ARCH2B's Man 451 Project

[arch2b]

Roco Minitanks 470 - MAN 451/461 flatbed- this is what i will make my TTTT with. DISCOUNTTRAINSONLINE.COM also has ROCO MINITANKS.
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t01.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

After careful disassembly, i painted the chassis parts with Testor Flat White Spray Paint
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t10.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

After a days drying, i reassembled the parts. you can see the green frame. The best way is to stand back and spray the paint on from a distance so it goes on very lightly. it took me two times to get an even coat.
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t12.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

i tested the Roco wheels on the Faller front axel. the on/off switch is in the foreground, the GWS Pico Servo is on the left. The beginings of my brass frame are on the right http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t11.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

i trimmed the mounting arms off the pico servo so it will fit in the bed snuggly. using a dremel with an odd short tip drill bit, i carefully cut a hole almost perfectly for the servo to come through the bed. definatley wear glasses while using the dremel
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t14.sized.jpg

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t15.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

to make a back cover, i trimmed a sheet of copper to fit in the back opening and bent an angle to hold itself and eventually be connected to the chassis and frame. i then cut a hole for the faller on/off switch and took it outside to paint. i filed down the platic switch and painted it at the same time. fits like a glove! i haven't decided how to secure it to the copper sheet. i might use two micro brass screws
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t16.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t18.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

now inside the bed, of course it fits well. almost too well as it's difficult to get in and out without scraping the paint. the end result! i know the faller on/off switch is a big one, but i think i did a good job of blending it in.
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t19.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t20.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

i finished making the frame peices. the bent frame rail is to provide the steering servo clearance to fit and operate. i used 3/32x3/16 brass rectangel tube which is just slightly deeped than the frame on the roco minitank. i used an exacto metal saw and mitre box to cut the peices, pliers to bend the one rail and a dremel for grinding and polishing. i used the wrong soldering iron (low watt iron for electronics) and it took a long time to get it right. use a high watt iron.
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t21.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t22.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

i carefully cut away pieces from the stock frame and painted them. the front frame piece will be used to screw to the frame and snap the front cab to. it will still be removeable as it was originally. the small pieces including the tow hook (i plan on getting a trailer) are for detail.
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t23.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

these are practically all my components needed. it's taking longer than i wanted but it's coming together. i use a 12"x12"x1/4" stone sample (marble i think) from the office as my work surface to prevent myself from burning, cutting or otherwise damaging the table.
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t24.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

i used 1/8x1/8 brass tube for the rear axel mounts. i dremeled out a little over an 1/8 on each side, bent down one side. i will either solder them on tho the frame or drill screw holes and screw them on. i'm leaning toward screwing them on so the rear axel will be serviceable
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t27.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

using my dremel, i cut out the space for motor and spur gear in the bed. i double checked to make sure everything fits well. a tip i learned early in my career, measure twice-cut once
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t35.sized.jpg

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t36.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

i drilled holes in the frame and axel moounts to mount the axel mounts and body to the frame. i'm using size 90 x 3/8" brass machine screws and nuts, my lhs was out of washers, which i will have to go back for. this is a simple arrangement without using bearings and other performance enhancemet peices. i'll try to incorporate those in the next project
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t37.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t38.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

after drilling the holes in the frame and axel mounts, i carefully matched up the frame and the body to get the mounting holes where they are suposed to be. to my surprise, it all fit perfectly. however i got the wrong length screws (3/8"), they won't make it through the body, frame and axel mounts. i will have to go back to mylhs and get 1/2" screws. it's a nice clean look, which i tend to prefer in my work. it usually means more work but i'm more happy with the results. i'm trying to use screws instead of glue to make my TTTT easy to maintain and fix rahter than glue
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t39.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t40.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t41.sized.jpg

[Squishy]

What are you going to do to the body? I think it looked better green, but if you are going to put decals on it, that would be cool too.

[arch2b]

i like the green as well, but the 5 ton man is one of the most popular roco's used, along with the unimog. i wanted to make mine more personal and different. i have a 2nd man that i'm not sure what i'll do with. i plan on painting my unimog yellow. i'll probably get to it this weekend. i tested it on part of an old man. i also tested red. while it looks nice, it's harder to get a good cover of red though.

i originally wanted to make my current man a "un" man but now i have other ideas. we'll see soon. if i had the skills, i would weather it.

[arch2b]

tonight i made the front axel mounts out of 1/4"x1/4" brass angle. i trimmed the edges with my dremel cuting wheel so they would look more realistic and be less cumbersome under the front cab

the hard part was drilling the holes. you never have enough hands to hold and check alignments. i have a small pair of vice grips or channel locks. they help alot. i also had to replace the rear axel mounts because they didn't have the same clearance as the front axel. the 3 mistakes are in the top right.

everything fit well and i'm happy. now to drill holes in the other front axel mount peice. i'm short some screws/nuts/washers aslo, so it will have to wait.

everything looks nice and clean so far. plenty of work left to do.

