My Truck!

[killer]

my 6x6 truck

[killer]

next pic

[killer]

next

[killer]

...

[killer]

close-up of u-joint

[killer]

old pics

[killer]

:p

[killer]

:)

[killer]

:) ..

[killer]

....

[cvictim]

trucks look great. Do you think you could help me with how to make an articulating front axle?

Thanx

[killer]

Originally posted by cvictim
trucks look great. Do you think you could help me with how to make an articulating front axle?

Thanx

:ö: thanks! ;), sure thing man!, so what type of front axle do you have in mind? is it the one with the driving and steerable front wheel axle that i used on my 6 x 6? or the free wheeling one that is used on a 4 x 2 trucks?...

if this is your first time to build a 1/87 scale rc truck i suggest you start building a 4 x 2 front axle first or the one with a free wheeling type, this is much simple to make than the complicate front driving/steering axle for all-wheel-drive trucks...

this are the tools you need to build one;

¤ hand drill (electric)
¤ drill bits of different sizes (usually the small ones)
¤ cutting discs
¤soldering iron set (flux, soldering leads, soldering wick, stand etal)
¤ small screw sets (size depends on your need)
¤ screwdriver
¤ ruler (any measuring stick will do)
¤ third hand or helping hand (this is a stand with movable arms that has alligator clips on it) ei!,don't worry if you don't have one, this will just make your task a bit easier ;)

and the most important tool you need here is....

¤ patience! :p! lots of it!

¤ ooops i almost forgot, a "safety gogles" don't worry about how you look when you are wearing this during the process of building your truck, it is much better than removing small parts of the truck the flew right thru your eyes! :D


... now to make a front articulating axle, is much easier than it sounds, so here goes..

first you need a rectangular brass or plastic bar... whatever your choice of material you are going to use,

drill a hole on each side of the bar first (choose the size of the drill bit that matches the size of the screw you are going to use.

like this [o o]

this is where your screw for the steerin knuckles goes


now to make it articulating..

flip it on the other side where does to holes would be on top of the bar
then drill a hole in the middle

like this [ o ]

this is where the screw that would hold your front axle to the chassis goes..

then remove the drill bit and use a cutting disc to shave your brass/ plastic bar on the each end , you should end up with a bar that looks like an stretched lying on the side H where on each end , you should end up with U that has a hole where you can slid your screw in, to hold your steering knuckles..

now to make a steering knuckles, you'll be needing a two smaller rectangular bar where its height and width would fit in between the U on each end of your axle...

now with your drill, drill a hole on one of your brass or plastic bar like this

[o o o ]

and

drill a hole on the other bar like this

[o o]


notice the first one have three holes and the other one is shorter and have two holes on it? make sure that your first and second holes on each bar are of the same position or have the same distance between holes and the third hole on one of the bars, well it depend on your needs because this is where you will connect your steering link to the servo horn

the first hole, this is your steering knuckles pivot point, i mean this is where you will slid in the screw from the axle you made first

but before installing it you'll be needing to drill a hole on those two bars on the other side.. this is where you will put in your screw or a small rod to hold your front tire..

whew!.. once you have connected everything... you're done!

i hope i have explained it well, drawings and pictures should have made it easier for me to explain, check out some of the sites like mikromodell.de .. mikro-truck-trial.de and some of the websites that is posted here that you can use as your guide for this procedure... try reading the whole how to make a 1/87 rc truck thread there are lots of tips and trick there that may help you during the process. and if you got more question feel free to ask and we'll be happy to answer you back ;)...

-æ

[fastboy]

this is a simple pivoting front axle made from brass bar.

[killer]

:) 2mm u- joint

[killer]

4mm u-joint for my 1/32 all-wheel-drive project truck

[killer]

new front axle for my next truck

[killer]

size comparison

[killer]

front drive/steering axle

[killer]

another shot

[killer]

ESC with upgrade ;)

[killer]

:D close up

[killer]

side view of the truck

[arch2b]

killer-
stunning work:D really amazed.

could you post the pictures of you sc upgrade here (http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9532) as well?

[killer]

Originally posted by arch2b
killer-
stunning work:D really amazed.

could you post the pictures of you sc upgrade here (http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9532) as well?

:ö: thanks Arch!, yup i did posted pictures of the ESC, there you'll see i'm just using 2 resistors, i replaced the old SMD(?) resistors (those tiny black resistors as small as this o ) because i am quite skeptic on the way they perform so i replace it with a small (regular) size resistor.

notice that i'm just using 2 resitors instead of 3?.. those two are 2.2 k Ohm and 5.4k Ohm resistor... i used one 5.4k ohm resistor to replace what is supposed to be 2 x 2.2k ohm resistor, like instructed on the website i posted... hope this helps ;)

-æ

[cvictim]

killer thanx a bunch for the help with the front steering arm.

Yeah this is my first 1/87 truck.

i race 1/10 nitro and have played with the bit charg but this sounds like so much fun.

so you think its posible to use a rx that is for a 1/10 car in these trucks?

thanx again.

[killer]

Originally posted by cvictim
killer thanx a bunch for the help with the front steering arm.

Yeah this is my first 1/87 truck.

i race 1/10 nitro and have played with the bit charg but this sounds like so much fun.

so you think its posible to use a rx that is for a 1/10 car in these trucks?

thanx again.

:ö: no problem ;) , if this is your first 1/87 rc truck i suggest you start with a 4 x 2 1/87 roco MAN 5ton truck, about the rx?, nope!, you cannot use the standard size 1/10 rx on a 1/87 scale truck, notice the yellow thing on my truck electronics? that is a 1/10 rc car standard size FM crystal, though you can use a 1/10 rx but you have to look for the smallest one about the same size as the rc plane rx, or you may use a trailer for the truck so you hide your 1/10 rx there.. fun?, yeah! and addictive too! :p -æ

[Overlander]

Great job Killer!!

I see you have a better camera now too!!:D

-Todd

[cvictim]

killer

exactly what brand and type of servos and rx should i purchase for these trucks?

again thanx for all the help.

