My First Impressions

[Crash Rehven]

I got my Mini-x today!!! hurrah!

ok, here's what I think about the mini-x so far (after about an hour of driving and a couple hours of tinkering):

First off, the way the batteries are mounted into the body sucks. I probably spent 20 minutes trying to get the stupid little screws into the stupid little posts with my stupid little screwdriver.
Another gripe... the flourescent/neon butt-ugly paint job that came with the body. The problem... it's a but-ugly flourescent neon body.

ok... that's about it for the gripes.:D

I really enjoyed driving the mini-x... the handling on it is unbelievable... A bit slow compared to my tricked out mini-z... but it's already faster than a stock one. the generic little "radial tires" held up well on the parking lot pavement. I also like the fact that the set-up time for the car was minimal... cutting out the body (which I note is conveniently, and ingeniously also the packaging for the car) and plugging the crystal into my Perfex.

I can see the potential for further power/speed and as is it is already a fun to drive car. I may have to get some hop-ups soon... but that is currently going to have to take a back seat to my Micro RS4 that I still have to finish building.

I gotta go now, I have to go play with my new mini-x before I go to bed.:D

I'll give another report in a few days... after the excitement of a new toy wears off!

[irc]

Crash,

Do yourself a favor and get the 7.2 battery pack. The car will smoke your hoped up Z and you can through those silly battery holders away and use the 4 AAA for your Z. Let me know when you get the 6 cell battery pack and we can discuss instal lso you dont' smoke the electronics like I did on my first one!

[irc]

Oh yeah get a new NSX body ($5) when you oreder your battery and give it a good paint job!

[butler]

Oh and remember to clean behind your ears.


:p

[tinyrc]

Lol! IRC is right though - when you first get your Mini-X, and you run it with 4 cells, you think "hey, that's pretty cool." Then you pop in the 6-pack and you thing "Holy %#@&!!!" as it blows the doors off of nearby Micros! The 6-cell pack totally transforms the X into a completely different animal, and thanks to the 4WD, it's incredibly controllable even at high speed.

[irc]

Lol! Yeah when you get the Q tip out send me an e-mail and I can help with the whole ear thing to.....

[Ted theMechanic]

-when fitting six cells? Wont the electronics handle that?

Please explain what precautions you recommend. I think everyone would benefit from more knowledge 'bout it.

Thanks... :)

[tinyrc]

Ted, the 6 cell pack is made for use with the Mini-X:

http://tinyrc.com/shop/product.php?pid=35

It won't damage your electronics.

[irc]

When adding the 6 cell pack you must remove the center forward and back 2 battery contacts. The only contacts remaining should be the forward 2 that the red & black wire connect to. I solder 2 small connections on my 6 cell to attach alligator clips from my peak charger to charge the pack at 1 amp. Ok I think IM confusing Myself It may be better explained on our site www.intrepidrc.com under "set up tips" Really it's not an advertisement!!!

jeff

[ksavage68]

Hey all,
well I have some bitcharg cars and they are so cool, and then I found this site and saw some of the 1/24 scale cars and started comparing. I finally decided on the Mini-x because of the cool 4wd chassis and compatiblility with 1/24 scale model car bodies (unlimited choices there). I ordered the RTR mini-x kit from Dinball.com. I hope they send it pronto, I'm dying to get started with it. I also ordered the 7.2volt battery from this site. It should be a cool ride. I like the ability to run the cars on my kitchen floor and other indoor places, I can't do that with my 1/10 scale cars.
I love the cool clear plastic chassis and parts, but I was wondering...does anyone know how to dye the plastic so that its a clear color? maybe boiling in food coloring?? this car seems like a great deal for the features and price. The other 1/24 scale cars cost as much without electronics..:p

[tinyrc]

Cool idea! You could try it with some of the non-critical parts such as the battery holder plates before doing the main chassis sections.

[irc]

I have done a few cars a few months ago and will post some pic's. Just use Rit dye in boilling water and give it 15-20min. Purple is the best color for this.

[ksavage68]

I will try it when i get my car and will post the results. I'm also trying to find some standard dye for R/C plastics, I have seen people dye white parts colors, might work for clear plastic too.
If anybody knows where to get regular plastic dyes please post it, thanks.
:confused:

[ksavage68]

Hey we posted at the same time, cool :D
IRC, where do ya get that Rit dye? mucho thanks man!

[irc]

I got the Rit Dye at fred Meyers. this is the purple color. The front diff holders are the stock clear color. Just pull the tronics and through the whole car in the dye. It looks trick because it stays translucent!

