What Micro RS4 motors will work in a DRR

[gopedr13]

:confused: zztbo
I was wondering what micro rs4 motors will fit into the DRR without heavy modification.
The motors i am looking at are:
orion:
big block
micro core
and elite modified

Peak:
chubby and
turbo coreless
also which would be fastest and best value
oy yea also how much improvement will the abc 180 or mod motor from dynamite give me

[rockfshr]

This is just for info not sure if they would work but here it goes, bought some new tooth brushes yesterday, the battery powered colgate ones to replace two of the same that needed replacing,anywho I was curious as to what motor was in them that would fit into such a small area well low and behold its a ff 180sh motor, frame is identical to my orion stock 180. not sure if these would run the same but im gonna maybe give it a try as I now have two of them. LOL you never know they might kick butt.

[Scar]

All those motors fit.

I personally like the Micro mod motor.

[Hicountry]

I use the core motor. Works well. There might be a faster more powerful motor out there but we do not need it. You spend the rest of your time searching for traction.

[ag04]

I use the micro modified, and I'm satisfied with the results for now. I'm thinking better, smaller esc and corless....... but that would get expensive. My first priority would be carbon fiber chassis, and all bearings.

ag04

[avenan]

Bearings are a must. The CF chassis, however, I'm really wondering about its value. At this size, the only weight issue is the car being too light and lacking traction. The dual deck seems to limit chassis flex.

What would the benefit of the carbon fiber chassis be? (Besides looking pretty darn cool)

[Hicountry]

I agree avenan.

I am building my chassis set out of 2mm aluminum. I think the extra weight will help.

[ag04]

the benefits are a stonger lighter chassis, to make room for more cells, and other goodies, and to make weight not such a problem. the lighter chassis would give you more top end, and you could strategically place weights to simulate downforce as spoilers and ground efects on larger, faster cars. besides that, you would have the coolest looking mini in the town.

ag04

[fastboy]

adding weights to a car will not simulate downforce :(

weights mean the car accelerates slower,downforce wouldnt affect a car from a standing start

also the heavier the car the harder it is for it to change direction and brake and accelerate,downforce does the opposite except for acclereration at higher speeds.

a lot of mistakes ppl make is putting a lot of weight at the rear of the car,what this does is give it good traction at the rear(which is good)BUT..when you start to slide the car or lose the rear end it is very hard to stop it completely spinning(thats why when it does spin out you always half spin then continue travelling backwards)..this is called polar momentum,its like holding a tennis ball in your outsretched hand and spinning round,when you stop spinning the ball stops with you,try that with a bowling ball and you will have diffuculty stopping the ball continuing,the same effect it has on the rear of you car,the heavier it is,the harder to stop a spin.
try to get a good balance of the weight in the car,a little bias towards the rear but not too much.
dave
uk

[bigbamboo]

And you also don't want to much on the rear end as it lightens the front too much and you end up with reduced ability to steer effectively.

I noticed the ABC Sp motor is placed in front of the rear axle and the DRR is behind. This could also effect traction and cornering ability. I was wondering aloud to myself about running the motor 90degree's to the axle with a gearing system similar to that in a 1:1 scale Front engine-rear wheel drive. Wondering if it'd help the balance problem of the DRR.

Glad I stayed awake 50% of the time in HS physics class!

Bamboo

[avenan]

It *is* possible to convert the DRR to have the motor in front of the rear axle. Just flip the motor mounts, ream out the bearing holes, and pop some flanged 3x6 bearings in there. You'll need to flip around the tplate mount to not hit the motor at the shortest setting. Even then, the wheelbase will be significantly longer than stock. If you make your own tplate (or drill the existing one), though, the problem goes away, and you can get a reasonable wheelbase.

I'll take pictures if anyone is confused.

[Hicountry]

Thanks fastboy.

I new I wanted to center my extra weight for traction. That is why I wanted to use an aluminum chassis instead of carbon fiber.

It is true that a lighter car lets you move the ballast around, but with this much motor and battery I think I will still be able to use extra weight. Unfortunatly can add to much weight.

Stock this car was easy to set up. Now it is a real challenge!

[avenan]

Hicountry, you hit it on the head -- with these cars, such a miniscule percent of its already light weight is in the chassis. Most of the weight is in the motor and batteries. That's why it seems to me that CF is a waste.

Mind you, my 1/10 pancar is CF. There it makes sense to me.

[fastboy]

there is a problem when mounting a motor down the center of the car,probably wouldnt affect these little ones too much.

if the motor is mounted same way as say a mini x..when you snap the throttle open very quickly,because of the way the motor is positioned you will get a slight rocking of the car..best way to see would be to try it without the pinion on,i know my old 1/10 offroad buggy (ttech predetor) was shaftmounted with central motor and it always wanted to twist in the air off big jumps.
same as i said.im not too sure wether it would be an issue,but the lighter the car and softer the suspension,the more the effect.

[bigbamboo]

Right, with the motor lying perpendicular to the path of movement, you could get changes due to the gyro effect of the engine. I don't know of any way to adjust for that effect - just as you said, it is worse when the car is in the air - shouldn't be that big of a problem for road racing.

The biggest benefit of the motor this way would allow for something closer to independant suspension on the rear of the DRR. But is this all worth it? I don't know how cost vs performance would work out. Maybe if we were racing for registration papers or bragging rights! Or one wanted to make a pre-runner sort of vehicle for rallies.

Bamboo

[ag04]

I'm sorry you guys, I said that waaaaay tooo fast, and didn't think about it but for a fraction of a second.

the lighter chassis would give you more top end, and you could strategically place weights to simulate downforce as spoilers and ground efects on larger, faster car.

If I would have thought about it, then I would have realized what I was saying. I'll be more careful next time.

ag04

[kev71H]

I LOVE my ORION coreless motor in my DRR..smooooth with my GM V6 ESC