[arch2b]

CVICTIM-
this has all been coverd. please search or read through some of the entire posts, as this section of the forum is rather new, there aren't that many and shouldn't be difficult;)

[killer]

my new 1/87 4x4 chassis.

[killer]

another shot.

[killer]

articulation! :D

[killer]

modified cellphone charger... red when charging.. and turns green when full charge! ;)

[killer]

internal..

[killer]

Ni-Cad batteries should be discharge to the minimum level before charging :)...

[arch2b]

as usual, absolutely remarkable work:D i'm going to get the parts for the cps this week and do the mod...i hope to have somethingto post for you by next weekend

[killer]

thanks Arch! hope to see pics of your project too. :)

[Overlander]

Killer,

OUTSTANDING!!!

The creativity just flows off of you man!!:eek:

[killer]

Originally posted by Overlander
Killer,

OUTSTANDING!!!

The creativity just flows off of you man!!:eek:

:ö: shucks... thanks overlander.. ei!, any update on your projects? -æ

[arch2b]

i think you may have done this already, but could you start a thread in the other section on how to make that very cool cell phone charger! that thing is cool! we all have old cell phone chargers too...atleast i have about 4 of them;)

[killer]

:)

[killer]

:ö:
The unit i'm using here is a Philips Savvy Switching Adoptor, that produces 4.5-9 volts with 550mAh of power, the reason i used this unit is because it has a built-in led indicator, red when charging.. green if full, now the green rectangular circuit board (on the pictures "internal" ) that came from a Li-ion cellphone battery, which i understand that this will allow a standard cellphone charger (usually used to charge ni-cad or Ni-mH batteries) to charge a Li-ion battery! which we all know that requires a special charger for us to be able to charge it, now i attached that circuit board to the 6.+ (i have to double check the exact voltage output) output of the charger, my first intention here was to make a cheap Li-ion battery peak charger, it was a success :cool: i was able to peak charge my Li-ion batteries to be used on my new 1/32 project truck.., then i tried to test charge my TTTT Ni-Cad batteries and it works, gives me the same run time using my 1/10 scale peak charger, then i test charge a 100mah Ni-Mh batteries and as expected.. full charge! though it takes abit longer for the led to turn green (batt full) because the Ni-mH batts have higher milliamps compared to the Ni-Cad one that only have 50mah, which requires shorter time to full charge, remember the "battery charge calculator" thread?.. this will help you a lot to understand how long your battery to charge depending how may amps your battery is compared to the output of your charger.

;)

arch,

i'll try to shoot some more pics of the charger i made,.. then i 'll test a Nokia charger too using the same procedure, if the outcome is the same, i'll let you all know about the result.
-æ

[killer]

charger back view..

[killer]

back view of the small circuit board..

[killer]

almost complete.. my 1/32 TXT-1 inspired 4WD Monster Truck

[killer]

another shot!

[killer]

all i need now is a perfect size battery ;)

[Overlander]

THAT IS AWESOME!!!!!!!

Does it go fast?

[killer]

Originally posted by Overlander
THAT IS AWESOME!!!!!!!

Does it go fast?

:ö:

thanks Overlander, the truck speed is the same as the 1/32 Tamiya 4WD Wild Monster Truck... and with the dual 130 size modified motor set-up, it produces plenty of torque that could crawl up just about anywhere where there is traction, and with a TXT-1 like suspension, the truck is quite suitable for rockcrawling ;)... but if i want it to go fast, simply replace the worm gear with an 8 tooth pinion gear, the truck will be 5 to 8 times faster than with the worm gear set-up :) i've posted some pictures here too...

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3672&perpage=15&pagenumber=10


-æ

[killer]

:ö: i finally got some vids of my 1/32 4wd Monster Truck!.. hope you like it!..
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8384

-æ

[killer]

...

[killer]

:ö: all-wheel-drive..

[killer]

only all-wheel-drive truck can conquer this course. :D

[squeegee]

Killer my man..............I wish I had half your talent! I think I'm gunna cry.:p

squeegee

[arch2b]

my sentiments as well:D very nice!

[killer]

:ö:
Squeegee,
:p i'm pretty sure you can do it too man.. so hows your project truck going? i hope you could post picture here too ;).

Archs!, thanks man :p any update on your project?.. looks like everybody's busy doing something.. not much of an activity going on here :(

[squeegee]

I won't release any details about my truck until I can get a digital camera.......so not until summer. I will say that buildng a ttt is possible for any ages, (with a little help from Peter over at ttt-parts ;) ) considering I'm only 14.

squeegee

[arch2b]

sorry, no updates on my project...been busy with my overland! it's high on my list though! also waiting for your phone charger tutorial...

[Landy Man]

Hey Killer
Nice work, I'm most impressed with your front axle. Do you have ball races in those hubs I can't quite tell from the pictures?
Those UJs are amaising, so far I have only managed to make one from brass but you make them in steel!

[killer]

... hope you like it ;)....

[killer]

under side view....... does the tranny looks familiar to you?

[killer]

i used a 35mm diameter wheels instead of the ol' monster truck tires ;)

[killer]

front view......

[killer]

next

[killer]

Originally posted by Landy Man
Hey Killer
Nice work, I'm most impressed with your front axle. Do you have ball races in those hubs I can't quite tell from the pictures?
Those UJs are amaising, so far I have only managed to make one from brass but you make them in steel!