[ksavage68]

IRC, man that is a COOL looking Mini-x!!!! So the plastic held up fine in the hot water? I am real excited now, I don't know what color i will get just yet, but probably will be the purple. You say the other colors didnt do as good?

[tinyrc]

Wow IRC, it looks great!

[ksavage68]

I'm thinking about trying to do the chassis in one color and doing suspension arms and diff cases in another contrasting color. Would that be cool? Hat's off to ya IRC, wicked ride for sure! (I wanna grow up to be as cool as IRC..LOL) :D thanks for all the help, dudes!

[tinyrc]

ksavage68, cool idea! It might be cool to do a black or grey for the suspension to give it a CF kind of look.

[irc]

The plastic held up well and I tried almost all the available colors and found the purple and dark blue wourke the best. And IM not that cool IM just addicted to small scale RC cars.We were doing a test to build an IRC team car, Here are a few other colors.

[tinyrc]

Wow, I like the blue!

[irc]

Yeah the blue is my favorite and is going to be the team car color if I ever get a chance to build a few. That blue car is set up with the 2wd motor and man is it fast! IM running GPM foams for the Mini Z on it for traction! Hey how about a TRC team car in red???

[ksavage68]

I like them all!! I just got into the small scale Bitcharg and MiniX and I'm having a blast already, I was getting so bored with 1/10 scale. Now i gotta decide on a color for my MiniX, and that is a great idea about the black or gray dye on the suspension for the Carbon look. Hey how bout this? stick one end of chassis down in the dye then turn it around and dye rear end a contrasting color? so like fade from orange to yellow? or blue to purple? good yes?

:D

[ksavage68]

ooh oooh oohh.. this is what i may do with my car after getting the chassis dyed, I want to install several small LED bulbs around the chassis so when the car is running the lights come thru the color and shines on the ground like Neon lights on full size cars. whaddaya think?
:cool:

[kev71H]

I have a question about DURABILITY......


I am considering buying the Mini-x.......I have big concerns about its sturdiness.

I have just heard that the plastic used is "brital" Is this true? We run on a slot car track and hitting turns hard can be normal...and mini-zs break at times.

Concerns about the britalness of the plastic used in this car can be quite bothersome if this is true.....don't get me wrong..I probably still will buy one....BUT I would rather know if it is racable 'or at least AS DURABLE AS A REGULAR MINI Z)

PLEASE and UNBIAST OPINION....PLEASE.


Let me know.... Post here or email Kev71H@aol.com

[tinyrc]

Hey how about a TRC team car in red???

Wow, great idea! I think I might just have to try that!

Hey how bout this? stick one end of chassis down in the dye then turn it around and dye rear end a contrasting color?

Whoa, very cool idea - IRC, based on your experience, would this work well?

I want to install several small LED bulbs around the chassis so when the car is running the lights come thru

Cool! I'm thinking the blue chassis with blue LEDs!

I have just heard that the plastic used is "brital" Is this true?

kev71H, I think these comments were probably about the early prototypes that used a more brittle plastic. I run my X outdoors frequently and it's smashed into curbs with the 6-cell and never broken anything. I wonder if the boiling process described above affects the plastic, perhaps making it even stronger?

[kev71H]

so.........the Mini-x has evolved?

I assume the breakage comments I have heard in the past are true........No biggie...... But, the plastic compound has been changed for more sturdiness?

What is your basis for your answer about the durability TINYRC. Knowing that You have business in mind and I respect that but I would hardly rank you as Unbiast......(not to offend please)

** Boiling the chasis I would not think would help the duribility in the least as usually harshness as "boiling" temperatures breaks down more materials such as this as a rule RATHER THAN STRENGTHEN THEM.***

Please don't take the above comments as harsh or offensive at all. Looking for someone who has bought one of these and has put it through the ringer and who maybe has BROKE something..and what that may be......

EVERYTHING will break in time....just "when" or how is my curiousity.

Let me know.............THANKS TINYRC FOR YOUR INPUT. Looking for someone elses also...

*smile*:)

[irc]

As to dying both ends diffrent colors you could do this but remember it takes about 15 min to dye so I would make a hanger of some kind to hold half the car in. As to the plastic I can honestly say I have only broke a forward pinion gear and that was from hitting the wall head on. Also the reason it broke was the chassis flexed so much the pinion gear split in half!!! So I would say it is in no way brittle! Still if you are concerned the parts are very inexspensive as a whole chassis in only $5.

