View Full Version : Bit TTTT
Daisycutter
04-23-2003, 10:45 AM
I plan to build a TTTT truck using the RX and parts from a bit car.
Anything RC here is insanely expensive.A bit clone costs less than half of what a standard servo would cost. I can get the faller car here but I'd prefer to use the bit bits for a truck.I used to have a HO scale 2-axel truck so I know the layout pretty OK.....some pointers in the right direction would be really helpful,like why so far nobody has done it, or why there isn't much about converting a bit into a truck.
Any feedback would be appreciated:)
Cheers
zclonedude
04-23-2003, 11:53 AM
I've seen semi's,you know tractor trailer(without trailer). They have 2 axels on the rear but only one is powered. Might try e-bay.
hope that helps a little,good luck;)
Daisycutter
04-23-2003, 01:53 PM
I want to build something that looks like an off-roader and later on build more complex models like maybe a MAN 5t truck or sumthin like that.On roaders are somewhat 'mild' .
wangcc61
04-24-2003, 07:17 PM
how about building a truck with 4-wheel-indepent suspensions?
I guess the size will be bigger that the regular TTTT...:p
way ahead of you I'm building that right now about 1/20 scale not too sure I got a design but i tend not to draw plans. I'll take pics of the building and then post them as I move on
wangcc61
04-25-2003, 06:01 AM
cool!! :D
Can't wait to see your pics.
What kind of gears are you going to use?
I guess the worm gear is a little bit slow for the off-road project.
Tamiya has a educational kit, I think maybe I can use the gears.
here is the linke
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHA24&P=7
Ok the few details I have to tell you since I hate plans is I’m going to model it after the Suppressor in carmageddon 3 so it’s going to be a 6 by 6. It will be 4 wheel steer. I want it to be a rock crawler, since my house has lots of rocks in the land scape plus if i needed to drive it some place else I would just go to the mountains 10 min away. For the gears I’m going to use the same thing as TTT but trying to find worm gears in that size I have found out is impossible so I’m going to use wood bolts I’ll get a pic to show you what I mean.
this is what i'm trying to build
arch2b
04-25-2003, 02:42 PM
using bit electronics has been discussed briefly...i for one have encouraged it as well.
the reason most don't is that they are trying to create a fully proportionally controlled tttt to have the kind of fun you can see in the tttt trials pictures and video's. just can't do that with a bit electronics.
look forward to seeing your project develope!
Lord_Nick_D
04-25-2003, 06:30 PM
I think It would be better to use the 4x4 off road trucks for the pcb
They have tank steering so I dont know if you would want to do normal steering
they come duel celled stock so hem might be able to handle more voltage and are also alot smaller and simpler
killer
04-26-2003, 01:23 AM
Originally posted by T_T_52
What about a bit char-TTTT system. I know that the asembely is easyer than some but in wirering I suck.
:ö: if you could post some pics of your bit electroncis (blow up or just show all the electronic parts) then maybe i could think of ways to modify it for TTTT ;)
T_T_52
04-28-2003, 11:21 AM
Thanks killer I'll show you some lectronics
T_T_52
04-28-2003, 11:24 AM
Here is a modifyd one.
killer
04-28-2003, 07:51 PM
:ö: i have some questions for you, i noticed on your drawing that there are 4 wires that came from the pcb to the front part of the car, and as i understand bit charg, they are steered by an electromagnet that spins in the middle of a manget, correct me if i am wrong.
killer
04-28-2003, 08:01 PM
:ö: remove the wires from the steering magnet an try attaching a 7mm (pager motor) or smaller motor on it, so when you press the left or right button on your bit tx, the motor should spin, and once you released it the motor will stop spinning.
killer
04-28-2003, 08:21 PM
if it works then let's move to the next step...
killer
04-28-2003, 08:32 PM
:ö: this servo set-up will funtion like the magnet steering setup, but the difference is, this has more torque to turn truck tires in an off-road track, but you can keep it in an angle you like, just like a functional servo does, unlike the stock steering set-up.. when you press the left button, your front tires will move to left.... but at it's maximum angle, though this servo-upgrade will not center your tire like the coil does, due to of lack potentiometer, which i understand used on electronics with proprotional steering only.