:ö: thanks Landy Man! ;), yes.. those hubs have ballraces in it!, it's the same size as the ballrace on a high-end 130 size motor cans, i found out that without the ballrace, a small motor such as the 7mm pager motor will have to work twice as hard just to turn the axles with the tires to carry the weight of the truck (complete with batteries and electronics installed) so gearing it low enough for more torque will help a lot ;)..... about those steel u-joint? i decided to make it from steel co'z i am not quite sure if the u-joints from brass would last :D, i'd rather spend hours making a steel one than fixing and replacing a broken brass joints on the truck everytime the front tire got stuck and try to pull itself out, though i haven't tried a brass joints yet, co'z i am quite happy with the steel joint performance, if you have watched the 1/87 truck video we made,in my own opinion, if i am using a brass joint i won't dare myself to run my truck on that coarse, this may damage brass joint quite easily, i've also proven the strength of the steel u-joint on my 1/32 Monster truck, (i hope you have checked that video too) though i'm using a bit thicker steel than the one used on my 1/87, but you could imagine the torture a small joint takes everytime it tries to turn a monster tire to climb a big obstacle like the thick yellow pages used on that video too :D which if i used a brass joint of the same size, in my opinion, i might have to fix it or replace a broken brass joint on the second or third run, but as of now all of my steel u-joints are doing a great job! and hope they'll last forever! :D

;)

[killer]

i found this chassis on the web... looks really cool :cool:

[killer]

all i need now are some red and black paint..

[killer]

:D

[killer]

next pic

[killer]

top view

[killer]

1/32 Tamiya Toyota Land Cruiser rally version... minus the decals and paint :D

[killer]

ArTiCuLaTiOn!!!!

[killer]

that's me!!... ooops that's my hand :p

[Overlander]

I LOVE IT!!!!

[squeegee]

Absolutely positively 100% amazing! My favorite of all your wonderful work!!!!!

[killer]

:ö: thanks guys! ;)... Overlander!.. welcome back!, looks like you've been busy with the autocad business thing ;)...

squeegee, that's my favorite too!.. i plan to make this truck waterproof , so submerging it in mud/water will not harm the truck and the electronics ;) just like it's 1/10(?) version the Tamiya Bruiser, so 1/32 cross country rallying will be possible. :), any update on your project 1/87 truck?.

-æ

[squeegee]

Nope no updates.......I've got most of what I need except the electronics, but I want to save up for some DigiQ tanks so it is on hold. I will post pictures of what I have later this summer.

[arch2b]

i'm waiting for the new controllable turret digi q tanks too! i'm makig very slow progress on my projects...real busy at work and home...

[Tech_Lord]

omg they look hard to make!

[killer]

updated pic

[killer]

side view

[killer]

size

[killer]

modifed tires for Rock Crawling..

[killer]

bead lock.

[squeegee]

Man killer that crawler looks KILLER!!!:p I love it!! Now all you need to do is go and find lots of rocks.....build your own crawling course.....and make lots of videos!:cool:



Oh, and by the way, those tires look really slick!! Did you make bead lock system yourself?

[killer]

:ö: thanks squeegee ;), wish i could do that right now, but it's rainy season here today have to stay inside :(.
-æ

[killer]

:ö: Unimog + Rockcrawler = :cool:

[killer]

last pic.. :cool:

[squeegee]

I miss spoke myself..........how did you make the bead lock system for your tires. :cool:

[killer]

Originally posted by squeegee
I miss spoke myself..........how did you make the bead lock system for your tires. :cool:

:ö: those are tamiya rims too... i just cut the rims (this will shroten the tires width) then drill some holes in it :).. the beadlock could be functional, but the truck is not that heavy to make the tires slip from the rim. ;)

-æ

[Ovgron]

Killer, where do you buy your electronics? and about how much do each of your projects run for?

[arch2b]

you can browse here (http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8583&highlight=resources) for online shops, etc.

[Ovgron]

thanks a bunch arch2b!

[killer]

:ö: ;) thanks Arh2b!.

Ovgron, all parts of my r/c are bought at the nearest Local Hobby Shops here in my area (Manila, Philippines), but you can buy then online too, which is also the same electronics that i used here ;)

-æ

[Ovgron]

hey killer, would you be willing to make me 2 steerable powered axles (like on a 4x4) if so, how much would want?

[killer]

Originally posted by Ovgron
hey killer, would you be willing to make me 2 steerable powered axles (like on a 4x4) if so, how much would want?

:ö:

Yes i can, but it'll take some time though, and as of now my hands are full with other projects to finish, and still have an 8hour day job to maintain, why front axle only?..

-æ

:

[Ovgron]

i was thinkin of using tttt technology and make a mini monster truck. I could make it 4x4x4 for tighter turning and more power. I dont have the stuff to make a powered steering axle tough, thats why i ask.

[arch2b]

Originally posted by killer
...my hands are full with other projects to finish, and still have an 8hour day job to maintain...

it's a hard balancing act...thow in a toddler, wife, 2cats and a dog and you have my schedule. you still manage to do some amazing work killer, i'm envious.

[Ovgron]

me too. Killer, youve dont some amazing work with that much of a time constraint? Thats crazy. That Bruiser is absolutly amazing.

[killer]

:ö:

Aww shucks :D, but i'm thankfull to god that i have a very understanding, loving wife and she's very beautiful too ;).. and my son seat besides me, help, and give some idea everytime i do a project, he's also amazed how i turned pieces of gears,wires and tires into a radio control cars/truck :cool:, he knows that all my project will end up into him.. he does the torture testing which he loves the most.. he'll drive the trucks in an obstacle course i wouldn't dare drive into :p, he knows that if he brakes it, i'll fix it :D.

-æ

[Ovgron]

good understanding. If i crash my car, im screwed.

[killer]

hope you like it!.. ;)

[killer]

from a different angle..

[squeegee]

I love the videos:cool: ...........you are the most talented person I have ever known!!!! No joke!

Well...some what known;)

I would be very interested in seeing a picture of all your creations.....to my knowledge you have made 2 TTTs, the 1/32 version of a Tamiya Bruiser, and a boat for your son. Whatever happend to your first "Matchbox" TTT?:confused:

[killer]

:ö: Squeegee,

i am flattered man!.. about the Matchbox TTTT, it is still complete, i just removed the mini-z pcb for other projects such as the bruiser..

pictures of my creations?.. i'll try and post them soon..
i have made;

2x 2wheel drive 1/32 Monster Truck,
1x 1/32 4WD version of the TXT-1
1x 1/32 bruiser
1x 1/87 2wheel drive TTTT
1x 1/87 2wheel drive Macthbox TTTT
1x 1/87 6x6 TTTT
1x 1/87 4x4 TTTT chassis
1x 1/700 boat (not converted to r/c as requested by my son ;) )
and right now i'm working on a new project.. a 1/35 4x4 MAN Truck.