[tinyrc]

kev71H, no offense taken, I too look forward to seeing some other comments. What I meant about the boiling was that this technique is common in RC, and rather than making the plastic itself stonger, it makes the overall car stronger, or I suppose more resiliant is a better term, because it adds some flex to the compound. I haven't tried this with the X, so this is purely speculation.

[ksavage68]

I was just browsing around at Dinball.com and picking out some hop-up parts for my Mini-x and saw some cool alloy wheel sets for the mini-z but only some plastic rims for the Mini-x. Does anyone know if the rims are interchangable between the two cars? I know the tires are but havent a clue about rims yet. They got sets of 4 alloys for 16.00 or so, I really would like to have those. can anybody help? also I found some LED head/taillights for 5.90 that I'm getting. :D

[irc]

The alum wheels won't fit the X. Im sure some will be available soon. Start browsing around at tinyrc.com or intrepidrc.com for hop up's. You will find them all availble at a lower cost than dinball and you will be supporting this forum.

[kev71H]

LEDs???? for under 6 bucks?????? For your mini-z????? WIll they work for the F-1 chasis??? (I have the lexan body for the car.

[ksavage68]

yes the LED set should work with any car, you have to wire them in. they come with two clear and two red LED's, wire, and shrink sleeve. yes they are about six bucks or so at www.dinball.com.
Hey IRC, i checked out your site, and soon as its working I will order some hop-ups from ya. I wanna be a good supporter of this site ya know. :D as a side note I also saw an LED set with connectors already on it made for the Mini-Z at Dinball, I don't know if they will fit other cars but they didnt cost much either.

[ksavage68]

oh and IRC, when I meant "when the site is working" I meant the IntrepidRC site, not this one. :rolleyes: I've already ordered a couple things from the TinyRC site here and will likely be a regular customer. :D

[tinyrc]

ksavage68, FYI the IRC site is informational only - their products are sold through our shop - if you see anything in their parts list that you don't see here, let us know, and we'll get it for you. Thanks!

[ksavage68]

ok cool! thanks for the info TinyRC! :D

[irc]

Not sure why the site was not working but please do order through TRC as they are one of are largest dealers. We do have online ordering but would appreciate it if you supported this forum and the pricing is the same so please use are site for information on the X but give your cash to TRC! Also I was really just giving you a hard time I to order from Dinball but only items I can't get here in the States.:D

[Clique]

Hi, please offer your comments for the following questions:

Q1) I like the Mini-X for its price but worry that the all-plastic chasis and parts are easy to break and will end up having high ownership costs. Could anyone share his/her experience? I've seen the Dynamite Pocket Rocket pics showing its dual-deck fiberglass chasis, which looks to be durable and very well-designed.

Q2) I've seen in the Galleries the Mini-X RS ESC+Rx used in a RS4 Micro and other mini R/C cars. Does any one have the spec of the Mini-X RS ESC and what kind of modified motors it may accept (withing firing the ESC)?

Any info will be appreciated.

[tinyrc]

Clique, the Mini-X isn't at all brittle. Take a read through this entire thread and you'll see testimonials about the abuse it can take. Good question about the RS set - IRC, do you have the specs?

[irc]

These are the specs I found on the speed controll and motor. I hope it helps.

Operating voltage 3.6V - 7.2V
Current (no load) 70ma
Max continuous current: 8A

Motor 70 turn

[irc]

Also the plastic is not brittle! where did this rumour start from!

[Crash Rehven]

The plastic is pretty tough!

I've driven mine off the dining room table onto the linoleum floor many times... no damage yet!

[kev71H]

Rumour..................

Hmm....I have always heard that the mini-x is a bit brittle. bad press????

They don't look the sturdiest........maybe this may be the reason for the rumour.


Its hard to tell.

[irc]

Could just be the way the clear chassis looks?

[tinyrc]

I think it's a combination of the look and the bad reviews that the prototype version got. The real X is tough as 1/24 scale nails!