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t46.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t47.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t48.sized.jpg

[Overlander]

ARCH2B,
Man, your project is really looking GREAT!! I have been away from the forum for a while and have only just now seen your project pics! I am really happy to see you carry through with it. It can be frustrating but, at the same time, it is facinating and rewarding.

Your decision to use screwed fasteners as opposed to soldering your rear axle has paid off when you had to adjust your rear axle. Also, the mis-calculation of the axles reinforces my point about at least sketching out your plan for your first truck.

Keep building, I'll get back to my 4x4 soon and keep you all posted. Possibly a "monster truck"!!

Again, your truck is looking fantastic!!!

-Todd:D

[cvictim]

It looks like your project is coming along great. I've just recently dicovered TTTT and hopefully will be building mine. Since i'm real new to TTTT knowing what parts and how touse them is gonna be real trial and error type work.

I was wondering if you could help with how to make an articulating front axle.

Thanx

[arch2b]

cvictim/overlander-
thanks, i'm trying my best to keep on it. i'm a perfectionist by nature, so it's taking me longer than previously thought. that and i'm trying to document the whole process in my album which i have condensed here in this thread. i give you much props overlander, it's hard to find time with a little one begging you to watch bug life for the umptenth time.

cvictim-
honestly, you would be better off asking overlander and killer. i got much of my inspiration from overlander. i pointed him to the german sites and next thing i know he has one in the works and he and everyone here have been very encouraging. how could i not take on the challenge? i too am new to modifiying rc electronics. it took a lot of asking questions and searching around to find everything and how it works. i just got in some parts i needed to go further with my project this week, so i should have made some good progress this weekend.

more than being cool, these things become objects of pride as well. theres something rewarding about taking a collection of parts/objects and making something really cool out of them. not to mention it's a great source of relaxation (when you're not searching for something dropped or breaking something) and "me time". those who are married and/or have kids understand.

i look forward to seeing your project develope here as well.

[arch2b]

i spent an hour or two today working on the electronics portion of the project.

this is the arrangement i need to fit the batteries in. took some fidgiting with for awhile to get it right. i used solid core copper wire for soldering the batteries together and 26 ga stranded wire for the rest of the hookup. more flexible wire is needed to wind thru the other stuff. i used a micro plug connector for a recharging connection.

now i have it all wired together including the on/off switch. the black and red wires will hookup to the speed controller i plan on craming in the front cab.

a quick check to see that it all fits after spending an hour or two trying to hold and solder these small things. i plan on painting on plastidip to cover all the soldering points.

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t52.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t54.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t55.sized.jpg

[Overlander]

Looks good.

Have you had any luck with the servo/ESC?

-Todd

[arch2b]

overlander-
that's on my to do list for tomorrow! i have to go out and get the resistor killer was talking about for the speed controller upgrade he posted about. that will finish the electronics part of the project.

posting my questions in a better thread.
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=91063#post91063

[arch2b]

waiting to get anwers on some last minute questions on the s.c. work.

in the meantime, soldered the lead wires on the motor and a micro plug connector, with 26 ga stranded copper wire, so the motor is detachable from the speed controller. (always use heaat shrink tubing to cover soldering points where ever possible.)

finished the recharging cable that will hook to the charger. i used 22 ga solid core copper wire (same as used to solder the batteries together)

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t60.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t59.sized.jpg

[killer]

Originally posted by arch2b
waiting to get anwers on some last minute questions on the s.c. work.

[arch2b]

killer-
thanks, i think thats about as clear as it can be!

[arch2b]

ok, with killer's idiot proof directions;) , i finshed the servo / speed controller conversion.

this was easy to do with killer's help. i only wish radio shack had micro resistors.

replacing the motor lead is alittle more difficult as the lead points are bery close together. your soldering skills will be tested on the servo/speed controller conversion. i think mine have gotten pretty good. it helps i filed down my soldering iron tip to a sharper point.

take great care soldering the motor leads and the leads from the battery! especially the battery, because if you don't you'll smoke the pcb and have to start over on a new one:(
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t62.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t63.sized.jpg

[Overlander]

Have you tested it? How does it work?

[arch2b]

your going to laugh when you read this but here (http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9881) it is...