-æ

[arch2b]

yeah, pictures of your collection...

[squeegee]

WOW!!!
That 1/35 scale MAN wouldn't happen to be made by Revell, would it? If it is I have one just like it!!! It is a UN version.......I plan on making it R/C when I become all old like you guys.;) :p

I am reeaallly looking forward to see how it turns out!! Good luck!

[killer]

Originally posted by squeegee
WOW!!!
That 1/35 scale MAN wouldn't happen to be made by Revell, would it? If it is I have one just like it!!! It is a UN version.......I plan on making it R/C when I become all old like you guys.;) :p

I am reeaallly looking forward to see how it turns out!! Good luck!

:ö:
thanks squeegee, yes that's it, it's the1/35 4x4 MAN 5 ton Truck by Revell that i am working on right now... (Arch ;)).. right now, i'm 80% finished with the front axle... hey i'll try to post some pics here too, and hopefully some vids as well.

"OLD!!!!" ssshhh.. don't say badwords you can get banned here!!!! j/k :p ... nope i'm not that old, i'm just 26 years old remember? :D

-æ

[squeegee]

That will be sweet to see the same model I have be turned into another "killer" creation!!!!!

How much did you pay for yours? I ended up paying 48 bucks for mine!!!!! YUP THAT'S RIGHT! It was only 24 dollars plus shipping on ebay, but mine was shipped from Europe. SHIPPING!:o

[killer]

:ö:guess what?.. they are cheaper here in the Philippines, if i convert the price of this into dollars, i'll come up with $23.oo only, no shipping, just a trip to the LHS which is just a minute away from my work :cool: ... hey i'll post some pics of the truck... well just the front axle for now ;)

-æ

[killer]

it's not yet finished though.. ;)

[killer]

another angle..

[killer]

top view..

[killer]

:ö: this axle houses a bevel and pinion gear combo giving out a gear ratio of 2.5:1, this is quite high if you notice or compared with a worm gear combo that produces low 8:1 ratio...,

¤why did i use such combo?.. this truck is design to run faster than the previous rockcrawlers i made, and should have enough ground clearance for trials,

¤ how can this high ratio axles can be used for trials?.. a super low ratio tranny will be needed to get this truck moving

¤why not use a powerful/bigger motor?.. due the limited space inside the engine compartment (i plan not to remove the drivers area) plus the gearsets will occupy just enough space for the RX and a Micro ESC.

[arch2b]

looking good!

[killer]

:ö: thanks Arch ;)... so far so good :) -æ

[squeegee]

WOW!

I take back what I said about the bruiser......just imagining my Revell model become R/C is enough to make this truck my absolute favorite of your creations so far. Or soon to be;)

[squeegee]

Hold up..........where did you get those rubber tires?


My kit does not have those!!!!!!!

[killer]

:ö:

yes, they are included in the kit, the rubber is made of semi-soft, sticky compound, which i find perfect for this project ;).

Yesterday i bought a 1/35 URAL 4320 6x6 Truck by Revell as to be my next project, it's tires has a good off-road thread pattern, but the tires are made out of a very hard rubber :(..

-æ

[arch2b]

killer,
the memebers in the overland section of mzr have discovered an awsome set of tires! they are hard to find but they are good.
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album57/IMG_0010.sized.jpg

these are 1:24 satco tsl super swampers. they are very soft/sticky hollow rubber tires and can be found on a few aoshima "lift up" series models.

i suspect they are too large for your 1:32 bruiser but you never know...just though you would like the picture as well;)

[killer]

:ö: WoW that picture is awsome!, is that your OL?..

about the Aoshima model kit, i found one of the LHS here and made a reservation on that kit too.. but i forgot all about it when i began building the 1/35 MAN truck, when i come back at the shop, it was not there anymore :(, i can't blame them, maybe they thought that i'm not interested on the truck anymore..and sell it to other interested buyer,.. that soft/sticky and hollow feature of that tire is a perfect match for my 4x4 bruiser, i think the tire size is just right... in an off-road condition the bigger the tires, the better :cool:.

ei!, I just finished the front axle of the 1/35 MAN 5T 4x4 last night, and i'll be working on the rear axle tonight which is a lot easier to build than the front one... i'll try to post some pics later ;).

-æ

[arch2b]

Originally posted by killer
:ö: WoW that picture is awsome!, is that your OL?...

YEP, that's one of my babies (i have 2 overlands);) . as you can see...i've been putting alot of time into custom work on my overlands.

yeah, the aoshima kits are kinda rare....the story is... american satco made the tire sets without liscening while aoshima included these tire sets in 3 of there kits and labled them "lift up" kits or under urban something. i'm guessing satco got called on not having the liscening and is aknowledged that they will no longer be made. the easiest to find is the toyota hilix double cab lift up. the 4 runner version is nice but harder to find.
i was in an arts and crafts store picking up some more brass stock and did a double take when i saw 3 of the kits sitting on a discontinued items shelf! i bought all 3, sold 2 on mzr. i have the body still, if you know anyone interested in a nice 1:24 truck body

picture of box (http://www.minizworld.com/albums/album91/afx.sized.jpg)

[killer]

;)

[killer]

high clearance steering knuckles.. just like the modern off-road vehicle.

[killer]

propeller shaft.

[killer]

size...

[killer]

1/35 6x6 URAL TRUCK by Revell.

[arch2b]

that is a mean truck! check ou the meat on those wheels...

as usual, your work is amazing killer!

[squeegee]

To bad those wheels on the 6x6 will not work well........they look awesome!


Hey arch............when are we going to see another project from you? Killer seems to be the only one producing work at this time.