[irc]

Like I said before the only part I have broke is the fwd pinion gear. It's possible the bad rap was about the car body which is not that flexable and will crack up front after only a few head on crashes. The only way to help prevent this besides not hitting the wall (which I can't seam to figure out) is to line the nose of the body with shoe goo. :eek:

[Btman]

I have been running a mini-x for over a month in my basement. It has hit the wall hard several times and I expected something to break. So far nothing has broken or cracked except the original body cracked badly from the impact! I own several small scale RC cars and have owned several RC cars in the last 20 years or so. The mini-x so far has been one of the best built RC cars I have ever owned. Don't let the clear chassis and relatively low cost fool you. Even if something did break, replacement parts are a bargain for this car. This car is extremely durable when you consider the price and how much more sophiscated the chassis is compared to most small scale RC cars ( keep in mind that it has 4 wheel shaft drive, dual adjustable ball differentials, and 4 wheel independent suspension). Besides the handling sets new standards for this class on slippery surfaces!

[ksavage68]

yeessssssssss....woohoo it came today finally..and I am blown away with this little thing. I got the RTR version and a spare wheel set, and the 7.2 volt six cell pack. it has four NiMh batteries already installed and even had a good charge on it. It seems to work pretty well and is fairly quick with just four cells. The car came with a nice RX-7 body. I've spend the last two hours checking things over and only found one fault so far, if your running and turn sharp, the right front dogbone shaft ejects itself from the car. I think I will put some springs behind the big end close to the diff to keep the shafts tight, that should solve it.
One other thing I cant quite figure out, I was messing around with the speed control settings and can't get it set like it was. out of the box, the red LED lit when trigger was forward and green LED was lit when any reverse trigger was used. I got to messing with the button on the ESC to set the thing again (I used to do my Novak so I know how it goes)..anyways, now after i reset it the red LED only barely lights at full throttle, and green LED lights up when any reverse at all is used. The speed seems fine both ways so maybe its ok? the VERY minimal instructions for setting the ESC are not a whole lot of help, I've tried doing as they said but still cant get the red LED to light when any forward throttle is used. Can somebody help? I know its not the cars fault, so i gotta give this thang a "9" out of "10" score, wonderful car and I highly recommend it!! Now I just gotta get that color dye and get this thing colored.. :D

[tinyrc]

ksavage68, you mention that it came with 4 cells and they had a partial charge - did you get a chance to try the 6 cell pack get? Because that will really blow you away!

[ksavage68]

nah, haven't had a chance to install the new sixpack cells yet, probably will do that tomorrow. I won't be able to really get down on it cuz of the ejecting dogbone issue, gotta get some springs to hold them in. I'll probably order a good several spare sets because i know they'll get lost eventually. I'm real excited about getting the new batteries wired up. How do most people do it? hardwire and charge with alligator clips? or use small deans plug?
I think the fourcell batteries came fully charged because I have run mildly for ten minutes on my kitchen floor and they aint dead yet. I just ordered a bearing set for it from this site, so that will be cool when they come. I assumed it came with bearings (think I read it somewhere) but sorry to say it didn't. no biggie..still cant beat the price for RTR 4wd. Also, another thing I'm curious about is this: there is a plastic bar holding down the front end of the motor, but none for rear at the rear pinion. There is two holes where it would mount but no bar there. Will this be a problem? Seems to be holding fine as is, just wasnt sure if this is right.

[ksavage68]

one other question Tinyrc, I have a Tekin peak charger with adjustable charge rate from 0.5 to 10 amps plus trickle mode. What setting would you recommend I charge the six-cell on?
Thanks dude! I will post pics of my car as soon as i get the body painted this weekend.
:D

[irc]

Glad to here you like the X. Try to tighten the ball ends that hold the front wheel hub. This should close the gap from the diff to the wheel hub so the bone wont fly out.Also you can limit the steering travel by instaling a screw in the bottom hole of the steering arm. The screw will hit the chassis and not allow full steering.Or you can adjust the steering rate on you transmitter if it has that option? The motor holder is ok, they all have only the back one installed. Make sure you remove all battery contacks except the two with esc wires on them when installing the 6 cell. We solder leads on the + & - on the 6 cell and hook aligator clips to them from the charger.I use a peak charger for nimh batteries and charge at 1-2 amps. When you set up the esc pull the trigger in the forward position not quite full throttle and hold it untill the red light comes on. This will assure full throttle.

Jeff

[tinyrc]

Looks like IRC answered all your questions, but just to clear this one up:

I just ordered a bearing set for it from this site, so that will be cool when they come. I assumed it came with bearings (think I read it somewhere) but sorry to say it didn't.

This was a promotion that we were running on the first batch of kits - it's not the standard Mini-X setup, but a special bonus, so you won't get this if you order abroad.

RE the cells, go for the tabs/alligator clips, and I wouldn't go over 1A myself. I can't wait to hear about how much more you love it with the 6-cell since you're already so impressed with 4!