-æ
Daisycutter
04-29-2003, 03:50 AM
Killer, the bit steering isn't like that of a normal servo, instead it drives two separate coils. It sends power to one coil for one direction, and then to the other for opposite steering. The coils do not work in tandem. I faced this problem when trying to convert a free-flight plane to RC using bit bits.
Daisycutter
04-29-2003, 03:57 AM
Killer, the bit steering isn't like that of a normal servo, instead it drives two separate coils. It sends power to one coil for one direction, and then to the other for opposite steering. The coils do not work in tandem. I faced this problem when trying to convert a free-flight plane to RC using bit bits.
killer
04-29-2003, 05:10 AM
Originally posted by Daisycutter
Killer, the bit steering isn't like that of a normal servo
¤ this is what we are trying to do... to make it work like a normal servo... almost¤
,instead it drives two separate coils. It sends power to one coil for one direction, and then to the other for opposite steering.
¤ okey, now i understand, try these set-up.... solder the positive power wire of the left steering coil and the negative power wire of the right steering coil on positive wire of a pager motor, then solder the negative power wire of the left steering coil and the postive power wire of the right steering coil to the negative wire of the pager motor.... the motor should run clockwise and counterclockwise depending on which button on the TX you are pressing... the steering coils inside the bits is like the coils inside an electric motor.
The coils do not work in tandem. I faced this problem when trying to convert a free-flight plane to RC using bit bits.
¤ that's why we can connect the postive power wire of the right steering coil to the negative power wire of the left steering coil.. and solder them to the positive wire of a pager motor and so on, cause short circuit is impossible because the current that powers the coils does not flow at the same time... now here's the reason why we join positive wire of the left to negative wire of the right; if you press the right button on the tx, current will only flow from the right coil power wire, from the bit electronic board to the right coils, but because we replace it pager motor this will power the motor to spin in one direction, now if you press the left button.. once you lift your finger from the right button before pressing the left one, the flow of current from the left coil power wire is automatically cut-off, now once you've pressed the right button on your tx, the right coil power wire, now will send a flow of current to the motor, the motor, now should spin in the opposite direction.
-æ
killer
04-29-2003, 10:51 AM
like this..
T_T_52
04-29-2003, 10:56 AM
Thanks killer. I know an easyer, cheaper way of making this work. Use on of those daul motor ZZ clones with the big antena on the comtroller. I used one of those to make my science project.
Daisycutter
04-30-2003, 11:18 AM
Killer, your setup for the steering is a good idea, but attach diodes to the wires going back to the L and R terminals. I'm assuming that the L and R terminals allow power through them to energize the coils.In the setup you've drawn, when power is allowed through L or R, the power from VBB will not go through the motor, instead it will take a 'shortcut' and go straight to the L or R terminals via the wires connecting L and R to the motor.Look at your diagram carefully.Diodes should do the trick(I hope).
Also, if you connect any type of electric motors to the steering outputs, the transistors will burnout due to such high drain from the motors.You'll have to replace the two steering transisters
(little black boxes on the RX underside) with MOSFETS.
Lord_Nick_D
04-30-2003, 05:19 PM
YOU COULD AVOID ALL OF THESE PROBLEMS IF YOU LISTENED TO ME AND USED THE 4X4 MONSTER TRUCK THEY HAVE A SMALLER YET BETTER PCB IT GIVES OUT EAQUAL POWER
IT HAS TANK OR SCRUB STEERING SO IT NORMALLY WOULD DRIVE LIKE A TANK AND THUS IT MUST HAVE THE SAME AMOUT OF POWER COMMING OUT OF BOTH CHANNELS SO YOU COULD DO YOUR IDEA THEN
THEY ALSO COME DUEL CELLED STOCK AND I BET THEY COULD TAKE MORE VOLTAGE BECAUSE THEY ARE ALOT SIMPLER.
sorry for caps but I got angry
they are also chaper then bits too and have longer range I think too overall they are better made (in my oppinion they come with stock NIMH)
what I would do is get two trucks and stick them together making a 8 wheeled tank which could clime and go over anything
killer
05-01-2003, 04:30 AM
Originally posted by Daisycutter
Killer, your setup for the steering is a good idea, but attach diodes to the wires going back to the L and R terminals. I'm assuming that the L and R terminals allow power through them to energize the coils.In the setup you've drawn, when power is allowed through L or R, the power from VBB will not go through the motor, instead it will take a 'shortcut' and go straight to the L or R terminals via the wires connecting L and R to the motor.Look at your diagram carefully.Diodes should do the trick(I hope).