[arch2b]

Originally posted by squeegee
To bad those wheels on the 6x6 will not work well........they look awesome!


Hey arch............when are we going to see another project from you? Killer seems to be the only one producing work at this time.

why not?

ahh, where to start.....my wife has been in-between jobs for the last 3 months due to injury...no money=no tttt parts.
i've been really busy with custom overland work.
i get out my man 5t once in awhile...i really need to find the right cell phone charger...i still have to wiggle my motor in.
i'm building funding for a 1:35 man 5t rc truck;)
i only get about 5-10 hours a week to do everything.

i intend to get back into the swing of things when my wife is back to work and were not eating cheerios and popcorn for breakfast/dinner;) (it's not that bad..but it's hard for a family of 3 to live off of one salary and have money for hobbies)

[squeegee]

Posted by killer:
Yesterday i bought a 1/35 URAL 4320 6x6 Truck by Revell as to be my next project, it's tires has a good off-road thread pattern, but the tires are made out of a very hard rubber ..

Wow everyone seems to be getting the 1/35 MAN now. I have the UN version, but when I get "old" and build it.....it won't be UN.

I can kind of understand how it is..........my mom is on medical leave and isn't getting paid. I still don't have a good job, but I am working on it. Money for my project truck is a little short......but It will come around.

[frizzen]

...So everybody with this thing has gotten too mature to build 1/87 and moved up to the larger, less challenging 1/35 scale? Come on, your eyes can't have given out this quickly!

Just messing with you. The larger stuff is awesome too, but it doesn't have that amazing "how could a human possibly manage to do that?" quality. The stuff looks like it will be wicked once completed though!
-
I would think that the off-road tires with harder composition would be better since they'd wear slower and not pick up as many rocks & stuff. But of course, for on-road driving, they would probably really suck

[killer]

:ö: thanks frizzen :), the reason why i moved to a larger scale is because, i have proven to myself that i could build what i thought to be impossible for me to build... a 1/87 all-wheel-drive rc truck ;) but as you can see on the video we've made, it was possible!. then i thought of moving to something smaller like the 6x6 Gama Goat or the ever famous Hummer.. but this scale is very demanding, on time , patience and not to mention the price tag that goes with those small electronic parts too, after working with a 1/87 scale and moving on a larger scale, like you said "less challenging" 1/35, i noticed that it was easier for me to work on that scale now than before... if you have seen my previous work, the modified aTamiya 1/32 4WD Wild Mini-Monster Truck i made to accept RC electronics (posted on mini-zracer.com under mini-z science) it was just 2WD and you could see how terrible my work was :p... but it was working!, but my love for 1/87 is still here in my heart, notice that i'm always here almost everyday?... i'll be working on some more 1/87 projects too i still have a lot of ideas running on my mind ;).

about the truck tire.. you are right the slow wear quality of a hard tire, but they lack traction or grip on soft surface, even on hard surface, like if you want your truck to climb on a hard obstacle, they tend to slide rather than cling on it :(, but i'm looking for ways on how to soften the tires a bit.

-æ

[arch2b]

killer,
i read somewhere that boiling rubber tires softens them up??? i hope you figure something out because those tires are very cool!

we are not leaving 1:87...just expanding our range of skills:D . you'll find that after building a tttt, larger scales become soo much easier. i do lots of stuff for my 1:28 overlands.

[killer]

:ö: thanks Arch ;), yes i really want to use those tires on that truck, i have tried boiling several 1/32 Tamiya Hard Rubber Tires before, they soften a bit, but they seem to get weak and crack after a few days.. right now i'm trying some chemical solution that may help soften those rubber tires, i'm also thinking of removing some rubber inside to make it hollow, but this wil be a long process :(..

Arch is right!.. we're not leaving! and you said the right word "Expanding the Range of our Skills" :p

-æ

[squeegee]

I don't have the money, and never will ;) , to buy another minitank for the offroad tires.........Would boiling the "stock" military tread tires soften them up a little? Would it ruin them?

[fastboy]

hmm, i think boiling them will make them harder in the long run and prone to cracking...i do know that diesel fuel softens rubber tho...how much it would soften those tyres i dont know.


dave

[arch2b]

Originally posted by squeegee
I don't have the money, and never will ;) , to buy another minitank for the offroad tires.........Would boiling the "stock" military tread tires soften them up a little? Would it ruin them?

email me, i have some extra roco tires from the elephant truck i bought just for tires (had 12-16 of them)

[killer]

hope you like it ;)

[killer]

another angle..

[killer]

underside view

[squeegee]

That looks wonderful killer......simply amazing. And for me, I'm having trouble simply putting the 1/35 scale MAN5t kit together....I've never even put together a skill level 2......not to mention a skill level of 5!

I can hardly wait to see the finished product.

It didn't seem to take you that long to come up with that sweet chassis.......how many hours did you put into it?

[Ovgron]

hey killer, would you that 1/32 Bruiser/Hilux thing without electronics? just the chassis and body? even if you were to sell, hope your not the person that beleives your stuff is the worlds greatest stuff (no offense, im getting to the point) and would charge like, $25 for a homemade body or wheels or something.

[killer]

:ö:

Thanks squeegee :D, if you plan to make your 1/35 MAN 5T into r/c, you don't need to build the whole truck.. all you need from the kit are, the body, the rim and tires, the plastic chassis, enginge and axles of the truck have no use ;), and you could also use the gas tank, exhaust and other misc. items found on the kit..

as for how many hours i put into this things?.... at least 3 - 4 hours everyday, if given a chance, i could stay inside my room for the whole week just to build and play with it!!! :p, that is one of the reason why i'm thinking of quiting my day-job to give fulltime attention on building mini-r/c :confused:.

-æ

[killer]

Originally posted by Ovgron
hey killer, would you that 1/32 Bruiser/Hilux thing without electronics? just the chassis and body? even if you were to sell, hope your not the person that beleives your stuff is the worlds greatest stuff (no offense, im getting to the point) and would charge like, $25 for a homemade body or wheels or something.

