Yes you MUST let the glue dry properly! also make sure the tabs on your creditcard mount are flush with the chassis! Somtimes when cutting the card it can warp slightly and wont seat correctly.. I am currenty doing this mod and it is going great! Thanks for the tips Ahh5hit!

BTW: I went to my local hobby shop and got some airplane glue that is of higher quality than regular super glue yet dries just as fast! Its called "Super Jet" super glue! You need to get Medium vicosity cyanoacrylate glue.. Pure CA or Cyanoacrylate glue is what you need but dont think its high quality because it says cyanaocrylate on it.. I bought a tube of "Loctite Quick Tite" glue and it even said "Cyanoacrylate Ester" on the back but it did NOT bond with plastic nearly as well and it was the most expensive glue in Walmart at the time.. So please do make sure your using the right glue! I know it sounds stupid but it really does make a difference!

Bumping this for all of the new folks asking how...

***This is for INFO only and should NOT be taken as an attack toward any comments previously made in this thread"

Keep in mind "Super Glue" was developed initially for use in the medical industry as an alternative to stitches. They released it as a houshold adhesive in order to insure patent and other product protection rights were legally theirs while waiting for the FDA to approve it for medical use (10 years later!) ! I highly recomend Plasti-Bond (ACE hardware) for plastic.
CA is not ideal for most of these applications since it is designed for porous substrates and some "close fitting" (machine shop type close) plastics. If you can't find Plasti-Bond there are many specially made adhesives FOR plastic. I'm sure this goes against what the "local hobbyshop" guy says about CA, but I design then build scale models of cars etc.all the time as part of my degree in Automotive and Ind. Design using the same methods and materials used by designers for GM, VW, etc. CA is simply not that "super" for plastic. Oh yeah and one drop means "ONE drop". More is not better. If your impatient get some accelerator. If your "local hobbyshop" guy still swears by CA then ask him how many home repairs he's done using "Duct Tape"...lol.

Here are a couple links you may find useful:
Ever wonder what adhesives NASA uses? Here is their updated adhesives inventory w/ some notes and THE GLUE GURU (remember anything exists on the internet)

Hey ah5hiit .... is it possible to do that mod and keep the exisiting front tab in place? and not touch the back tab.... or is it necessary to take off the front tab???

Is that like Citadel Glue, then yeah it's ok , it's just a modelling glue. I would avoid getting on a painted surface though..

Personally i prefer the slot lowering method just because it does not modify the chassis in any way... therefore allowing you to switch to a different body (such as a convertable), without confilict.

All you have to do to "slot" lower your body, is use a dremel tool, and from the inside of the body, carve a notch about 1/8" of an inch above the stock slot. Notice I said "notch" not SLOT! If you just put a notch then you won't see it from the outside (and that's a good thing).

I've always had good luck with a glue available at Wal-Mart called Bondini Everything Gel.
They also have a glue called Bondini 2,but I prefer the gel for its extra viscosity.Use sparingly.
Contains cyanoacrylate ester.

nice tutorial
 

Hey bad company.. this is a really simple mod that many modders dont cover how to do...it has helped many new people as well as some more experianced peeps. Very nice tutorial and props to u!