[arch2b]

play hookie today, so i got a few things done...

the rear of the rx tells you which plugs are signal(white)/positive(red)/negative(black). make sure you plug the servo and speed controller in correctly.

following killers instructions;) , steering servo should be in slot 1, speed controller should be in slot 2

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t66.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t67.sized.jpg

[arch2b]

i drilled the mounting holes for the second front axel mount and attached. next is to cut the screws down with a cutting wheel on the dremel.

i drilled the front axel pivot mount holes. this was not easy. one hole came out slightly larger than the other but works fine.

i had to drill out the shaft hole in the faller front axel to fit the hex head machine screw i'm using to mount it. next is to cut down this screw with the cutting wheel as well.

with both axels mounted, it looks good! the front axel ended up slightly lower than the rear axel but i doubt anyone will notice.

the range in suspension travel turned out to be better than expected. since i used deep rectangular stock framing, the suspension travel is a little less while turning as the wheels rub on the frame some. i tried to keep it as close to stock as possible, now i know why other have higher ride heights...
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t68.sized.jpg

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t69.sized.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t70.sized.jpg

[Overlander]

Dude, that's awesome!

That last picture looks familiar somehow.:D

I have trouble with the tires rubbing on the body in a turn, not on the frame though.

I think it is just great that you are doing this and that you are doing an excellent job too. An old man once said to me about craftsmanship, "someone is always looking at your work".

I think you have overcome many challenges like working with limited rescources. Also, I think having to adapt a very small plastic axle to work with your design and not to destroy it in the process is a major feat!

Keep going!

-Todd

[me and me lude]

awesome, although i still don't quite understand what you did to make the front and rear axles...
also are there any benefits of a frame chassis than just a solid one?

[arch2b]

no, in fact it's probably alot easier to make a flat one;) i got the bright idea to make it as close to original as i could:p . means alot of work...

the rear axel is the stock roco axel with faller spur gear (as soon as i can get it off the stock faller axel).

the front axel is off the faller vehicle as well.

i don't know if i answered your question...

i plan on getting a front axel from tttt parts for my next one. the faller's are too expensive...can do it much cheaper.

[me and me lude]

sorry i wasn't clear,
how did you make those little rear axle mounts?
now i realise your front axle is from the faller truck

hmm... also do you use tube or solid brass rectangles

[killer]

:ö: great job Arch! ;), your truck's looking great!

[killer]

Originally posted by arch2b
.

this was easy to do with killer's help. i only wish radio shack had micro resistors.



:ö:there are some micro resistors you can find/salvage on some old cellphone, computer parst(souindcard, video card etal), but make sure to find the right resistor (with 2.2k ohm or 5.6k ohm)

[arch2b]

Originally posted by me and me lude
sorry i wasn't clear,
how did you make those little rear axle mounts?
now i realise your front axle is from the faller truck

hmm... also do you use tube or solid brass rectangles

to make the rear axel mounts, i cut a scetion of 1/8"x1/8" brass tube. i dremeled out with a cutting wheel alittle over an 1/8" of an inch of each side leaving a c channel shape. i bent the top flange down on both sides, and drilled holes to screw to the frame on either side. then drilled a hole for the axel to pass through.

i use rectangle and square tubes.

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/t27.sized.jpg

[me and me lude]

what's a "c channel shape"?

[killer]

Originally posted by Overlander
Have you tested it? How does it work?

:ö:Arch,

i'd like to inform you that, the very first time you turn your on your upgraded esc, you'll notice that the motor will spin fast, at first, don't worry about that, what you have to do, is adjust the throttle trimmer ti'll the motor stops spinning, that'll be the your esc's "0 point", and that will be your first and last time to trim your throttle (that manner) unlike the way you will dial/trim if you will use a resistor trimmer, you'll do a just a few click on trimmer the next time you turn on your truck, why?, servo converted esc is so sensitive to slight movement on your throttle trigger/stick, everytime you pull the throttle and release it, there is a slight angle that is still left which can be fixed while your finger is still on the throttle, but these, you will not notice that your throttle trigger was pushed a little when you kept your tx from it's storage, or when you pull it out from the box, it's either forward or reverese, these is sensed by the esc, so when you turn it on you have to trim it just a little bit ;) "on your tx".

-æ

[arch2b]

killer- thanks for the info...don't have the ps to my charger yet so i have a dead battery pack:( .

[arch2b]

i got my custom decals back from tinyrc...man did they come out nice! as usual, an autobot symbol ends up on all my projects...

even the custom washington dc tags came out nice!

i went for the rally support vehicle look...it turned out better than i had hoped...helped that i didn't rip any of the decals! it takes a steady hand and tweasers to do this

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/T100.sized.jpg

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/T101.sized.jpg

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album70/T102.sized.jpg

[killer]

:ö:

Arch,

i like the autobots logo.. :cool:
so, were you able to charge your batteries now?.. :)

-æ

[arch2b]

waiting for your phone charger tutorial;)

[truckian]

So is it front or rear or all wheel drive? Pics of the bottom would be helpful:)