:ö:

Ovgron, yes i can build you a 1/32 Bruiser Chassis only, without the electronics... as for the $25.oo?... add another 25 and that would be just the cost of 'shipping only' from here in the Philippines to your country :(, as for the person who believes that his work is best creation in the world?... let's just say that i considered them as my babies and i'm sort of attached to them (i'm a very sentimental person :D), and consider the time, effort (no special machine used here), patience and the braincells used to come up with such thing :)... you'll say it's worth it.

thanks,
-æ

[squeegee]

hey killer, would you that 1/32 Bruiser/Hilux thing without electronics? just the chassis and body? even if you were to sell, hope your not the person that beleives your stuff is the worlds greatest stuff (no offense, im getting to the point) and would charge like, $25 for a homemade body or wheels or something.

I think killer's "stuff" is the worlds greatest creations!!!!! :cool: NO Really I do! Killer does the best and most work out of anyone into RC that I have seen in my life.

Tamiya mini four wheel drive kit: $15
All the electronics you need to run it: $250
Killer's completely custom built 4 wheel drive chassis: Priceless:D

[killer]

Originally posted by squeegee
I think killer's "stuff" is the worlds greatest creations!!!!! :cool: NO Really I do! Killer does the best and most work out of anyone into RC that I have seen in my life.

Tamiya mini four wheel drive kit: $15
All the electronics you need to run it: $250
Killer's completely custom built 4 wheel drive chassis: Priceless:D

:ö: thanks squeegee, that is very flattering ;) -æ

[killer]

update

[killer]

underside pic with brass skid plate

[killer]

top view with electronics on.

[killer]

beside my 1/87 6x6 truck

[killer]

;)

[killer]

lights on!... oh and those tires are modified Tamiya Monster Tires!

[killer]

side view

[killer]

three link suspension!

[killer]

parked beside the 1/87 6x6

[killer]

1/35 URAL 4320 6x6

[killer]

chassis

[killer]

front axle

[killer]

130 motor and servo already installed on the chassis

[killer]

all of this would be inside the trucks engine compartment.

[killer]

how my front axle works

[killer]

1/35 4x4 UNIMOG in action

[killer]

MAN 4x4

[killer]

last vid

[arch2b]

killer,
i am absolutely speechless:eek: all of it is is awsome!

[Overlander]

Wow!!

OH...Wow!!!!

Arch, did you get the package?

[arch2b]

overlander,
yes....i can't thank you enough;) i've been meaning to email you with some questions....but deadlines recently have sapped my time and memory:rolleyes:

[arch2b]

killer,
haven't heard from you in awhile? hope all is well;)

[killer]

:ö: thanks for the concern Arch ;), we're quite busy here at the hotel right now, plus the typhoon have been bombarding us for a few days :(..

did you get my e-mail? :)

thanks

-æ

[arch2b]

yep, got the latest email;) hope you make it through the weather ok

[killer]

:ö: check this out ;)

[arch2b]

very nice articulation! nice rollover;) that moves allto faster then i expected

[killer]

skid plate galore! :D

[killer]

1/35 UNIMOG's skid plates

[killer]

so far so good!

[killer]

on the extreme left, it's 4pcs battery used on my 1/87 rc truck, and on it's right are 6pcs. battery used on my 1/35 scale.. and a AAA battery and AA battery :)

[killer]

Truck infested EVO VI?

[killer]

...

[killer]

my 1/35 4x4 UNIMOG making a good use of the skid plates..

[killer]

on three wheels!

[killer]

dirt...

[arch2b]

off topic, did you get my email about the tamiya wheel dimensions? if not, i'm working on something and need the dimensions for the greared wheel like radius, width and profile (ribs or anything that might be on the rim to keep the tire on...

you are a master at your work:D

[killer]

Originally posted by arch2b
off topic, did you get my email about the tamiya wheel dimensions? if not, i'm working on something and need the dimensions for the greared wheel like radius, width and profile (ribs or anything that might be on the rim to keep the tire on...

you are a master at your work:D

:ö: yes Arch, i just read the mail early this morning... i was too busy working on a new project!... i'll try to get the details tonight ;).. can i ask what's that new project? ;)

-æ

[arch2b]

looking to improve this:
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album93/IMG_0205.sized.jpg

[killer]

Originally posted by arch2b
off topic, i'm working on something and need the dimensions for the greared wheel like radius, width and profile (ribs or anything that might be on the rim to keep the tire on...

:D


:ö:

Arch, i hope this help ;)

-æ

[arch2b]

perfect;) thanks!

[SuPeRdUdE]

killer, im not worthy to view you breathtaking creations;)

[killer]

:ö: thanks superdude! ;) -æ

[sawhit4]

hey killer i am interested in making a small rc. not near as small as some of yours but somewhere like 1/24 or something like that. i was wondering if you made those very small u joints? if you did how did you? thanks alot man you are awesome

[sawhit4]

it would also help alot if someone could give me some help finding parts like gears and radio systems. web sites would be great thanks alot

[Timbo337]

Sawhit, I think a lot of people re using parkflyer airplane radios. The receivers are super tiny in those systems, and you can't get anywhere near that size using normal 1/10 truck/car radios. I'm pretty sure the only way to use the parkflyer systems is to get the whole shabang, with Tx, Rx, and PICO servos. The servos I have been looking at are, GWS Pico, TowerHobbies TS-5, Hobbico HS-55 (the HS-81 is too big), and the Futaba version of the TowerHobbies servo (they have the same exact case). I may be missing a few, but the HS-55 is only $18 at towerhobbies.com :D As for gears, just tear apart some old mechanized toys like I did. Also, some people have found small gears at model railroad stores, I think gears from the N-Scale engines. I am going to look into that as soon as my railroad store gets in my Man 5T!!:D Welcome to the board!

