bucks more if you have to buy a transmitter.

hopefuly killer can come through and we won't have to buy a transmitter, just an AM reiceiver and crystals.

Arch2b et all
 

I just published a How To on building a speed control from a servo.

Go here to check it out!
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread....&threadid=7752

-Todd

Thanks over

once again, great directions! thanks.

another question-
the reciever, batteries, servo and such have choices as to what kind of connectors you would like such as futabab, airtronics or hitec. which do i get and i assume all have to be the same for whichever i choose.

Connectors, Batteries, and On/Off Switch
 

Receiver Connectors
The connectors on the receiver really dont matter that much because you will have to either cut them off or un-solder them off anyway. To make things fit, every connection has to be soldered directly to the receiver. Understand that there are H (horizontal U.S. type), T (European), and the normal U.S. models of GWS 4P receivers. They all have to be cut off. There may be some cases with large ON ROAD trucks that you have room to leave the connectors on, but, AS A RULE, most OFF ROAD size trucks will need have them removed. THE BLUE ARROW in the picture below points to the connectors actually CUT off.

Servo Connector
It is the same thing for the servos, you must cut off the plugs anyway.

Just remember:

Futaba, JR, and Sanwa servos have negitive (black wire) on the outside, positive (red wire) in the middle, and signal (other color depending on brand) on the other side. This has become the standard even for newly manufactured Hitec and Airtronics servos -

But....
Old model servos from Hitec and Airtronics may still be on the shelves of your LHS and they have the positive and negative reversed, that is; the negative is in the middle.
BE AWARE OF THIS WHEN YOU ARE SOLDERING CONECTIONS ON YOUR RECEIVER! I smoked one and Killer did too.

So, when you buy your receiver....
These are the things to do (assuming you are buying a GWS 4P):

1. Know the brand, frequency, channel, and band(AM or FM) on the Transmitter you will be using.

2. Purchase the proper frquency and band(AM/FM) receiver.

3. Purchase the proper micro crystal that matches the brand, channel, and band(AM/FM) on your Transmitter.

4. Be prepared to burn your fingers with a soldering iron.

Battery Connections
Yes arch2b, I do recharge my batteries. I don't just buy a bunch and change them:p .

Just like any other serious RC sport, you will have to solder your own battery packs. Do not buy a pre-made battery pack because you wont know how they will all fit until you design the truck. For example: A Unimog has two batteries in the drivers cab and two in the cargo bed. Remember the 2 major rules of design: First the drive train, then the steering. The batteries have to fit around those systems, not the other way around.

Batteries will need some sort of plugs, because you cant solder them directly to the receiver (duh):rolleyes:. I use a set of micro 2 pin plugs like Deans connectors, only smaller. You might have room for Deans connectors if you have kept everything else small.

I find most of the parts and materials and tools at the model train store. The RED ARROW in the picture below points to the micro plugs whith a white dot on each one so I dont plug them in backwords. Buy two sets so you can use the other to make a connector to your battery charger.

On-Off Switch
The simplest way to have an on/off switch is just to build the model with the battery connectors easy to reach. Just unplug them to turn it off!

I found a use for some of the parts that come in the Faller Car System cars. THE GREEN ARROW points to a tiny magnetic reed switch. I mounted it on top, and I mounted a teenie tiny magnet under the canvas cover for the cargo bed. To turn on my truck, I just put the cover on and the magnet closes the reed switch. Perfect for small trucks like the UNIMOG where space is very limited. The little switch and magnet came from a Faller Car.

-Todd

Charging Batteries
 

I asked Thorsten how to charg the small 120mAh cells a few weeks ago.

This was his reply:

To charge the batterys I use a normal charger. You can charge up to 200 mA. But it's better to charge 12 mA in 10 hours or 25 mA in 5 hours. If you have an automaic-charger, this should be working too. In the first time its better to watch at the battery while charging. If they don't became hot and the charger say automaticly "I am finished" in the correct time, so it will working.
Some easy automatic charger will don't work with the small batterys like this one. Thats why you have to look and try out at the first time.

All of my chargers are made for peaking 3000 and 2400 racing packs for my fast electric race boats (an entirely different obsession of mine). One of the older ones, made by Ace (before they were bought by a Chineese company) is adjustable from 0 to 500mAh. It is not automatic, so I have to set my alarm clock.

It is an Ace model H/D500. Find one on eBay if you can.

-Todd

My next truck project........

tiny should begin a 1:87 forum here with your instructions permanently displayed. i can't thank you enough for the information.

i can't wait to hear all about your next project. it looks like one of the dakar rally tatra? what brand, where did you find it? i was trying to find a un man but the only one i found was huge, an 8x8. i guess i'll try to paint one. i just wanted something different, the army green man is very common.
your going to attempt double turning axles and double drive axles? you will be the thorsten of the us when you get that done!

so what battery charger do you use? i found one, listed in an earlier post of mine for battery packs but it's rather expensive.

Hi Overlander,
the Tatra 813 is a fine toy ;-). 8wheel drive 4 wheel steering. I have this kit in my hobieroom too. But I am unable to build this. Maybee later I try again to rebuild.

Thats why I drive souch a car in August 2002 scaled 1:1.


100% fun, here is a picture of me driving the truck.

Thorsten

www.mikromodell.de

Wow Thorsten!

Whos Tatra? Yours?

For comparison, here is a picture the Jeep I built. This picture was taken on the Rubicon Trail just West of Lake Tahoe California.

It's not exactly a Tatra, but it will go anywhere..... Someday I will build a 1/87 Jeep Cherokee like mine.

-Todd

overlander
nice jeep, looks like beautiful country.

i ordered my faller starter set and two 470 man 4x4's. unfortunately it will be almost 2 weeks before i get them, discount trains online has a slow ordering process. the project begins!

killer- any luck?

Can you use Bit motors? Or do you have to use the GWS motor?

I was thinking about making a tank with two motors, one controlling each tread. What would be involved with this? I was thinking about using two RXs but then I would need a Tx for each RX unless the make TXs that can have controls with two channels at once. Would a channel RX and six channels Tx solve this problem?

I know this would be too hard for my first 1/87 so I was thinking doing it first on a larger scale and working my way down to 1/87th. I just need to get controlling two motors independently figured out.

Using two motors on the treads would also neegate the need for a steering servo. Just like in a real tank the speed of the tread would control turning.

SilentBob,
I can tell you all about how to make a tank. You might even be able to use a toy radio like the bitch arg ones.

Lets have that discussion here:
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread....&threadid=7816

Thorsten is making a 1/87 scale crane with tracks like a tank, maybe he can post some pics here:
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread....threadid=7816.

Thorsten?

Lets keep this forum for 1/87 scale trucks.

SilentBob,

Yes you can use bitch arg motors. You can even use the pinion and spur gears that come with it. They will have to be modified of course.

-Todd

here's my 1/87 rc truck
 

:ö: sorry about the resolution, it's an old camera :( , but here it is..

:ö: side view, with the driver.. on top of Jhonny Walker!!! :D.

:ö: uuugghhh.. here's a good example of a dunk dirver!! :p

killer-
very nice work. you have to tell me how and what leds you used for the lights. very cool. is it anything like a led set for a bit?

any luck with the am rx?

Killer,
That is my brand of scotch:D !