[ksavage68]

well thats ok, I don't mind paying a tad extra for bearings. I bought several model kits to use the bodies from..i got Ferrari F40, Back to the Future Delorean, and am currently looking at a lime green Hemi Cuda. and i also have the stock lexan RX7 body.
I'm thinking to go with the Delorean with my LED light kit and some blue LED lights for "fluxing effect". think we can go 88MPH?
I love this car and also it being 1/24 scale..so many bodies to choose from. I will post lotsa pics soon.:D

[ksavage68]

and thanks Tinyrc and IRC for all the help! you guys are great!

:p

[tinyrc]

No problem! Enjoy your Mini-X, and post your pics when you've got them! We can set you up an album in the Gallery to display all of your models when they're done if you like.

[irc]

No problem. TRC sorry for not giving you the chance to answer those questions:rolleyes: It's starting to sound like Im a now it all:o Lesson learned!!! Plus you spell way better than I.

[tinyrc]

Plus you spell way better than I.

Pun intended?! ("Im a now it all" -> "I'm a know it all") !!! ;) :D :p LOL! Adding to the hilarity, we posted replies at almost the exact same time!

[irc]

SOOOO strange TRC look at the times of the last 2 post of ours!

[irc]

OK we did it again! IM freeked and will be loging off for a while:eek:

[tinyrc]

LOL!!! :D

[Clique]

Q1) Would a NiCad peak charger w/ adjustable amp work on those NiMh batteries?

Q2) If not, can some one recommend some chargers for use w/ Mini-X's 6-cell please?

Thanks for any help.

[tinyrc]

Technically you could use a non-NiMH charger on the pack, just charging at one amp and keeping an eye on it. But I would recommend you get a charger that is intended for NiMH; the Superbrain 959 is a great charger for the money.

[ksavage68]

When charging up the six-cell pack, I'll be using alligator clips. Will this harm the ESC since its still connected to the batteries? Do you solder tabs to the battery pack and use a Deans type connector or just hardwire and use the stock spring connector. I just dont wanna fry the ESC. I did some work on my Mini-X yesterday, I removed the front dogbones that tended to pop out in a sharp turn and put some teeny weeny peices of that foam stuff to act as a spring then reinstalled the dogbones. viola! no more poppin dogbones! works great now and i can get maximum steering.

[tinyrc]

ksavage68, I use two little charging leads on my 6-cell (thanks IRC!), but remove it from the car when charging; I just want to make sure that you have gone through the steps to convert from 4 to 6-cell, as the above statement sounds like you might not have - you did remove the 4-cell battery retention springs, right? The 6 cell pack is assembled, so the only contacts you need are from the pack to the ESC. Post some pics of your dogbone saver in another thread if possible!

[ksavage68]

thanks TinyRC, I started the six-cell conversion and stopped after removing the unneeded spring contacts, but wasnt sure how the power leads were done. On my 1/10 scale cars i use sermos connectors and remove the packs from the car for charging. I will likely solder on leads to the pack and use a Deans plug for convenience. But I'll have to get a plug and new NiMH charger before my battery conversion is complete. It had pretty good pep with just 4 cells, I'm dying to get this thing running on sixcells. Now I'll have to wait till i can get to my hobby store. I will be posting pics within a few days and will post steps of the dogbone fix too.

[tinyrc]

Yep, adding a Deans or similar connector will be a great convenience. I'm looking forward to you getting it all set up, as the 6-cell is going to blow you away!

[ksavage68]

Thanks for the charger recommendations TinyRC, I just ordered me one and some Deans plugs. Man, you got me so excited here, tell me one thing..how much faster would you say it is on six cells? like 20% faster? 30%? I'm dying to know.

[irc]

I would guess The jump from 4.8 to 7.2 Volts gives you 50% more power! What do you think TRC?

[tinyrc]

Yep, I would say at least that! It feels twice as fast even!

[Bez]

Man that 6 cell sounds impressive. Do you have any idea of an actual speed in mph with the 6 cell in? What about the stock speed?

And whilst I'm here I thought I would ask about chargers. If I was to get a Mini-x, what kind of charger would I need, and how much would the charger cost? The Mini-x runs on AAA's doesn't it?

What are the different tire sets? What does Tire Set A, Tire Set B etc mean?

How much would it cost to completely ballrace everything on the car? I understand that with the $85 car kit you don't get the bearings?:( . How many bearings are needed for the wheel hubs? Is it 8? Or is it only 4 for a Mini-x? On 1/10th scale it is usually 8... And is it 4 bearings needed for the diffs, 2 for each diff?