[killer]

:ö: i can't help it but show you guys my latest creation.... it's my 1/35 4x4 rock buggy... 95% finished :D.. sorry for the poor pic, cheapy cam got low batt :(

[killer]

side view

[killer]

length

[killer]

front view

[killer]

working headlights! those are ultra bright white cellphone led!

[sawhit4]

:eek: HOLY CRAP :eek: AHHHHHHHHHH its so good it burns my eyes!!!! im at a lost for words............................ok i think im better now. where do you get things like tires, escs, radios, ect?

[killer]

trying to climb a mouse! :D... the electronics used here is a mini-z board modified to accept micro servo and Li-ion battery :)

[Timbo337]

Sweeeeeeeeet! I see you were inspired by Thorsten's 1/87 buggy! lol Awesome work

[killer]

Originally posted by Timbo337
Sweeeeeeeeet! I see you were inspired by Thorsten's 1/87 buggy! lol Awesome work


:ö: well, sort of ;).. but actually i was inspired by Jon Bundrant's "tiny" rockbuggy... it's like a 4x4 sandrail with VW rear engine type vehicle which is very much different from the usual rockcrawler :cool:, check this site to see some 1:1 rock crawlers pic http://www.allprooffroad.com/events/2003prorock1/index.htm
-æ

[Timbo337]

Cool, Ive heard alot about that buggy, because some guys over at rcmt (I think, or maybe it was rcjimsplace) made a buggy that was modeled after Tiny. I need to get crackin on the motor mount of my tttt if I want to be as good as you! lol:D

PS Whats so different about the Tiny compared to other crawlers? To me it just looks like another buggy...

[killer]

Originally posted by Timbo337
Cool, Ive heard alot about that buggy, because some guys over at rcmt (I think, or maybe it was rcjimsplace) made a buggy that was modeled after Tiny. I need to get crackin on the motor mount of my tttt if I want to be as good as you! lol:D

PS Whats so different about the Tiny compared to other crawlers? To me it just looks like another buggy...

:ö: *off topic* well "tiny" uses a VW engine (normally they use monster V6 or V8 engine) mounted on the rear part of the vehicle, which a regular rock crawler engine is mounted on the front!, and one noticeable difference is it's size! one reason why they call it "tiny" because it is smaller than an average rock crawling truck, more of like a single seater sandrail rather than a rock crawler ;)

[Mazultav]

Killer, may i start by saying your work if phenominal! I was wondering where you get the gears and whatnot to set up drive trains and trannys, Also i saw that one of your trucks used a premade tranny, what type is it and where can I get one

:)

[killer]

:ö: thanks Mazultav, i think the truck you were talking about is my 1/35 version of the Tamiya Bruiser?!, i used a tamiya mini-4wd tranny on it, with a 5:1 gear ratio and can be change ratio by changing gearsets using tamiya mini-4wd hop-ups, but the tamiya's gear ratio is still too high for my esc's ( i smoked my mini-z board and one futaba mc330 esc :( ). but most of the gearsets i use came from old toys, pullback, mini-4wd, wind-up, camera and other toys that usually my son don't want anymore :D, you can use, mix and match those gears as long as they mesh properly ;), one good source of gearset is a servo, normally used for steering on a 1/10 scale rc, it has a motor, gearsets and servo electronic board that can be modified to work as esc!... it's a 3 in 1 package for a small price! but there are also smaller servo too to choose from, though most of the hobbyshops sells servo gearsets for less than $2 :)

hope this helps

-æ

[Mazultav]

killer im really interested in making a custom 1/32 like you did, do you think i could get some close up shots of how the front axel is articulated, and how the transmission is set up. thanks man

[killer]

:ö: i'll see if i could get a clear pictures of the parts you're asking ;).. but as for the suspension, the rock buggy uses the same chassis set-up as my 1/32 bruiser, 1/35 MAN 5t and the 1/35 UNIMOG... i just shortened it as short as i can make it to make it to 1/35 scale of a rock crawler... i think i have an underside view of my UNIMOG posted here ;)

as for the tranny, i use the same set-up as my 1/87 truck, it's just that i use a bigger gear, and lower gear ratio, so i could use a pinion and bevel gear on the axles instead of worm gear :),

-æ

[DanielS]

Hi

Killer your work is allways great to look at it - yet the less gifted like me - found a good starting point with using mini-z axles.


infos about this:

http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=146724#post146724

and

http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16152

BR
Daniel

[killer]

:ö:hi daniels, you're project looks good ;), but i think the combined gear ratio of mini-z and mini-x gear sets is still too high for off-roading, this may burn your esc (stock mini-z and mini-xi's esc ) if you use it for rockcrawling... if you could still lower the gear ratio... you're truck will be unstoppable:cool:

[DanielS]

Hi Killer

Thanks for the feedback from the "GURU" - yet I hope it will be enough - I plan to use a full size LRP ESC that goes down to 12 winds - so I don't think it will burn and it its only around 14 gramms ;)

Nevertheless it should be much slower than the dual motor direct drive solutions of the other guys.

My aproach is limited due to my limited machining capabilities!

BR
daniel

[killer]

:ö: Hi DanielS, using fullsize ESC with12 or lower than 12 turn motor limit is the best option for you to use in this project ;), it can easily take up up to 10turn modified 130type motor!, usually this type of esc have "thermal shutdown" that automatically turns off your esc if you use a motor that draws too much amp,or if you use too high gear ratio, this prevent major damage on your electronics.

-æ

[Stoovey]

Killer, any chance you might be able to build me a rock crawler like that 1:35? Email me: dupont2002@hotmail.com

[killer]

stoovey, i am glad you liked my work ;)... i'll send you an e-mail :)

updated pics of my rock crawler..

[killer]

130 motor was overkill for such a small vehicle and way too heavy... an N20 type motor works perfect!

[killer]

coilover suspension

[killer]

articulation!

[killer]

wheelbase

[killer]

ready to rock!

[killer]

video1

[killer]

video 2: highcentered!

[killer]

...... where's my spotter?!