Also, if you connect any type of electric motors to the steering outputs, the transistors will burnout due to such high drain from the motors.You'll have to replace the two steering transisters
(little black boxes on the RX underside) with MOSFETS.
:ö:
thanks for the input daisycutter, yes i think adding diode to the L and R terminals would avoid short circuit (if there is any) or probable damage to the electronic board, about the transistor to Mosfet, i think, the 7mm pager motor or smaller motor is not that demanding on power that i think, will not harm the transistor, but replacing it with MOSFETis the best choice ;).
Lord_Nick_D is right, using the 4x4 monster truck pcb is a lot easier, but T_T_52 was asking on how he (and there are other people who might be interested on doing this mod) can use he's bit electronics on a 1/87 truck, though making it steer like a tank, is not a bad idea ( Thorsten's Unimog 6x6 used that steering system too ;) ), but wouldn't you love to see such tiny truck to steer like normal truck do?, considering the details Herpa or Roco model trucks have :cool: but it's your choice...
;)
Z-man
05-01-2003, 07:55 AM
hey you guys keep talking about these 4x4 bit type trucks but i havent ever seen any. can you point me in the right direction to a web page or store u have seen them in. also do any of you know how much they cost?
thanks
Lord_Nick_D
05-01-2003, 03:57 PM
what I ment by using the 4x4 pcb was to make it steer like a bit you would use the controls from one side to control the speed and motion and the other side you could wire to your steering motor because unlike the electromagnet steering this was ment to power a motor
thats all I ment I just thought it would be a lot more strieght forward and cleaner
Z man
the trucks are sold a walmart and toys r us from what I have heard I bought mine at walmart (in canada But I know US has them too) they are $20canadian or $14.99 US they are well worth the cheap price they are made by a company called KIDTRIFFIC the web site should be easy to find
this is a thread about them
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9594
T_T_52
05-04-2003, 07:01 PM
I've got mine coming together. And its a semi with a 1/87 scale 50ft trailer to hold my lectronics.
Stupid computer won't download my T_T_52 Bit Char-TTTT
Lord_Nick_D
05-04-2003, 08:40 PM
I want to build one of these now but have no Idea where to get a motor for the steering
T_T_52
05-05-2003, 10:48 AM
Bit Char TTTT
IT's Here
T_T_52
05-05-2003, 10:49 AM
Here is a close up
Lord_Nick_D
05-05-2003, 04:00 PM
I cant open the link what is it in
post some pics or a video
T_T_52
05-05-2003, 06:44 PM
The picture that won't work is a phot of the hole thing.
killer
05-06-2003, 06:14 AM
:ö:
T_T_52,
the photo did work! ;) , but i think you'd better post some more pictures of it of different angles.
;)
T_T_52
05-06-2003, 03:47 PM
Thank Killer I will
arch2b
05-18-2003, 12:29 PM
so, how is the work comming? this has been an interesting thread to follow;)
T_T_52
05-19-2003, 11:09 AM
Slieght Change in plans. I've now put the electronics in the truck cab and the trailer is a charger for the bit cell on the side which will be painted to look like a gas tank.
Daisycutter
05-26-2003, 03:46 PM
I'm herre! Hello all, I've been busy, bitplane, painting the house , getting ready for college, and convering my Hummer to RC.
The Hummer is a metal display model, 2.75 inches long , non-magnetic body! The wheels are plastic, slightly bigger than a bit's rear tire. I hope to give it T-bar rear suspention and articulating front steering assembly, most likely the whole model will get a lift , to fit the electronics and all. Far from being 1/87th scale, it will be more of an offroad bit.:)
The truck will have::blift: b1spd :btc: bc12m :bs: b26 bg12
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