Sorry for all the questions! Hehe..

[ksavage68]

Hey Bez,
I'm lovin my mini-x, its a great car so I gotta insist you get ya one man :D heed my wisdom on this one, hehe. yeah the 6cell battery makes a HUGE difference, when i was running four alkalines AAA in it, it was fairly slow. Now its like twice as fast probly fast as a stock Tamiya 1/10 scale car, it will definitely be a handful in smaller rooms. :D Now on to the answers to your questions, I bought a MRC SuperBrain 959 charger from TowerHobbies.com for around 50 bucks i think,it works great for the 6cell as you can adjust current down to 0.5 amp for charging.
The 6cell pack consists of 3 AAA per side connected by one wire. Youll have to solder on some wires and a plug and solder a plug to the ESC and charger. (I used Deans plugs available at Tower Hobbies). I just used strips of clear packing tape to tape the batteries in place. The RTR Mini-x doesnt come with any bearings (unless you buy from TinyRC here,in which case it will come with them) it takes 6 bearings (3 packs) for the wheel hubs, (only one per side in front hubs but two per side in rear hubs) and four bearings (two packs) for diffs, two in the front and two in the back. As for the tire sets, the A,B,C etc. only designates tread pattern, one is slicks (that comes with the car) and the other three have different tread. go to Dinball.com to see pics of the parts there, then come back here and buy it.. :D most all the parts to the car down to the A-arms and chassis and motor parts are available for 6.00 or less. Hopefully TinyRC will carry all of the replacement parts soon. you listenin Tiny?? :rolleyes:

[Bez]

Thanks for all the info ksavage68. In another thread TRC said there was going to be a cheap charger available on this site that charges the 6 cell, I can't afford a good charger I only have so much money to spend.

[fatdoggy]

You could try using a nitro reciever pack charger to charge a 6 cell mini-x pack. You can buy then cheap with a reciever plug(there wall units), you could just change the plug and try it. There usually only a couple of bucks and it should work. But it would take quite a while to charge.....

[tinyrc]

Bez, looks like most of your questions have already been answered, but:

-The $85 version does come with full bearings if you buy from us; it doesn't if you buy elsewhere though, this is an exclusive special bonus.
-Here's a link to the charger previously mentioned, perfect for the 6-cell:

http://tinyrc.com/shop/product.php?pid=107

ksavage68, yep, we'll continue to expand our stock of X parts, should have the entire line soon - and if you ever need something you don't see in the Shop, email us and we'll get it for you! :)

[irc]

That is a great charger! I have been using one just like it for 6 months with no problems. To charge the 6 cell X pack I put the charger on 1 amp and press start!

[Bez]

That would be a good charger for me to get. The only concern I have now is the plug socket that goes into the wall. I think they are different and I think that the mains power supply in the USA is a different voltage. :( :( :(

[irc]

This unit runs off of 12 volts. Any 12 volt battery will work or a converter. I use a unit made to jump start cars with dead batteries (like all the ones at a used car lot) this works good because it is portable and it comes with a charger. I think they cost about $50.

[ssstraub]

Since I've seen it mentioned in this thread, I just feel compelled to warn about buying from Dinball.com.

I bought an ebay listed Bit Char-G from them.
They shipped it on 7/30/02.
It is 8/25/02 and I still don't have it.

From my email conversations with them it seems like I am going to be SOL if my package never shows up. The USPS won't attempt to track a lost parcel until 30 days have passed. I will be doing that, but it's unclear if dinball is going to do ANYTHING about this situation.

This seems very unprofessional of a so-called "store."

I plan on creating a new thread about this when I find out the results of the tracking.

[Bez]

ssstraub, sorry to hear that. I used to think Dinball's prices were really low, but then I found out that they make up for this by charging high shipping costs.

PS. I'm not getting any mini RC at all now. I found out today that I can get a PS2, and pay my parents back the rest of the money when I get a job. I will probably still get a mini RC, but it is now going to have to wait until I get a job. I think I know what I will get aswell - an ABC DTM SP, after seeing that movie of it going 56mph I have to get one! I am going to ask my friend if he wants to go to the job agency with me to find some weekend work. If I can't get a job now I will have to wait until the end of October to get this job I have already got lined up. So the sooner I get a job, the sooner I get a mini RC! Sorry to waste everyones time because I have asked a lot of questions! ;)