[ikinari]

:eek: :eek: :eek:
Incredible work, killer!! Amazing, it's really tiny, and it's 4WD!!!!!!!

:eek:

Your work is really nice, and very tasteful, I think.
I love it, and can't wait to see more movies!!!!!!:D :D :D
I wish I had your hands!!!!!:o

[killer]

thanks Ikinari! ;)... i'm excited posting more pics and videos too!, but i'll post more pics/videos as soo i finished my table top rock trail project.

-æ

[T mAxX PaYn3]

Hey killer, Could you please post some close up pics of the drivetrain, what size servo are you using? What tires are those? I really like your truck it's based from my instant favorite crawler, I saw it in person for the first time on my bday last year, he said that nelson and nelson racing(Jon's frame builders) are working on a chassis that is going to make that one obsolete! it already dominates like no other.
Thanks

[killer]

:ö: WoW!!! you've seen it in person!?.., i don't have a camer right now, but here's a drawing of how i arrange the gears... those tires came from a 1/35 MAN Revell truck, and the servo used here is a modified to mini-z board PC-09 9 grams servo.

they changing Tiny's chassis design?.. they must be changing it to an independent suspension design like Evan Walker's Rock Spider!

[nitrousmaniac]

Originally posted by killer
modified cellphone charger... red when charging.. and turns green when full charge! ;)

how did u make that conversion with the red light thing?

[killer]

:ö: that is a built-in led light on the charger ;) -æ

[T mAxX PaYn3]

Thanks for the diagram Killer, Any chance you have any build-up pictures??? It would really help, I mostly just need to see the steering knuckles and how you made the u joints for all of it. Also, what kind of stock are you using for them, it looks like allen wrenches almost,lol, and lastly: how do you drill so SMALL!?
Thanks,
Brad

[killer]

i use the u-joint design on the mikromodell site but instead of using a brass tubes i used the Tamiya Monster truck steel hex shaft, as for the tiny holes i used a 0.8mm drill bit installed in a mini-drill press.

[killer]

here's the u-joint diagram from the mikromodell site.

[killer]

and here's a close-up pic of the front axle..

[killer]

here is the front axle on top of my hand..

[killer]

here's a picture of the u-joint.

[T mAxX PaYn3]

Thanks a lot Killer! That will help tremendously, since I'm not equipped for that kind of small scalle stuff I'll just have to make 'em out of some super beefy round stock I have lying around, Thanks again Killer!:D

[killer]

i recieved your e-mail, i sent you the answer but your account was full.. so i guess i'll post it here ;)

the thick rod will not slip out because the thin rod prevent it, remember that the thin rod pass thru the thick rod, now if your talking about the slack that's the reason why we have to put the square thing in the middle.

[me and me lude]

ah of course!
thanks :D

[scatmanjohn01]

killer, i really want to build a rock crawler like yours, but i dont know much about this stuff.

are you running it on 2 seperate motors?

if not how is the drive train set up?

Can you show me some better explanations of ythe front axle/rear axle?

thanks for everything

[killer]

Originally posted by scatmanjohn01
killer, i really want to build a rock crawler like yours, but i dont know much about this stuff.

are you running it on 2 seperate motors?

ans: on my 1/35 txt-1 i used a two 130 type motor setup just like it's 1/10 counterpart..,but on my 1/35 rock buggy i used 1pc N20 type motor

if not how is the drive train set up?
ans: as for the 1/35 rock buggy gear train click here (http://www.tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9860&perpage=15&pagenumber=15)

i've also attached a drawing of how i placed all the gears on my 1/35 trucks..

Can you show me some better explanations of ythe front axle/rear axle?

ans:
i've posted some pics of the front axle on this thread, pleas do browse this thread a bit..

it works like the real front and rear axle of any 4x4 truck, but the difference is that all of my axles lack differentials or if we compare it on a 1:1 version it's called "spool ".


thanks for everything

i hope this helps ;)

[killer]

this is my twin motor set-up..

[sawhit4]

hey killer have you ever thought of using an xmod diff. on one of your trucks. im not sure if a diff makes that much of a difference with a truck this small but its just a thought.

[scatmanjohn01]

Originally posted by killer
i hope this helps ;)

can you show me a pic of what that looks like built?

also, what mini drill press do you usE?

[scatmanjohn01]

Also, on the u joints, how do you solder the stainless steel hex bar?

[killer]

scatmanjhon,
i'll see if i can take a clear picture of the geartrain.. as for the drill press, it's a small drill press found it on one of the electronic shop near my place it is used to drill elctronic boards but i modified it so it can drill thru tamiya steel hex shaft, it has a chinese writing on it.. must be the name of the drill?.. but i'll see if i can still find the box, and as for the tamiya hex shaft.. as far as i know they are not stainless, but i sand thm first, apply a liberal amount of flux and i use a 60W soldering iron.

sawhit4,
diffs really makes a big difference.. even in small scale rc, in terms of steerig radius.. but i prefer locked diff/spool because i do a lot of micro offroading.

-æ

[scatmanjohn01]

ok one more question killer, i dont say how in the heck your steering servo is setup. Can ya explain?

also how did you "modify" the mini drill press?

[killer]

i removed some parts of the the drill and beefed up some parts to prevent it from swaying side to side, because the drill bit should stay on the center of the point where i want to drill, additional bearings and higher amp (13+amp) viariable voltage power supply.. by changing voltage of the power supply i can achieve variable speed from a single speed drill ;)...

as for the steering the servo, if you will closely on the font, you'll see that the servo is lying down the chassis.

[killer]

side view...

[ZipZapin]

Would you sell that? or make one for me? How much is that worth? You make the best killer!

[Racer9]

I would buy one if it is not terribly expensive.

[viperdout]

Originally posted by Racer9
I would buy one if it is not terribly expensive.

[filelicker]

Originally posted by viperdout


How much do you think a totally handcrafted work of art is worth?
I would say about $400 more than you are willing to pay.
All of the TTTT vehicles here are handcrafted and very costly.